Can anyone confirm the type of engine fitted to this car? The one in this thread could either be a Model J (gearbox has clutch fitted) or a Model F (no clutch) or a newer variant of those.
Oddly the rusty one in the other thread seems to have a different engine with it, that one only has a single stage reduction gearbox fitted.
Didn't go past the "accept cookies" pop-up which hides most of the page, but it looks like a Drillgine, these were produced from the early 1960's all the way till the end of AEP (O&R) in 1978, the one advertised has the later type of starter mech which was introduced around 1970.
BTW I don't use bookface, too much unwanted tracking etc. for my liking.
We have a general sale & wanted section on the homepage, scroll down to "recycling center" to find it. People sometimes post them in the O&R section too.
Thanks for the compliments. After looking at pictures of other similar units, mine is it in pretty nice shape overall. Think the generator head leads were the most rotten out of everything. I can't remember ever seeing wire disintegrate like that.
I ended up using a CNC router after the laser wouldn't touch it. I cut six of them for spares in case I mangled couple reassembling the carb. Didn't need them. Wasn't all that bad. I did not read through the carb thread's instructions but I did use the idea of fishing it in there with dental floss.
The generator wiring has rubber insulation, very common in the 1950's, 1960's & earlier for lots of stuff, this either turns hard & crumbly with age or sometimes turns into a sticky gooey mess. It's rarely used these days, last failed rubber cable I came across was in a circa 2006 Weller soldering iron, the insulation of the inner cores had gone hard & crumbly after about 10 years and ending up shorting out the supply.
The CNC router did a very good job at making those, are there lasers that will cut sheet steel? Seem to remember seeing sheet metal cut using a plasma cutter & using a water jet too at an engineering trade show many years ago.
Not done anything else with mine yet, but I imagine the chuck should unscrew same as the others, as always check there isn't a small screw hidden inside the chuck, don't think we've found any yet though.
Found this old advert under completed listings on ePay, thought I would add it here (I've updated the title too).
Merc-O-tronic min-i-pump model 600 advert cut-out from Organic Gardening and Farming magazine, month/week of issue is unknown but the page shows the price offer expired end of December 1966.
Unless it's had a lot of use or ingested the old crumbly air filter foam them it's unlikely the rings would need replacing.
What condition was the engine in when you took it apart?
They will either be the narrow type with a chromed edge, or the later wider type.
The narrow chromed type were designed so that when they worn through it showed the iron underneath, at this point they would have recommended replacement.
NOS rings are a finite resource and unless they are obviously worn out we wouldn't suggest replacing them.
There is a seller in the UK has been offering reproduction rings of the wider type for many years, but none of the narrow type.
To add to the confusion the first batch of O&R engines (approx 6000) used an in-between sized ring. Becoming unobtainable in the early 1960's they would have recommended replacing a whole bunch of parts to ungrade it the standard version.
You will find the original cylinder gaskets will leak all over your cleaned up engine if not replaced, I was making my own replacements but as we haven't had any engine shows in the UK for some time I've not had the opportunity to pickup some more offcuts of gasket material.
Yes he does have an O&R with the Octura rotary valve (& water cooled cylinder), but it was a bit camera shy when he was restoring it , hopefully another will turn up eventually as I wouldn't expect it will need opening up anytime soon.
It's now in the White Heat in the first post here;
I only sent a message to advise them it was not as described, they wouldn't want someone to claim for this when it arrives and is found not to be an O&R or Orline. No interest in buying at that price even if it had international shipping, same goes for the actual O&R powered tools he has.
I can't tell you exactly what the rotary valve looks like as I haven't seen the parts, but it will be something similar to rotary valve used on the pre-Compact model engines. The reed valve assembly & PTO shaft will be replaced with parts with holes machined into them, to allow fuel through at a certain point in the rotation when the holes in the bearing plate & shaft line up.
You can see the hole in the crankshaft that lines up with the carb port in the sectioned Ohlsson 29 engines.
And the crankshaft has a hole through to the crankcase as seen in my Ohlsson 60.
Many more engines had the Octura carb fitted than the rotary valve, it's entirely up to you if you want to use one or not, note the fuel tank cannot be fitted the carb above as they sometimes are, unless you want the fuel to slowly leak out through the carb.
There is a badly advertised & overpriced TAS pump on ePay in Canada, seller thinks it's an O&R, I did send them a message but they haven't replied or corrected it . https://www.ebay.com/itm/114666852338
Here are some pictures I have saved from the listing.
Decided to extend the fuel pickup tube in the tank with some copper tubing and fitting a filter like David describe earlier.
I ordered a few RC glow filters but all required larger fuel line. Seems like 3/32 fits the best so hoping that is what the barbs on Sullivan 187 are for.
I've been using 3/32 fuel line, it's a tight fit but will go on the Sullivan 187 filters.
When I started I had a slightly larger sized fuel line, but eventually found it was a bit loose on the tank & carb fittings.
The push rod was my own fault as I didn't remove the points cover before trying to separate that housing from the crankcase which broke the rod. I can make a new push rod if needed. It looks like .125" OD garolite(bakelite) rod to me. Pretty easy to find.
The breaker push rod is 0.837" long when new, O&R recommended replacing it when it has worn to below 0.8". I have a some of them too.
Is no one offering replacement diagram kits of the forum in the US? The guy on ebay doesn't seem to offer the correct amount of parts in his kit for later engines or have the correct thickness ones for the older engines.
If your check valve is made of the clear material it should be OK, older ones were the same rubber material as the main diaphragm & are best replaced.
Would be interesting to see how you get on the making a new diaphragm arm spring.
, hopefully another will turn up eventually as I wouldn't expect it will need opening up anytime soon.
recoil starter for a 1HP O&R (from Devillaine Ouragan)
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
Can anyone confirm the type of engine fitted to this car? The one in this thread could either be a Model J (gearbox has clutch fitted) or a Model F (no clutch) or a newer variant of those.
Oddly the rusty one in the other thread seems to have a different engine with it, that one only has a single stage reduction gearbox fitted.
David