Thanks dcp, yes the Multigardener does have similar lines but I cant find anything on the net with any sort of height adjuster, even the colour is similar
Are the injector pipes interchangeable, or are they unique to each cylinder? If unique then is this the only part you have not swopped between cylinders ?
Yes they are identical and swapped, the engine is basically 2 singles with a shared crankcase and crank.
Just had one of those 'eureka' moments, (or perhaps I'm waking up) you've swopped cylinders ,pistons ,heads etc did you check piston height ,You could conceivably have a bent conrod which would lower compression on that cylinder if you only swopped the pistons and not the rod.
No I didn't check piston height or swap the rods so it is something else to look at.
It'll turn out to be something simple in the end .what about a temporary electric fuel pump to boost pressure? How are the two pumps synchronized for fuel delivery? has someone had it apart before ? could the delivery be less on the second cylinder? Does it run faster when on one cylinder than the other at the same setting?
Soon be time for more asprins
ps
I assume the cam lobes for the valves checked out ok
Yes will probably be something simple just hard to find. I think the fuel pressure is ok, there is plenty of fuel returning back to the tank from the ( not sure what there called ) overspill hoses, I don't think it can be less delivery on the 2nd cylinder as swapping the feed from going to the 1st pump to going to the 2nd pump 1st and also swapping the pumps over would have swapped the problem to the 1st cylinder ( not very well explained I know ) I am going to try and make a new injector pipe so I can feed no2 cylinder from no1 pump just to see if I can make the smoke stop on no2.
Valve timing was right, the " book " does refer to Bosch and traditional pumps so whether the traditional doesn't have spacers I'm not sure, the book is good in places but a bit vague in others, mine aren't Bosch they are Standyne. I may try a thin washer between the pump and tappet to see if it improves things, but I will turn it over by hand 1st to make sure the extra lift isn't to much lift.
Hi, Rather than strip the thing right down, is it possible to set up a dial gauge to read the lift from the cam lobes and compare them either with a spec sheet or each other? looking at the manual via the link from Koen, could the spacer between the tappet and pump be missing on this cylinder, page 36,drawing 80, item C ?
Doug.
I thought you had it for a bit Doug, took the bad side pump off and no spacer "page 36,drawing 80, item C" so took the good side pump off and also no spacer, the lobes on the cam shaft are good and lifting the pump tappets the same amount. I cant see any possible way now why its smoking, its just lucky that as its a twin with the same components for each so I could swap them about or I could have bought things I didn't need but its still not fixed Thanks for your help and Its back to the shed for this one for a bit, given up with it.
Another problem now, to get the camshaft out you have to take the oil pump off the far end and to take the oil pump cover off the generator has to be split from the engine, I presume it will be a taper fit but I cant see any way of getting a puller on, has anyone any idea how they can be split?
Well if you don't have air in your fuel lines or a clogged fuel tank breather hole then i would say that the problem is going to be internal. You may be looking at worn or jammed piston rings, worn or scored cylinders, or worn valve guides. I'm afraid if you have eliminated everything else this is where the problem points.
No air, no blocked breather, nothing internal as I have swapped over the pistons, cylinders and heads but everything looked ok anyway, I swapped over the fuel feed today so the smoky cylinder side gets the fuel 1st but still the same, only thing I can think of next is the lobes on the cam for the injector, cant see it being that but what else to check.
You seem to have tried everything. What condition is the fuel supply pipe like to that side injector? Is it kinked or partly blocked?
The fuel supply comes from the other injector pump, ie it is teed off, I did think whether the lift pump was supplying enough pressure but if I slacken the injector pipe off on the 1st cylinder the engine still runs on the white smoke cylinder, still making loads of smoke
White smoke is caused by raw, unburnt fuel passing into the exhaust stream or water burning in the combustion. Common causes include 1) Blown head gasket allowing water to enter the combustion area. This will usually smell slightly sweet. 2) Defective fuel injectors. 3) Low cylinder compression, low cylinder compression may be caused by leaking valves, sticking piston rings, ring wear, cylinder wear, or cylinder glaze. 4) When white smoke occurs at cold start and then disappears as the engine warms up, the most common causes are fouling deposits around piston rings and/or cylinder glazing.
5) Water entering combustion spaces will also create white smoke. 6) Faulty head gaskets and cracked cylinder heads or blocks are a common cause of water entry.
Small diesel engine basics.
The engine is air cooled, there is no water in the diesel or in the sump, and swapping over all the parts should alleviate the compression and injector, injector pump causes, I am not an expert but I think I have covered all the possible problems. There are 2 separate cylinders or barrels which are identical.
Not really an old machine, from the 90's I think, but still perhaps of interest on here. I have a Ruggerini M150 twin cylinder diesel genset/welder with a problem, it white smokes very badly on one cylinder, I have swapped over injectors, pumps, cylinder heads, cylinders and pistons and it still smokes on the same cylinder each time, if I slacken each injector pipe off, the revs drop a bit, the same on each cylinder and still it smokes on the same cylinder, any ideas anyone please?
A couple if pictures of my Hayter Harrier, bought it last year off a guy who bought it new in 78, only needed a new carb diaphragm to get it running again, sadly it has to go, it is a very good mower but I just don't have the room for everything I've got.
In the 1982 Westwood catalogue the mower with the deck similar to mine has an 18 inch deck not 14 inch They also list a model called a Sabre and if it was you were thinking of Wristpin then yes it has an alloy deck.
I've just found some pictures of a Westwood I had a few years back and although the height adjustment and handle mount is different the deck looks to be the same or very similar
hi sten, is there anything writen on the throttle control??
never seen a hayter with that height control knob but also cant find anything like it, also what is the blade set up on it , most hayters (but not all) have a disc with triangular blades fitted
Hi, no nothing on the throttle control and it has just a normal single blade
.what about a temporary electric fuel pump to boost pressure? How are the two pumps synchronized for fuel delivery? has someone had it apart before ? could the delivery be less on the second cylinder? Does it run faster when on one cylinder than the other at the same setting?
Thanks for your help and Its back to the shed for this one for a bit, given up with it.
Translation help needed
in Ride On's
Posted
The German translation is "Before shifting come to a halt"