Wristpin

My guess is imperial but I’ve been away from things for a while. A bit of Model , Type and Code digging may reveal something as would a bit of probing through the shaft drilling using the two sizes of twist drill as slip gauges may suggest something.

Just make sure that you can account for every bit of the failed roll pin. If you can’t find all the bits in the sump, take the cam out and flush out the inside of the crankcase over a clean receptacle and hope to find the missing part of rock hard roll pin that will do serious damage if picked up between cam and crank gears or the worm gear and the bronze worm wheel. This is not from the official manual but we used to replace the standard roll pin with a stronger “ spirol” - especially on contractors’ machines. BUT don’t upgrade the pins outside the engine such as in the dog clutch fixings. You need to maintain a weak link and a lot easier to replace.

Are we to assume that you are trying to pull the sump over all the crud on the crank ? Taking it at face value you must clear all that crud off the crank - scraping and fine sand paper. May even be helpful to pull out the oil seal so as to clean right down to the clean part of the the crank, then plenty of thin oil.

This may help. The most important things to getting a good clutch are Eliminating end float in the axle. Good bushes in the hub and the clutch plate to eliminate wobble in both. A good clutch lever locking catch to maintain " full pull" when disengaged. That way you can obtain full pressure when in drive. There's a fairly simple fix for a worn latch. Its the same lever as was used on a belt drive Webb 24. A couple of weeks ago Central Spares had "last two" in stock and I pointed someone in that direction then! Nearly £50!!, but the fix is cheap! https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/op1d2jdld8fwpxwonrdwk/Hayter-21-Ospey-Clutch-adjustment0001.pdf?rlkey=mbisdqg3nym1i929gp8xci803&dl=0

Not got an engine handy to try but 1/4”. AF , I think. I have Snap-on and Draper in that size. Quite possibly there’s a metric size that will fit.

As far as I can see, the wiring is basically ok , just a bit untidy! The wire going to the condenser anchor screw is the common ground for the primary and secondary windings of the coil. Flywheel magnetism - very unlikely to be an issue. Maybe I’ve been lucky but in 50+ years of playing with small engines , I’ve yet to find one where loss of residual magnetism has been the culprit. Even on Villiers on old Atco Standards , coils and condensers have been the issue , not flywheels. Timing. As has been said, the flywheel and points cam are keyed to the crank, so no issue there. The timing of the spark ( points opening) for that engine is 22-24 degrees before top dead centre with the points set to the recommended gap .( 17thou? - it’s stamped on the flywheel) . The only adjustment for that is moving the stator plate in its slots . Chances are that unless it’s been messed with the stator is ok where it is. If you want to check it , a timing disk can be printed out from the Internet and glued to a bit of card, attached to the crank, and the exact position of the points opening checked/ set either with your multimeter or the proverbial fag paper ! The sequence is to set the gap first, then their 22/24 degree BTDC opening. I would double check that the points are really clean and the moving one is free to move on its pivot and making good contact when closed. Sometimes , due to wear on the heal of the moving point , it’s necessary to unscrew the fixed point and move the shim washers .

Hi Aldy , that was a while ago!. Can you resend PM your email to me and I'll see what I can find. I don't use this form much these days so it is just luck that I picked this up. AS

Sounds to me like worn gear selector keys and / or worn internal splines in the matching / most used gears - say 3 and 4.

At about 7/ 800 rpm and complete with a headache bar !

Looking at the pics of your jet assembly I’ve only just noticed that it appears to be missing a dished washer that compresses and expands the black flexible washer to lock the whole thing in place. When I get a mo I will have a look at a couple of books to identify it by number.

Long time ago, but did you get the jet issue sorted out?

Retiring for the second time !! Having a clear out ! Villiers 150 cc Lightweight. 3/4” straight crank with keyway. Ex Webb24, I believe . Had a full overhaul and a set of rings. £75 Briggs & Stratton. 3HP. Straight crank with keyway. Ex Ransomes Marquis. Electronic ignition Valve job, tank clean etc. £85 Villiers F12 Sloper. Ex Marquis . Valve job, carb clean , recoil overhauled etc. £75 All running and ready to use. Collect from near Ashford , Kent. TN20 2

That’s good, but note that there should be an O ring on the leading end of the nylon insert - not shown on the image from Lauren. Good assembly instructions in the BS manual. As I have said , I’m unable to post them on this site. However if you feel able to private message me with your email contact , I can scan and attach the relevant page of the manual to an email to you.

I think that it will be a case of extracting the nylon bit and most likely starting with a new one . Probably not much to loose by screwing the adjustable jet screw into the nylon and grasping it with some grips to pull the nylon out. Once out , hopefully you won’t see any internal threads and you will see a step. You should then assemble an undamaged jet, the washers and spring into a new nylon , screw in the jet so that it just touches the spring ( not compression it) . Then insert it into the carb, lining up the flat with the step. Then firmly push it into the carb using a deep socket or similar - BS suggest using an oil filler tube.Pushing firmly on the outer steel shaped washer should expand the rubber washer and lock everything into place. Lauren has provided a good pic that shows the order of play. Once seated you can gently screw the adjustable jet fully in , then back it off a couple of turns as a basic setting which should allow the engine to start.

