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Everything posted by factory

  1. It's a shame whoever removed the motor contactor (with overload protection?) didn't label the wiring to help with replacing or refitting it. Looking at http://lathes.co.uk/colchester-catalogue-covers/ I see the switch on the front of the panel can select to run just the main motor or both the main motor & pump, there seems to be a separate switch for the light. It's hard to tell if the small transformer is for the low voltage for the contactor coil and/or the lighting? You may be able to buy a manual from http://www.lathes.co.uk/colchester/page2.html , you would need to contact them to find out if it is the correct one for your lathe. Of course if your not sure about it, it's probably best to find a good electrician to sort it out. David
  2. factory

    1974 Dubro shark Helicopter

    I was thinking it would be very difficult to pack assembled and even part disassembled any fragile parts would need wrapping in plenty of packing to survive the long journey, I don't mind waiting till you are better, looking after your health is more important. As very few of either kit made it to the UK in the 1970's and I've never seen one advertised over here, I have no idea of the value. I will send a PM with my email, as I would be interested in seeing a picture. David
  3. factory

    1974 Dubro shark Helicopter

    I would like one, but I don't think they be easy to pack or survive shipping to the UK. David P.S. I suspect the problem with adding more pictures is you have run out of free space, by becoming a forum supporter would allow more and help with the cost of running the forum, server space isn't free unfortunately.
  4. factory

    Tiny Tiger for Sale

    Looks very nice, looking through my saved pictures from ebay of the Tiny Tiger Model 5001-1 which I think this is (but it's hard to tell from the pictures), ones in this condition go for around $200-$250 or sometimes a lot more depending on the interest at the time, also advertising internationally on ebay can increase the price. Note the larger gas tank versions like this one are less common than the standard ones. Here is a thread from earlier this year showing how the tank can be resealed; David
  5. factory

    Tarpen/O&R hedge trimmer

    Nice find, those O&R powered Tarpen powerheads are quite hard to find. David
  6. factory

    O&R compact

    There are two main types of tank offered with these engines, an alloy base tank that the engine sits on, or a round steel can tank (some with an internal vent pipe to allow use at various angles). Some tools like the chainsaws and drills had their own special tanks designed for them. If this is the engine from your introduction thread here: Then the tank supplied with it would have been the round steel can type as shown in the diagram below. If you would like any pictures or measurements to help with making a replacement, let me know. David
  7. factory

    Smallholders Show display

    Another excellent display Paul. There was a fairly rare Petro Chug-A-Drill at the Stourport vintage steam rally last weekend, I didn't go myself but there is a picture on flickr here; David
  8. factory


    Here is some data for the other two wires (from my 1993 RS components catalogue, I found nothing online & it seems to be discontinued), apparently this alarm can do nine different tones depending how the green/yellow wires are connected. David
  9. factory

    O&R compact

    Sorry, I should have mentioned the points cover under the flywheel, take the two screws out & remove the cover, the points are under that (as below). David
  10. factory

    O&R compact

    The gap between the coil and the flywheel should be .010", you can use a piece of card of the appropriate thickness to keep the coil in place against the flywheel magnets while the screws are being tightened, if adjustment is needed. First thing to check if there is no spark would be the points that are housed behind the flywheel, these could need cleaning and the gap checking (usually .020" but listed as .015" on the decal on earlier engines), if there is still no spark then you could check the wiring and the coil secondary winding resistance if you have a multimeter, though it's rare for the coil to go bad. I recommended you have a read of the carb rebuild thread if you haven't already, Webhead on here sells new carb diaphragms (also Wallfish has them too). And finally if you have the original air filter assembly don't forget to clean out the old crumbly filter foam from it. David
  11. factory

