DustyB

I just rubbed it on the stone with my finger tip.

Take a small wire and bend a small hook on it. See if you can feel the depth of each of these tubes. Only the tube that goes all the way to the bottom connects to the carb. The other two, shorter tubes, provide a vent to allow you to fill both sides of the tank.

2" overall length

I took the flywheel off to clean the points. When I reinstalled the flywheel I was tightening the nut with about a 6" long combination wrench. Suddenly it didn't feel like it was tightening anymore or like something was yielding. I didn't know the torque spec but was nowhere near 90 inch lbs. Anyway I fired it up and it ran fine for a minute or so while I measured voltage and frequency and then the engine quit. I noticed the flywheel had slipped and sheared the aluminum key. After making the new key I reinstalled it and used my torque wrench, this time set to 90 inch lbs, and the stud broke at about 70 inch lbs. Examining the break, from the color I could tell it had been partially broken long before I got the generator. Since then I have drilled and threaded the crank for a stud. The crank seems to be hardened and is difficult to drill but I got sufficient depth to install the threaded stud. Tomorrow I'll probably try reinstalling the flywheel and running it again.

I sheared my flywheel key on my Tiny Tiger a couple of days ago when the flywheel came loose. No damage done since it just slipped on the shaft and quit running. Anyway I found these Hillman keys, steel not aluminum, at the local farm store. The size is right except the thickness. Ten minutes under my thumb on a sharpening stone fixed that, reducing from 2mm thick to 1.5mm. A pack of three was around $2.50.