Rayp

Thanks Nigel, but on which engine and where does it screw to?

I have refurbished two Briggs & Stratton engines, a 5HP one from a Hayter 21, the other 7HP from an Osprey. I am left with this piece (see photos) and am at a loss as to which engine it came from and where on that engine it fits. Can anyone solve the mystery please?

A clever job!

Some time ago I purchased a Transdenser from Kirk Engines. This replaces the normal condenser and makes timing a doddle with no need to look through holes at hard to see timing marks. The Transdenser flashes when the engine is running and when my Tractor failed to start recently I noticed that the Transdenser lit but did not flash and I suspected it had malfunctioned. I emailed Kirk Engines with the problem and Dave Kirk responded by return suggesting the points were the problem but offering to test and replace the Transponder without question if it proved to have malfunctioned. Dave proved to be correct. I cleaned and reset the points (which were replaced when the Transdenser was fitted) with WD-40 electrical cleaner, but the problem remained. I, therefore, followed Dav's advice to test the Transdenser which showed that it had not malfunctioned. I returned to the points, rechecked the gap and cleaned them again with brake cleaner on a piece of paper and I'm glad to say the Tractor finally fired into action. I thought I would write this post as it is rare to experience such good service and to recommend Kirk Engines if anyone is seeking the Tractor parts which it supplies and many of which are not readily available elsewhere.

Hi Richard - thank you for your help and advice, once again. I hope you are well. I'm finally getting round to a few things now I'm in 'lockdown'. Regards

I have a Hayter Osprey engine but can find no trace of an engine number and believe the 'engine cowl' may have been replaced at some time. The Briggs Handbook suggests it may be a 170702 engine type 1201-1 and the Briggs Site seems to suggest that the gasket set I need is part number 590777 (794209). Can anyone help in confirming this is the correct set or advise me otherwise.

Nice to see so many different machines. I like the 'different to the normal' Alan sickle mower.

Awesome!!!

Yes the handle does have a lever to engage the head. Apart from the parts diagram any help with belt fitting etc. is non-existent. I have looked again at the machine (which is very basic under the cover!) and have found a small anchor point and a hole which I now think are the spring anchors. Thanks for your reply.

The belt broke on my wheeled trimmer and having replaced it I am struggling to locate the location for the ends of the return spring (part no. 15 on the attached parts diagram). Can anyone help please?

Very interesting - never seen another!

I like your old Lorry!

Some great vehicles and bikes.

I think its a nutcracker!

I found the Hydrate 80 worked well removing rust and leaving clean steel. After removing the cleaned parts I washed them in water and dried them immediately with a hot air gun. I did use Electrox and waited the 96 hours before applying a topcoat, but found later that the top coats were easily rubbed a=or chipped-off leaving the Electrox coating intact. In fact, I wrote to Bilt Hamber when the problem first appeared, after I had finished painting the Deck and their reply is below. Needless to say I did not remove the lot and merely treated the affected 'spots'. " Electrox is and organically bound zinc rich coating that does not need to be abraded before over coating. I think the solvents at temperature with low air movement has caused this problem. Flat back and reapply, but the limit of adhesion for the new paint will be that of the flatted enamel you apply to unless you remove the lot."

Thanks Westie - I used IHC (i.e. International Harvester) red, which I got from The Vapormatic Company Ltd at www.vapormatic.com. Following advice I used zinc primer on many parts before realising it did not take the final coat as well as I had expected. I later used etch primer which I got better results from and all cleaned parts were first treated with Hydrate 80 (rust killer and barrier system) to ensure that any rust in crevices, pits etc. was rendered harmless. Regards

A great job and photos. Did you spray or handpaint the engine?

I have finally finished refurbishing my C 160 Automatic and mowing deck. The paintwork is not up to show standard but it shouldn't rust and it is intended to be a 'working tractor'. IU am no engineer and the whole project has bee a steep learning curve for me, having never sprayed or completely dismantled a machine before. If I ever attempt another it should be like shelling peas as I think I must have already encountered 90% of potential problems. I'm still working on the photography/uploading - the last photo should be the first.

My neighbour would have bought the tree and cut it down and taken it away, but it would have been a BIT TOO FAR Away!!!

I'll get back to you as soon as I have had a chance to double check

Where abouts are you? I may have a spare gearbox.

Hi Richard, I just wondered if you had ever tried deox-c on small rusted parts like the silencer/muffler. I've found it is brilliant for converting rust even inside inaccessible parts and interior seams. Ray

I no longer have the hedgetrimmer, but I do have the leaflet for it and am attaching a copy.

Nice machine but how do you reverse it?

Its a great machine in lovely condition.