If I’m understanding you correctly , if you have the nylon sleeve with a flat. That flat engages with a corresponding one in the carb body and the sleeve should not be able to be “ screwed in” when correctly assembled . Going back a post or two , Lauren asks whether you have the plastic push in type and it just occurs to me that you may have a mix of a carb body with the conventional screw in assembly , and that for some reason that’s not clear you are trying to fit the later push in one ? An image or two of what you have may help. Could it be that you are trying to screw the later jet assembly into an earlier carb body ? With whatever jet assembly you have , removed is the internal of the orifice in the carb body , threaded ? If it is , it’s not for that plastic jet assembly. If it’s not threaded, it’s probably got a step in it to engage with the flat of the later plastic ones, although , the early plastic ones didn’t have the flat and their carb bodies didn’t the step. If you can get hold of the manual it shows this. I’ve scanned my manual but have been unable to attach the scan to this post - I think because I’m no longer a paid up member - that’s a long story that never got sorted out a couple of years back when the site payment system wouldn’t accept my payment and admin ( nylion? )Was going to do so but it never seems to have happened. Time has moved on and it’s not bothered me but it would be useful to post the occasional image .

If you can find the appropriate BS manual* it shows how to reseat that jet, but the weapon of choice is a Briggs dip stick tube. The slightly chamfered end that pushes into the plastic seal in the sump of its intended use, pushes against the steel “ bellville” washer of the jet assembly and seats it into the carb. * Single cylinder L head post 1981. Page 23. Publication 270962-12/03

Loctite do a useful two part adhesive called Multibond. Quick curing. I’ve used it successfully to re- attache Hayer Osprey and 21 clutch linings and other similar jobs.

Membership. Quite possibly as the last time I tried to renew, the site wouldn't accept payment and Nylon ? Said that he would sort it. That was the last I heard. Not too bothered as my interests mainly lie elsewhere.

Thank you. I will ask my friend ( who is 20+ miles away) for any engine info that he has. Meanwhile he’s bought an Etesia with a Briggs Vanguard lump and I’ve got all the manuals for that. I tried to post an image of the Onan rectifier/regulator but I seem to be lacking the ology to navigate this site. Going to “ insert other media” is met with a message that I’ve used up my allowance but with no obvious way of clearing my attachments to previous posts going back several years.

A friend has two aged Wheelhorses , one with an Onan engine with a charging regulator rectifier of a type that I’ve not seen before. Instead of the usual three separate terminals - one for each end of the stator winding and the centre one for the output to the battery, it has the centre one bonded to one of the outers. Can anyone explain this. ? Not having much joy with attaching an image. Says that I’ve used up all my attachment space but don’t seem to be able to clear any off.

That must be considered to be progress, but I hope that it’s as simple as that, but ……………. !

Not sure about that. The coil will have a wire connected to the insulated block retaining the points spring and sharing it with the wire from the condenser and the kill switch - the coil primary, not connected or touching the engine block. Any other wire is the earthed or grounded end of the coil primary or secondary winding - often to one of the bolts holding the coil armature to the block. The wire that is visible, in your first image, running from the coil to the insulated block , is the coil primary and must only be connected to the points , condenser and kill wire via the common connection on the insulating block.

Before you spend on parts. Looking at your first image it’s possible that the terminal ends of the coil primary wire and the wire from the condenser/ capacitor , are very near to the casing and could be shorting out on the wall of the magneto casing. If they are, it’s a cheap fix. Also, make sure that the spring steel strip from the moving point is not eating out any where and is held square against the plastic insulator. The coil is available as are the points. The exact condenser that fits on the side of the mag may be tricky to find but a generic one can be hooked up outside the mag. Both the coil and condenser may be tested , as can the whole stator assembly. If you are not concerned about originality, and so long as the coil is good , you can ditch the points and condenser and fit an after market transistorised trigger unit; for about the same money as new points and condenser and does away with points wear and routine adjustment. Just noticed the wire going away from the mag, presumably to a a throttle operated kill switch on the carburettor/ governor plate, a prime candidate for an unwanted short to Earth.

Quite often those narrow tractors were built by by a main dealer in a part of the world where a certain crop was grown . Here in Kent they were hop-garden or orchard tractors and both the main Ford and Ferguson Dealers had their own versions. Don’t know whether the DB was a factory job or a dealer special.

Valve job not too difficult but a valve spring compressor will make life easier. Bigger issue is the lack of access around the engine so the choice is to remove the engine or the tin work around it. I would do the latter and leave the lump in situ. Saves fighting with belts and pulleys etc.