    Smallholders Show display

    Very nice display as usual. Here are a couple of pictures of a small selection of my O&R's that I displayed at the 1000 engine rally last month, the Tarpen rotary cultivator attachment was bought from one of the stalls there. David
  12. Copied from the original thread from the old forum saved by the internet archive, tutorial courtesy of laserscottman. Here we go! The first pic in this thread shows how it all began. Following are the things I encountered along the way, during cleaning. After receiving the new diaphragm in the mail, I fully used Webhead's excellent instructions to reassemble the Primer/Diaphragm Valve Assembly successfully, with the following pictures detailing how I understood it. Got a block of soft wood and gently screwed the valve body down to hold it still to work on it. Fashioning a suitable 'filament' to thread through as shown, the filament is then used to lift the Diaphragm Arm Spring ends to allow the Diaphragm Roller to be laid in it's place at the right time in the assembly sequence. Then the Disc, Diaphragm and Cover are assembled. The gum package is just a dark background to show the loop on the filament end to better grasp it. A non-magnetic pair of tweezers helped lay the roller in when it was time. The dental tool made it easy to pull/lift/move the Diaphragm Arm Spring to the various positions during assembly. This is a detail view of how the spring will end-up over the roller in the end. Good practice to 'feel' how those spring ends will react to the filament tugging them. Now the Spring is lifted and stays at this position, to allow for installing the Diaphragm Arm. Note that the Roller and the Diaphragm Valve Ball are in place before the Arm is laid in place. The next part is tricky. Using the dental tool to push the Spring over the Lever toward the Roller, you must help the Spring tips over the Roller by using the filament, and helping the Lever to stay draped over the cross pin, until the big end of the Spring is seated well in the Lever short end, and the Spring ends are capturing the Roller. All this is done kind of simultaneously, according to the position of the parts. You will be glad you only need 1 hand to hold the filament, and that you have a fine tool like the dental tool! Perfectly aligned, and will stay if the Lever Arm is not lifted all the way up--which is what got me in this jam in the first place! Now, you must carefully remove the filament. I cut the long end near the Lever Arm, and gently removed the filament. There it is! Then you can sequentially assemble the remaining parts. Be sure to install the screws with fingers, loosely, to avoid bunching up the Diaphragm in the threads. Don't overtighten the screws; the cover can be warped a bit, and may "bite" through the rubber Diaphragm. This assembly then gets the thick Gasket and Diaphragm Valve installed with the clear plastic valve against the body, covering the hole. This is a one-way valve that opens and closes rapidly during operation. The Needle Valve Assembly and the long screw mount the Primer Diaphragm Valve Assembly to the "Quadrant" Carburetor Assembly (carb body). Remember you are tightening a hollow brass part to an aluminum part! Snug, but not overly so. Kinda looks like the Starship Enterprise, don't it? Now this Dinosaur fits in among his smiling friends! Little, but MIGHTY! Many thanks to Webhead for his patient guidance and sharing of parts and resources! And thanks for this forum! Cheers! Another important post courtesy of Webhead who you can contact on here to buy replacement carb diaphragms. "One thing that Scott mentioned that is VERY important- do not over tighten the brass needle valve assembly! I use a nut driver and give it a slight snug. In my earlier days, I snapped off two or three by using a 5/16" wrench. With a wrench, it seems like you always want to give it a little more and then snap!" David edited to add the pictures to the forum.
  13. factory

    O & R Carb Repair Tutorial

    Here is what the manual suggests for getting the lower Carb screw out; This is what I have been using if I need to get the carb screw out without removing the adaptor plate or gearbox (but I usually do a complete engine rebuild instead and remove the adaptor plate or gearbox first). The first two pictures below shows a small flat blade screwdriver (being misused) that fits between the adaptor plate or gearbox mountings, you may need to remove the cylinder plate to gain access. And the last picture shows some other Phillips screwdrivers together with the flat blade one, to use these they would need grinding down to fit between the mountings, I don't want to do this to the orange Wera one but the cheapo one may get modified vandalised. Hope this helps. David
  14. factory

    Best fuels/ mix for tiny tiger?

    That is a very nice condition later Tiny Tiger with the larger gas/fuel tank. I will check the manual for mine, but I wouldn't recommend using a 350W load continuously, something like a 250W maximum load for continuous use would be better to avoid damage (which is what the early ones were rated for). Those starters can be tricky to repair till you get used to fixing them. David
  15. factory

    Best fuels/ mix for tiny tiger?

