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factory

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Everything posted by factory
 
 
  1. I've moved the posts about the Drillgine parts to a new thread here: David
  2. Probably a bit late (I had to take a break following a bereavement), the needle valve assembly is very easy to break if overtightened due to being made from thin sections of brass. I'll have a look at mine to see if it uses the standard clip for the throttle cable. David P.S. I've moved these posts about the Drillgine parts from the TT thread to this new thread.
  3. Hope every things ok. Sometime we need to do things for one reason or another. best wishes. I'm OK, been very busy and had other things on my mind following a family bereavement, I've got a lot of catching up to do now. David
  4. That looks very nice, it's the Orline rebrand of the Varo Amp Champ, it should have the Varo details ground off on the generator. They look home-made to me, I can't help thinking if O&R or Varo had supplied those leads they would have crimped the wire directly to the alligator clips. David
  5. Here are some of the pictures saved from the ebay listing, together with some of my Orline Gusher pump. Lancaster MINI 1-BY-1 pump / MINI one-by-one water pump. Orline Gusher pump Model 570. David
  6. I've not been on here since last Tuesday and may be absent again for a couple of days over the next few weeks, I don't want to discuss why here. I've moved the post about the Lancaster Pump from the Aquabug thread to here. I never saw it either, not been on ebay the last week either, hopefully someone on here got it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/193236843806 It appears to be the Lancaster MINI 1-BY-1 pump or MINI one-by-one water pump that we hadn't seen before (at the time this thread was created), by the way this pump is more commonly known as the Orline Gusher pump sold by O&R. David
  7. I've moved the post about a Lancaster pump here; David
  8. Service bulletin SE-063 gives a cylinder to crankcase torque of 25 - 30ft. lbs. but there is no mention of how they do this using the cylinder removal tool. With new exhaust collector gaskets it should just be possible to turn the exhaust collector for positioning after the cylinder is tightened. David
  9. I've not been on here since last Tuesday and may be absent again for a couple of days over the next few weeks, I don't want to discuss why here. The service instructions gave information on how to make a cylinder removal tool, there is a thread on here where I posted about it. I've since found it easier to hold the engine block using a vice (with soft jaws) and to use what you guys call a 'crescent wrench' (or adjustable spanner in UK) to turn the bar I made, I found the round bar used was too easy to bend if the cylinder was very tight, also didn't fancy turning any of my screwdrivers into banana shapes. Making the cylinder removal bar longer than needed also allows you to file/shorten it when it wears on the edges. Note; Never attempt to unscrew the cylinder if the piston is stuck from dried out oil residue, doing so can cause the con-rod to bend & break. The slot in the top of the cylinder should either be parallel with the engine crankshaft or at 90 degrees to it, @Wallfish has already mentioned this and the service info posted by @JUST O&R also mentions it. David
  10. That price seems excessive to me, it doesn't have any extras like the manual, original box.... or the required (a spark). David
  11. You say it revved up before shutting down, did it rev higher than normal speed? If it happens again once you've rebuilt the generator check the governor vane hasn't fallen out of the butterfly valve in the carb. I had this happen with my first TT (Tiny Tor), the cause was the governor vane being bent in the wrong direction and it kept falling out. The early governor vane should sit up as shown below, if it's more towards the flywheel then it's bent. Note: the governor vanes vary a little depending on the age of the engine. David
  12. Good to hear it arrived OK, looking forward to seeing some pictures. David
  13. @tackdriver56 was the first to post about the carb diaphragm with the bonded disc, he used Seal-All to reattach it to the new diaphragm. David
  14. I'm not a fan of facebook myself but wish you luck with the group, if anyone on your group needs help with the O&R engines found on the earliest batch of Little Petro minibikes feel free to send them here. David
  15. If you want help with the engine production date, then the first three numbers after 13A246 will help date it to the year/month it was made by O&R. Note: this only applies to engines made after June 1967, which your Aquabug should be. David
  16. Thanks for sharing those pictures of your two Little Petro minibikes, I'm guessing the TAS P-54 is the engine specification with the reduction gearbox (transmission), finding any diagrams for these really early TAS (Tanaka) engines seems impossible. I'm still looking for an early TAS motor for my collection, but they don't seem as common in the UK. David
  17. Is that something you have plans for or looking to sell? I'm interested in a basket case. Kind of my specialty it seems Is that the one from posts #3 & 4? It looks a nice challenge. Anyone know how many of these mini-bikes are known to have survived now, a few more must have turned up since the first post from 2014 (possibly older than that as it was from the previous forum). There are a few more Little Petro minibikes with both O&R & Tanaka P7 engines and Jim Odom pictured with one here; 1/4 MINIBIKE (LITTLE PETRO) David
  18. I'm fairly certain the seller is @H Killackey , the restored bike in the ebay listing looks the same as the one in post #17. Also he was talking about having a few covers made, presumably to sell & help cover the costs of having them made. David
  19. Yes I would keep the original decal too. Just be careful with cleaning those later decals as they can be easily damaged, they look to be made from plastic film coated paper. I've seen three (four if you count yours) so far with a three blade propeller, most of these have a blue starter housing too, I wonder if they are slightly newer as they have a more robust looking throttle control too. David
  20. I've just bought a 1951 Ohlsson Rice catalog for the model plane engines, tether car & accessories (that predate the Compact engines), I will add some more pictures when it arrives. David
  21. Wow that is one of the nicest Aquabug's I've ever seen, doesn't look to need much cleaning at all. David
  22. You being the only resource back in the day is what got all of this started. Highly doubt I would've ever went past those first 2 engines if we never connected. I didn't know squat back then so your help and knowledge with the stuff was crucial in my collecting of O&R. Glad we started this because there really isn't any other place for people to go that I know of. Then people like David get involved and the knowledge base has grown to new heights because of his involvement and willingness share information. In a couple of years CNew will be coaching and suppling parts too at the pace he's going. Same here, I knew very little before I joined the previous forum after acquiring a Tiny Tor, but have learnt a lot over the years and also been researching & collecting information to help others. David
  23. That looks like a good donor engine , I used a bare engine block of similar age for my TT repair*, that ensured the parts would fit together with the remaining original parts. *My failed TT engine was SN #035753 (Type 111), it was bought as a pile of bits, it was missing the crankshaft, piston, con-rod and con-rod bearing. The donor engine block was #012461 (Type 98) which had been used for a RC application by a previous owner, hence lots of missing parts. Before & donor engine. Some pictures from the restoration, it's also the only TT I have with the generator end housing finished in chrome. One of the missing parts was the long truss head screw for holding the generator rotor in place, a new one was machined from scratch, OK I deliberately made it a little bigger in places. David
  24. There is the option to make new tanks too, if you can find the similar size food cans*, a screw top from readily available tins could be cut out and soldered in. The original O&R tanks are probably made in the same way as early (steel) beer cans were made in the US, I've seen a few in some of the abandoned mine exploration videos I watch on youtube and they looked similar in size & construction. *I've saved a couple of coffee cans for experimentation. David
  25. Thanks for letting us know, I will update the thread title to 'sold'. David
 
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