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mattblack last won the day on April 16

mattblack had the most liked content!

About mattblack
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  1. I saw this at a small steam/vintage event yesterday and thought it may be of interest.
  2. Thanks, I hope the copper is soft enough to form a seal, but it won't be the end of the world if I have to find an alternative.
  3. Still plodding away on this... The engine is back together with home made gaskets and (cover your ears) a smear of gasket goo. I enquired about a head sealing ring, Cox and Turner had a slightly smaller on in stock but I decided to have a bash at making one. I got some 1.5mm thick copper, cut the centre out with a 50mm cutter in the bench drill and then cut the outside out with snips. After a session with the bench grinder it didn't look too bad. I temporarily refitted the engine on the frame to make tightening the head bolts easier. Carb stripped and given a good soak in brake cleaner. The air filter/choke has had a bash, it was jammed open and is missing the lever. I'm going to try to split it and repair it.
  4. Mixture too rich (adjustment)? Choke sticking partially closed? Dirt in carb stopping float needle shutting fully?
  5. Bore was cleaned up with a flap wheel as suggested, followed by a sanding pad with plenty of maintenance spray. When I cleaned up the head the lack of head gasket was revealed... there isn't one, this seal sits in the recess in the head. But I only found out after I had damaged it with the wire wheel. Not sure what's going on with spark plug, this is the one that was fitted (which looks like one for a Ford Pinto engine) but the hole isn't fully threaded anyway. Piston cleaned up.
  6. Had to remove the contact breaker cam to get the crank out but there wasn't much room between the cam and the crankcase, luckily I had an old puller that I could 'modify' to get it started. The remains of the gaskets were well gummed on, but I remembered a trick from when I first started in the motor trade. ...Followed by a sheet of 150 grit wet and dry laid flat on the bench with plenty of lubrication.
  7. That's insane. Brilliant, but insane! Surely it's got to be called the Wheelmoose?
  8. You've just answered my next question...!
  9. That's a good idea about the flap wheel, I have a flexible drive so may be able to do it with a standard wheel. I did wonder if the rings would be an off the shelf part. The crankcase bushes seem good, with no movement that I can feel. My biggest concern is the movement between the gudgeon pin and piston. At the end of the day I will be happy to get it running again, It's not like it's going to be a 'working' engine running on load for hours.
  10. That picture of Irikah in the stubble would make a beautiful painting.
  11. And it's only ever had 2 new heads and 3 new shafts... (Sorry, couldn't resist...)
  12. Well, with the points cleaned and set I pulled it over with the rope and got a good spark So I delved in deeper... Piston has some damage to the edge of the crown, and there is a lot of play in the little end (between the piston and gudgeon pin) No major scoring on the bore The head gasket was this homemade paper affair and not doing much, I would imagine that I will have to get one made unless I can lay my hands on some copper sheet and do it myself? Is it worth (or even a good idea) to hone the bore if I re-use the same piston rings?
  13. Welcome to MoM, pictures would be great! I would try Meetens for parts, I have had good service from them. Funnily enough I have been reading this thread about re-winding coils: https://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=117351
  14. Not very pretty, but it worked. I will clean and set the points and check for a spark and take it from there.
  15. Split into it big 'lumps' today. Looks like I need to make a puller that picks up on the starter pulley holes to remove the flywheel (at least it's keyed so no faffing around with the timing, unlike a certain other engine make...)
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