Rayp

Some great vehicles and bikes.

I think its a nutcracker!

I found the Hydrate 80 worked well removing rust and leaving clean steel. After removing the cleaned parts I washed them in water and dried them immediately with a hot air gun. I did use Electrox and waited the 96 hours before applying a topcoat, but found later that the top coats were easily rubbed a=or chipped-off leaving the Electrox coating intact. In fact, I wrote to Bilt Hamber when the problem first appeared, after I had finished painting the Deck and their reply is below. Needless to say I did not remove the lot and merely treated the affected 'spots'. " Electrox is and organically bound zinc rich coating that does not need to be abraded before over coating. I think the solvents at temperature with low air movement has caused this problem. Flat back and reapply, but the limit of adhesion for the new paint will be that of the flatted enamel you apply to unless you remove the lot."

Thanks Westie - I used IHC (i.e. International Harvester) red, which I got from The Vapormatic Company Ltd at www.vapormatic.com. Following advice I used zinc primer on many parts before realising it did not take the final coat as well as I had expected. I later used etch primer which I got better results from and all cleaned parts were first treated with Hydrate 80 (rust killer and barrier system) to ensure that any rust in crevices, pits etc. was rendered harmless. Regards

A great job and photos. Did you spray or handpaint the engine?

I have finally finished refurbishing my C 160 Automatic and mowing deck. The paintwork is not up to show standard but it shouldn't rust and it is intended to be a 'working tractor'. IU am no engineer and the whole project has bee a steep learning curve for me, having never sprayed or completely dismantled a machine before. If I ever attempt another it should be like shelling peas as I think I must have already encountered 90% of potential problems. I'm still working on the photography/uploading - the last photo should be the first.

My neighbour would have bought the tree and cut it down and taken it away, but it would have been a BIT TOO FAR Away!!!

I'll get back to you as soon as I have had a chance to double check

Where abouts are you? I may have a spare gearbox.

Hi Richard, I just wondered if you had ever tried deox-c on small rusted parts like the silencer/muffler. I've found it is brilliant for converting rust even inside inaccessible parts and interior seams. Ray

I no longer have the hedgetrimmer, but I do have the leaflet for it and am attaching a copy.

Nice machine but how do you reverse it?

Its a great machine in lovely condition.

You should be working on the Space Programme with your miniscule accuracy and attention to detail. The casting looks like new - how did you get it to that standard?

Richard this was really informative and I look forward to seeing the completion of your miracle restoration!

It looks better than when it was new!

Encyclopaedic!!

Many thanks for your reply to my post. It may be possible to adapt your trailing seat, but I don't know how it would perform on what is fairly uneven ground having a roller instead of two wheels like the Hater model. How much are you asking for it. Regards Ray

Wanted a two wheeled trailed seat for a Hayter Twenty One. Some time ago I remember seeing that a Forum member had bought one and didn't what what it was for, but I can't remember who it was!

Thanks Richard and Wristpin. I will check the disc and blades as suggested and the transmission gearbox input pulley to see if I do have a two speed machine and will report back in due course.

I have finally reassembled the 21 and Wristpin was right! It no longer slips the clutch, but has only one speed fast!!! After 'running; and hanging on for 3 1/2 hours mowing I will have to try and buy a wheeled seat. The only problem I have with it now is vibration which loosens the nuts on the cover and height adjuster.

Another good job, but how did you drill those square holes?

Thanks Richard - this will make another useful addition to my 'library'

Thanks Wristpin. I was sure until I saw your reply. Following your post I have looked again at the Spare Parts Book again and can see that the nearest key (4295) to the Backplate is intended for the small sprocket and that key 1662 is the one for the backplate. I'll have to look more closely next time! Thank you Richard for looking through your stock and for the helpful Chart. I ordered a couple of keys from the Link you gave me and immediately after received Wristpin's reply highlighting the fact that I had incorrectly read the Spare Parts Book. At least if you ever need a key I may be able to help you from the two I have ordered.