Wristpin

Here's a man who has bought, spent a fortune on restoration and enjoyed his collection but is now making them available for others to enjoy - at a price! http://www.edp24.co.uk/news/huge_and_historic_collection_of_vintage_tractors_to_go_under_the_hammer_1_4158203

6203 3/4,were an off the shelf size at our local supplier, Kent Bearings of Ashford as were 6203 5/8 and 6202 5/8. If you can't get them locally give them a ring 01233 500005 .

That's an early Westwood chassis but using a Dynamark deck. The first Westwood tractors were in fact re- badged Dynamarks, then Westwood built their own chassis and finally their own decks ( welded pans rather than pressed).

I've got a workshop manual . I'll scan and upload it later. On Edit. Here it is. I've omitted two pages illustrating special tools but can add them if needed. https://www.dropbox.com/s/thcxuf525qssvos/MAG%202055%20%20WS%20Manual0001.pdf?dl=0 I notice that some of the correspondence and manuals that I have are dated 1970 so Headexam may be a bit pessimistic in attributing Mag's demise to the 1950s.

Yes, I think that " at least" is the operative word as over the years I've fallen foul of several variations when trying to dig out of various problems by mixing and matching! Flywheels, crank tapers, magneto back plates and manifolds have all featured. Back in the 80s we were stocking three different governor links and even a small hinged governor vane different from either of the ones in my post and I'd totally forgotten about that variation. Also there were different crankshaft oil dippers to go with the various depths of sump. I recolect that the dippers had a single digit ID number stamped into them. I'm surprised at the suggestion that SIF could have blatantly copied the BS design with out some sort of legal arrangement as patent legislation etc goes a lot further back than the 1940s..

As requested some more images - the PTO side and the UK made Zenith up draught carburettor.Sorry about the orientation of two of the images, the iPad seems to have a mind of its own for images taken in portrait !

Great restoration and pictures . Prompts me to ask what is the history of the use of the Briggs design by the UK's Suffolk Iron Foundary for their 75 and 98 cc cast iron block engines. Was it a licensing agreement or did SIF buy the rights to redundant designs when Briggs moved on to alloy blocks for the smaller capacity engines. I'm not an engine collector as such but the attached images are of some SIF lumps ready to go onto my small collection of " working classics".

They are right about Tecumseh giving up engine production - their main business is air conditioning equipment - but there's still plenty of stuff around but it may take a bit of hunting out. A new crank of the right spec may be a bit difficult and possibly expensive but unless it is a weird spec for the Wheelhorse a decent used one shouldn't be too much of a problem. Cant remember whether or not you have posted the full engine number and spec of your engine but if you post it again I'll have a look in the Tecumseh manual and see if I can locate the part number for the crank to compare with the Atco spec one. The flywheel should not be a problem.

My guess is that any business will take one look at the scored bore and damaged crank and say "forget it". However it's amazing just what you can get away with but in your case I think that at the very least it will always be an "oil burner" ; but if you do the valves and sort the damaged taper without spending much, if nothing else it will be a good learning exercise.

Just looked at this topic for the first time . Don't know about broken rings but that bore does look a bit sad and has possibly suffered a partial seizure in the past. The crank taper, as has been commented on, is definitely the worse for wear and any clean up and recovery job will, at the best, be the best of a bad job. Basically the key is just to position the flywheel in the correct position to generate the spark in relation to the position of the piston in the compression/power strokes and the point that the contact breaker opens. It is the taper fit between the crank and the flywheel that it keep it in position - hence the importance of a good fit. If there is not a good interference fit the flywheel will loosen and the engine will "eat" keys. If the taper is good, providing that the ignition cam ring is located , it is quite possible to line up the flywheel with the key way, torque it up and run without a key but with a bad taper no amount of torquing or key replacement will succeed. You may be able to dress the roughness on the crank with a fine file and then lap the flywheel to the crank using first coarse and then fine valve grinding paste. I say may because my ratio of success to failure has not been good but if both components are damaged you have little to loose. The good news is that the H50/60 was used in big numbers on Atco 20/24 and 30 inch Heavy Duty cylinder mowers so there are a lot around - but not necessarily of the right crankshaft configuration - but worth a look at before taking the Stateside route. The carbs used on those engines could be a right pig if allowed to become badly contaminated with stale fuel and often resisted cleaning - even ultrasonic cleaning . If using compressed air, beware of blasting through the fuel inlet or you could end up with the minute needle seat somewhere across the workshop!

If it's the air filter that's concerning you, both engines use the same carburettor and air filter.

