DustyB

I just rubbed it on the stone with my finger tip.

I made an aluminum base plate based on DustyB's picture provided. Thanks again DustyB!  I used an old scrap speed limit sign I had and cut it out of that.  Believe it or not, I was able to find locally, NOS 10-32 Palnuts.  It was an all or none purchase so now I have around 80-100 of these...   I was not able to find any feet that were close to original so I decided to use what I had, and since I have extra Palnuts,  I used them as fasteners on the feet as well. Not correct as original, but it all matches nicely and I think it looks good...
 

 

 

 

I took the flywheel off to clean the points. When I reinstalled the flywheel I was tightening the nut with about a 6" long combination wrench. Suddenly it didn't feel like it was tightening anymore or like something was yielding. I didn't know the torque spec but was nowhere near 90 inch lbs. Anyway I fired it up and it ran fine for a minute or so while I measured voltage and frequency and then the engine quit. I noticed the flywheel had slipped and sheared the aluminum key. After making the new key I reinstalled it and used my torque wrench, this time set to 90 inch lbs, and the stud broke at about 70 inch lbs. Examining the break, from the color I could tell it had been partially broken long before I got the generator. Since then I have drilled and threaded the crank for a stud. The crank seems to be hardened and is difficult to drill but I got sufficient depth to install the threaded stud. Tomorrow I'll probably try reinstalling the flywheel and running it again.

2" overall length

I took the flywheel off to clean the points. When I reinstalled the flywheel I was tightening the nut with about a 6" long combination wrench. Suddenly it didn't feel like it was tightening anymore or like something was yielding. I didn't know the torque spec but was nowhere near 90 inch lbs. Anyway I fired it up and it ran fine for a minute or so while I measured voltage and frequency and then the engine quit. I noticed the flywheel had slipped and sheared the aluminum key. After making the new key I reinstalled it and used my torque wrench, this time set to 90 inch lbs, and the stud broke at about 70 inch lbs. Examining the break, from the color I could tell it had been partially broken long before I got the generator. Since then I have drilled and threaded the crank for a stud. The crank seems to be hardened and is difficult to drill but I got sufficient depth to install the threaded stud. Tomorrow I'll probably try reinstalling the flywheel and running it again.

I took the flywheel off to clean the points. When I reinstalled the flywheel I was tightening the nut with about a 6" long combination wrench. Suddenly it didn't feel like it was tightening anymore or like something was yielding. I didn't know the torque spec but was nowhere near 90 inch lbs. Anyway I fired it up and it ran fine for a minute or so while I measured voltage and frequency and then the engine quit. I noticed the flywheel had slipped and sheared the aluminum key. After making the new key I reinstalled it and used my torque wrench, this time set to 90 inch lbs, and the stud broke at about 70 inch lbs. Examining the break, from the color I could tell it had been partially broken long before I got the generator. Since then I have drilled and threaded the crank for a stud. The crank seems to be hardened and is difficult to drill but I got sufficient depth to install the threaded stud. Tomorrow I'll probably try reinstalling the flywheel and running it again.

I sheared my flywheel key on my Tiny Tiger a couple of days ago when the flywheel came loose. No damage done since it just slipped on the shaft and quit running. Anyway I found these Hillman keys, steel not aluminum, at the local farm store. The size is right except the thickness. Ten minutes under my thumb on a sharpening stone fixed that, reducing from 2mm thick to 1.5mm. A pack of three was around $2.50.

Thank you DustyB. This is exactly what I need to fabricate a base!