rbcfab

Anyone seen or know where to find information on one of these? I found a small amount of info searching on the web but nothing other than old ads and a brief description. Has a 5hp Briggs. Trying to decide if I'm going to do anything with it or pass it on. Thanks

Agreed on the unwanted tracking aspects of FB. Unfortunately, it seems to be the best way to find things for sale lately. I've seen deteriorated rubber/cloth insulation before. The copper wire strands were mostly corroded away inside what was left of the insulation. To replace the leads, I ended going all the way back to the windings on most. Ended up having to use red "liquid electrical tape" and some head shrink to cover everything back up. There are co2 and fiber lasers that will cut most metals but I think they would be too much for the .004. The router is a better choice as there is little to no HAZ to change the temper of the steel. I think I had the feed rate too high on that last run of springs. Slowing it down more would probably yield a finer finished edge. I would like to rehab a older gas powered drill at some point. Guess it doesn't particularly matter who the manufacturer was.

Decent looking drill on FB marketplace if anyone is around Tennessee. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/857598848432818 Is there a OR machines for sale thread?

Thanks for the compliments. After looking at pictures of other similar units, mine is it in pretty nice shape overall. Think the generator head leads were the most rotten out of everything. I can't remember ever seeing wire disintegrate like that. I ended up using a CNC router after the laser wouldn't touch it. I cut six of them for spares in case I mangled couple reassembling the carb. Didn't need them. Wasn't all that bad. I did not read through the carb thread's instructions but I did use the idea of fishing it in there with dental floss.

Took a break on this for a little while to fix the ignition on a Tecumseh powered Blue Star welder. So I was able to cut the carb spring shape from the spring steel material. Edges were sightly rough but a little filing took care of that. I reassembled the carb with the new spring and reproduction carb diaphragm and check valve. It fired right up after priming the lines with fuel using a little air pressure! Only adjustments I've made is the mixture screw to get the rpms right for the correct voltage. Calling this one done for now I guess. Might need to keep an eye out for another OR tool to rebuild!

I reassembled the engine after posting last night, convincing myself that the piston/rings/cylinder were serviceable and I didn't want to go on a wild goose chase to find parts. I'll look to see if I took pictures that included the piston. The crankshaft seals were rock hard and not sealing against the crank. I removed all three and replaced with nitrile o rings. The fit will work but wasn't exact. Way better than what was there though. 10-4. It appeared to have little run time. It did look like it ingested some of the filter but wasn't in terrible shape. Someone must have removed the rest of the foam because the air filter housing was empty. I have the narrow rings. They did look shiny so one would think that the plating is still intact. The top ring was more worn than the lower. I did not replace the exhaust gaskets as they still looked surprisingly well. I guess we will see if they leak. I did substitute a thin film of yamabond for the tiny induction paper gasket; also an experiment. Wow, good thing I don't need that piston! I have similar gasket material to cut new gaskets from. I guess I could do that by hand or draw it up and use the laser.

Was working on reassembly and not sure if I need to replace the piston rings or not. I searched and did not see any spec on piston to cylinder or rig gap clearance. Anyone have input on when to change the rings and better yet, are any rings out there? Thanks, Robert

Thankfully, no. It is a standard size; .125". I did use the mini lathe to profile the end and and part it from the rest of the stock though. Excellent measurements, David. I'll redraw what I estimated earlier and will see what I can do with this .004 stock material.

That would be most helpful. I received the material Friday so would like to cut this weekend at some point. The points rod turned out fine. .831 overall length.

Decided to extend the fuel pickup tube in the tank with some copper tubing and fitting a filter like David describe earlier. I ordered a few RC glow filters but all required larger fuel line. Seems like 3/32 fits the best so hoping that is what the barbs on Sullivan 187 are for.

While waiting on material, figured I would get the shape of the spring down. Printed a couple trial and errors and think I have the shape close but seems a little long when compared to the original pieces. Anyone have measurements or could measure a good factory piece? Thanks. Robert

David, Thanks for the spec on the push rod measurement. I'll try making one out of garolite g-11. I've ordered the set CNew linked from Ebay. Will see how they compare to the originals. All of mine are serviceable except the hardened diaphragm. Robert

Did you ever finish your rebuild of your Aquascooter? That one looks like a 400 with a Tillotson HS. I've rebuilt completely rebuilt three of them. Stripped and powder coated the frames even. Odd little things but isn't that why we are on here? Ha! Robert

Thanks for the links. I haven't dug around much on Ebay for parts. Looks like I need to. Will need to get one of those gasket sets for the diaphragm. My other pieces seem fine but would like to replace the plastic check valve also. Think I'll try my luck with making the rod. I have some other things to order from McMaster. I hadn't seen that thread on the springs but had the same thought about cutting one out of 1095 spring steel material. My original pieces measure about .004". I have access to a 40w laser as well. Not sure if it will cut shim material or not. Should at least make a nice pattern to trace using dykem. Robert

Hello all. Very interesting forum. Lots of valuable info. Have a Tiny Tiger generator that I bought at a garage sale years ago that I have started to take apart and clean. Between ingesting the foam filter and having mix gas left in it, there has been quite the mess to clean up. I have it totally apart and clean but had a casualty or two. I am looking for a carb lever spring and possibly a points push rod. I see from another thread that I need to PM another member for a carb diaphragm. The spring was embedded in the oil/varnish mix and was mostly eaten away. After soaking the assembly in an ultrasonic cleaner, I finished the part off with an inspection pick. The push rod was my own fault as I didn't remove the points cover before trying to separate that housing from the crankcase which broke the rod. I can make a new push rod if needed. It looks like .125" OD garolite(bakelite) rod to me. Pretty easy to find. Any particular direction I should look in? Thanks, Robert