Engine size. If the ID plate is missing , only by measuring the bore - I think. My images of the air filters seem to have got rotated so "left is right" ! ** The square one is the right one for the Atco in question. ** only when viewed on the Ipad - how odd!

The original would be the one on the left attached with a rubber, later a plastic bush. The one on the right is a later type and still available as an after-market part.

No way should you scrap it. My BRL would do it but slowly . I run it dry with dust extractor but I've still got the wet kit and could get a bit heavier. However a friend has a bigger Atterton Master which eats twelve inch diameter gang cylinders and wouldn't even break sweat taking an eighth off ! See what Garfitts have to say . Nil illegitimo carborundum , 😱

Think that the Belgian made machines had "Amnor" on their ID plates.

Your machine probably has a Villiers F15 engine. The last of the line had Wipac electronic ignition but most will be found with points and condensers. To get to the points you will need to remove the fuel tank, the engine cowling and then the flywheel but if you only need to clean and adjust them it can be done through the little removable "port hole" in the flywheel. If you wish to avoid the problem in the future you can update the system to electronic by removing/ disconnecting the points and condenser and fitting a Meco or Nova electronic ignition module using the original coil. Cost, around £20. You can also update using a Wipac unit but that is considerably more expensive as it involves a change of flywheel.

Quote "There's a belt size reference chart downloadable from the RS forum site but I haven't had a lot of luck using it to get the correct belt to the extent of wondering if they don't measure belts differently over there." Three common measuring systems. Inner diameter, outer diameter and mean pitch length. Often not specified which system is in use! The other thing to bear in mind is that the US expressions of belt section do not coincide directly with our A and B sections and may make the belt ride higher or lower in the pulley thereby changing the belt length required between two or more fixed points. The comment about Kevlar belts having no or little advantage over black belts surprises me greatly and is contrary to my own experience however if in that application the black belts are giving satisfactory performance so be it! https://www.dropbox.com/s/2euxop4vyvf8eia/Dayco%20belt%20section%20info0001.pdf?dl=0 Dayco belt section info0001.pdf

"Where's the best place to find a drive belt for a deck and what am I looking for?" As Wheelhorses were always a bit under specified for UK grass I would always buy a Kevlar corded belt rather than a generic nylon or rayon "black belt". Hopefully someone on the forum has already found out the correct measurement as I'm fairly sure that Wheelhorse only quoted part numbers and didn't mark their belts with inch sizes. Do you know the model number of the deck and is it side or rear eject?. Edit, Found these https://www.dropbox.com/s/zsou48qffbpg69a/Wheelhorse%20belts0001.pdf?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/v0q7m1iin4hkzl3/WH%20Quick%20Reference0001.pdf?dl=0

Unfortunately it has become a necessary evil but I think that they need to put better quality staff on their dispute resolution team i.e. ones with an understanding of plain English and at least a couple of brain cells. I bought a machine that was described as " just had a full service" . No way had it been serviced as the images that I supplied showed and as someone who had bought, sold and serviced similar machines for 40 years I was able to give a detailed list of its shortcomings. The nearest they offered to "resolution" was for me to return it for a refund at MY EXPENSE !

fuFrom memory neither ! Long gone and if memory serves me right I last saw the site selling fire places and garden ornaments. Come down the 21 to the roundabout at the start of the by-pass. Turn right into the village and it would have been on the left before the high street proper. Trying to think of anyone that I know who would know but at the moment it eludes me. Do know that they did a big trade in Shay machines. Dad had the Rotoscythe with the roller and grass box and I remember a couple of the push four wheeled machines (Countryman) and a cultivator all within half a mile of home.

My Dad had a Rotoscythe in the 1950s and the sight of the red one reminds me of burning the inside of my wrist on that curved exhaust pipe while attempting to turn the hight adjuster! Our local distributor at the time was Robertsbridge Garage (E Sussex) and I remember going there to collect some cutter discs and screws an seeing a large shed full awaiting winter service.

Not so sure about that as they used Villiers engines in their motor bikes. Particularly memorable the 250cc two stroke twin - either flat out or oiled up!

Is Norman a make on its own or a marinaded version of another manufacturer? When I saw the name Norman my mind went straight to the old Norman cycle and motor cycle factory in Ashford , Kent !

A Harrier 2, tne of the last of the good old solid sand cast decks . The next model, tthe dark green Harrier 48 had the lighter weight pressure die cast deck that corroded like B********y and shed its paint!

Great bit of kit, reminds me of a lunar rover buggy thingy!! Is that a big Onan or Kohler stuffed in the back?