    Hi Richard, Thanks for that link, 1966 & 1HP makes more sense, the earliest O&R parts list I have mentioning the compact III (1HP) is dated November 1965, that doesn't imply that they didn't introduce it earlier that year of course. The information in the link seems mostly fine, I will see if I can find any more reference to the 16:1 ratio in any of my original O&R literature, I just checked a few yesterday. One thing I don't agree on in the link is the last comment " Used O & R model airplane engine " I think it should really say something like 'used O&R compact industrial engine' as the O&R Compact was developed as an industrial engine (although model makers did & still do use them for other things), here is something I found from an archive document relating to that; I remembered recently buying a parts list dated Apr 1964, hopefully this scan from it helps better with the (early) original ratios, I will edit the calculated 10.67:1 ratio to 11:1 in yesterday's post. Of course modern oils allow higher ratio to be used, as has already been said; David
  16. factory

    Best fuels/ mix for tiny tiger?

    I'm not sure where you found that information but there were no 1HP O&R engines in the early 1960's (only 3/4HP) and the only mention of a 16:1 ratio is for the much later 1970's 1.6HP Model 20A engine, there seems to be a lot of incorrect information around for these engines. Here are some old fuel/oil mix ratios from the various O&R manuals & literature I have, the ratio changed over the years; 1961 & 1962: 3/4 pint #30 SAE oil per gallon (11:1 ratio), these early compact engines where rated at 3/4HP. 1963: 1/3 pint #30 SAE heavy duty oil per gallon (24:1 ratio), again only 3/4HP compact engines available then. 1966: 1/3 pint #30 SAE heavy duty oil per gallon (24:1 ratio), for all 3/4HP, 0.85HP, 1HP compact engines. From the NIAE test report (published 1964), "the petrol/oil mixture has been changed to 24 parts petrol to 1 part oil and the recommended grade of oil is heavy duty M.S. type SAE 30" (was 3/4 pint to 1 gallon when they did the testing in Jan-May 1963) many design changes were made following this report. There was also a mention of chrome cylinder linings, here is the information I have for some of the O&R engines; 1963: Early compact engines had a steel sleeve cylinder with chrome piston rings (earlier information from 1960 doesn't mention the rings being chromed) 1975: Model 13B engine (1HP) has steel cylinder liner with special alloy cast iron rings, and to confuse things more the brochure (undated) for the newer Model 20A engine (1.6HP) gives a 16:1 fuel/oil ratio using either SAE 30AD or MS motor oil, these engines had a chromed cylinder bore. Forum recommendation for fuel/oil mix ratio; We have been recommending a 32:1 fuel/oil mix on the forum for using modern 2-stroke oils, I have been using a high quality mineral based 2-stroke oil from Stihl, another forum user had problems with the synthetic version of 2-stroke oil from Stihl, see this thread; Obviously you may need to experiment to find something suitable that is available where you are, but I do not recommend oils sold by petrol stations for use with scooters (tried some of that in a Villiers engine many years ago, it was far to smoky), the best stores to try and find something suitable would be a local store that sells & repair garden or ground maintenance equipment, chainsaws etc. Note the all the O&R compact engines & the newer Model 20A have seals made from rubber and also on earlier production engines they used plastic cages for the bearings, these can be damaged by certain additives in some types of fuel/oil. Also if you intend to store the engine for any long period it's recommended to drain all fuel and to put some oil down the spark-plug hole, pull the starter a few times to coat the cylinder & piston and leaving the piston blocking the exhaust ports. I must admit I don’t know if the fuel sold in the UK has ethanol in it, I guess that is something else to look out for which may or may not have harmful additives. David I forgot to add that you should check out the carb repair thread if you haven't already and it's a good idea to clean out any old crumbly filter foam from the air filter housing, it can damage the engine if any of it gets sucked in. David
  17. factory

    Unknown applications

    Just been looking through some of the archived magazine articles I have saved from the web and found this drawing of a very similar looking pump set to the one in above picture. It's from the June 1961 edition of Popular Science and is described as a bilge pump. David
  18. factory

    O&R Type 98 Engine

    This arrived a couple of weeks ago, a fairly early 1960's type 98 engine, the paint colour is original as far as I can tell, I haven't seen another in this unusual colour. If anyone knows what tool it may have been used for please let me know. The tank bracket & strap needed a bit of adjustment and some screws, now reassembled. David
  19. factory

    O&R Type 98 Engine

    Also I had a go at bidding on a another type 98 engine (I asked the seller what type it was as it looked unusual), I didn't win it but here are some pictures of it showing the externally threaded PTO shaft mentioned in the parts list, together with an adaptor housing I haven't seen before. The adaptor housing looks like was attached to something flat, also note the long stop switch wire. Anyone seen one like this before? David
  20. factory

    O&R Type 98 Engine

    I've had a better look at the parts attached to the PTO shaft of this engine, it looks like an adaptor kit for something like a propeller, which doesn't help with identifying the original use. But I have found a reference in a parts list from 1964 for an externally threaded PTO shaft (part no. 42-39) being used on the type 98 engine, clearly mine doesn't have one, but it could have been changed as someone has definitely had this engine apart, the screws for the induction housing have been shortened too, so it probably had an adaptor plate or housing. David
  21. factory

    Mystery pump or compressor ?

    Does anyone recognise these dismantled remains of what looks like a small pump or compressor, which came with the dismantled O&R model L I got recently. David
  22. factory

    O&R Model L challenge

    This weekend I've finally had a bit of time to see if I could free up the seized piston, it was left to soak for a couple of days with some oil in the cylinder as I usually do, then I used the flywheel to turn it gently each way a little bit at a time until it was free. Once the piston was free to move, I could safely remove the cylinder without any further damage. It looks like this early engine had little or no use. I think I may have a spare con-rod somewhere, just need to locate it. Looks like it has the odd sized piston rings, although it shouldn't have according to a service bulletin (last used in 1961 with serial number 006072) as this is serial number 006403, I guess they still had a few left and used them all up. David
  23. factory

    O&R Model L challenge

    I collected a parcel a few weeks ago containing a mostly dismantled early O&R model L engine, complete with a seized piston & bent con-rod. I will see how far I can rebuild it, I know the cover for the clutch housing is missing as well as most of the screws. It seems to be quite rare to find the model letter still on the decal. A view of the bent con-rod. David
  24. factory

    New Additions

    That's a very nice restored chainsaw & hedge cutter, the engine with the reduction gearbox looks like new too (any idea what the type/model number is? I can try & find out the output speed if you would like). The parts engine looks like it may have come off a hedge cutter. David
  25. factory

    Bridges Mini-Mota 3 speed drill

    The fuel tanks seem to disappear on all types of O&R engine not just this drill, I guess the cracked one could be repaired (mine has been soldered on one of the seams). Do you know anyone that could make a new tank using the original as a pattern? (a model engineer maybe), unless someone has a spare tank of course. There are three possible part numbers for the con-rod depending on the age of the engine (due to bearing size changes over the years), if the engine dates from 1964 or later and is a Compact II (0.85HP) or Compact III (1HP) then the part number is 31-3 according to the information I have, the Bridges Mini-Mota manual in post four of this thread also gives the same part number. Early Compact engines (no HP decal but are 3/4HP) from 1960 to 1962 use part number 31-1, I am missing the 1963 parts list so can't confirm if part number 31-2 is for that year. Rupert Ledger & Co. Ltd of Airfield Estate, White Waltham, Maidenhead in Berkshire (also at 28 Mackenzie St. Slough according to an older service directory list) were the main sales representative and central warehouse distributor for Europe. Have you already found the other common problems with these engines, i.e. the carb diaphragm, air filter foam and sometimes the crankshaft seals? David