factory

Not very unusual, it's a Bulgin connector commonly found on vintage electronics, very sensible for it to be the version that normally gets fitted to a mains lead, that way you can't accidentality plug your 12V Turbair into the mains. Why they have used a 5A rated connector when the Turbair is rated at 10A I don't know.
 
Thinking about it there is a risk of a Bulgin mains lead being plugged into the battery pack, I can imagine the battery would get pretty angry if it had 240V connected to it.
https://www.plugsocketmuseum.nl/Bulgin1.html
 
David

Picked this up from Worthing on the South Coast today
 
Its a Turbair Sprite 12 volt sprayer. looks like new !
 
Unusual plug on it...
 
 
 

I have the 8th edition & the 16th edition (which is probably the last update for when they became AEP), I would have scanned the relevant pages, but as they still make a version of this book there may be copyright problems, hence why I stick to the stuff O&R sent out.
 
David

This model 60 aero angine arrived today with some useful literature
 
It's now on display with the others...
 
 
 

Hi Paul
 
Thanks!
I can only get access to two of them at the moment due to my garage being full...attached photos of both my outboard and one generator. The generator has all the original paperwork with it too which is great.
Here is one of my generators

Hi guys, I have an Aquabug in pretty much mint condition. Had it running last week for the first time in who knows how long. It is made by Perry with the Ohlsson Rice engine and doesn't look to have ever been used. Any idea the value?
I also have a couple of Tiny Tiger generators and a Hedge Trimmer all with O&R engines that I'm thinking of selling.
Cheers

Thanks David I will put that carb on the marine engine (blue cowling) in due course.
 
When the new batch of O&R decals arrive from the USA I will refresh the cowlings
 
 

That replica starter pull is very nice, once painted I guess anyone would have a difficult job telling it apart from the original.
 
The governor vane should look more like this (one I repaired on my very first O&R, a slightly newer Tiny Tor);


 
Earlier version on a Tiny Tiger;

 
And for completeness, here is a really early vane.

 
Later engines had a governor vane that used a fixed plastic blade, in two sizes depending on whether it was for a 13A or 13B engine.
 
David

Okay Factory was correct - I was able to remove the spool without removing that retainer for the spring. All I needed to do was to release the tension on the spring by removing the cord and letting it unwind.  I then just rocked the spool back and forth while pulling upward and after a minute or two it came off.  I will NOT attempt to remove that retainer clip.  I'll just clean and lubricate the spring in place.
 
Wallfish - thanks for the update on the shipment.  I'll let you know when it arrives.
 
I really appreciate all the help and correspondence on this forum. Thank you!

Just thought I would mention that the originals had a counterbore depth of more than 5/8", as this style of starter pull knob also had a spring hidden inside.
I really should have used a vernier, it's approx 1 3/4" in depth. Of course this design is weaker as a result, hence they are sometimes damaged or missing. Note: the end of the spring has rusted away, it should close up where the cord knot is.


 
David

The hole for the cord is 5/32" diameter and the counterbore is close to 9/32" diameter , I've double checked the depth with a vernier and it is 1.75" (1 3/4").
 
Good to know the spring & rubber spacer are still there, a few less parts to make.
 
David

The original baseplate is indeed aluminium, I had to make a base for my Tiny Tiger model 400 as it was also missing (they often are), one of the stalls at an engine show had an off-cut of stainless steel in the correct thickness at a price I couldn't refuse, aluminium would have been much easier to work with though.
 
I also made the little spacers that fit the screws between the base tank from paxolin rod.

 
The two screws are #10-32 with a slotted mushroom head, I had to order way too many to get the right size over here in the UK.
I never did found a source for the Acorn Pal-nut though, I believe the correct part is Palnut AC 1032 if you can find any.

 
David

One last thing to think about when making the new baseplate, I would advise not to drill the holes for the feet to the final size until you've bought some, again I've not found any the same as the originals.
 
David

After a couple weeks with no time to dedicate to these, I have an update:
 
On the Drillgine, I had to reinstall the starter pull cord and also fix the end of the recoil spring that sticks out through the blower housing so it would stay in place.  Then with the new diaphragm in the carb I was able to get her running. Chucked up a 3/8" drill bit and drilled some holes through a 2x4 to see how it ran under load.  Runs nicely.
 
On the Tiny Tiger, I had taken some carb parts and used them to get the Drillgine going and needed some other parts. Wallfish is in the process of shipping me parts he had this week. Hopefully that will get me further along to the point I can try to start it.  I still need the wooden handle for the pull cord.  It is the wooden longer black handle with ball end.  Would anyone have dimensions they would share with me (Thanks again DustyB for the awesome base diagram!) I'll need overall length, shank length, and diameter of ball end. If someone provides this information, I'll try my hand at turning one on the wood lathe.

I took the flywheel off to clean the points. When I reinstalled the flywheel I was tightening the nut with about a 6" long combination wrench. Suddenly it didn't feel like it was tightening anymore or like something was yielding. I didn't know the torque spec but was nowhere near 90 inch lbs. Anyway I fired it up and it ran fine for a minute or so while I measured voltage and frequency and then the engine quit. I noticed the flywheel had slipped and sheared the aluminum key. After making the new key I reinstalled it and used my torque wrench, this time set to 90 inch lbs, and the stud broke at about 70 inch lbs. Examining the break, from the color I could tell it had been partially broken long before I got the generator. Since then I have drilled and threaded the crank for a stud. The crank seems to be hardened and is difficult to drill but I got sufficient depth to install the threaded stud. Tomorrow I'll probably try reinstalling the flywheel and running it again.

The finished Nash Boadicea powered by O&R got a photo in my article in the latest issue of LAGT...
 

I would never consider using a steel flywheel key in a soft aluminum flywheel. It is just asking for trouble. It is common misconception that the flywheel key locks the flywheel to the crankshaft. That is not at all true. It only locates the flywheel for proper timing (in this instance). The taper on the crankshaft is what holds the flywheel in place. In olden days, racers would leave the key completely out of there hotrodded L head engines. As long as the flywheel was sufficiently tight you did not even need one. This allowed operators to change the timing of the engine to whatever their heart desired.
 
Chris

Another cutaway O&R engine, this isn't mine, it was on ebay a few years ago.
I wonder how many they made.
 
David

Here is my boat engine with the Waltron carb, I found out that it came out of a Fairey Huntsman boat, whoever bought the boat took the engine out & put it back on ePay, I forgot to save a picture of the boat.
 

 

 
 
Almost looks like an O&R Model 20A could bolt straight on to the Landmaster, pity the 20A's are so hard to find.

 
David

Quite a bit smaller but it still looks ok to me...
 
Before and after photos...
 
 

They can also be made using a saw & file from the correct thickness of aluminium sheet, or using a lathe & filing the height to match the original (or that custom sized one I had to make).
 

 

 

 
David

If you didn't already know, the carb circled below is a Waltron carb for model boat use, I'm surprized it isn't on one of the water-cooled engines from the lot.

 
This is the only information I have about it (archived from an ePay auction);

 
David

Appropriate decals arrived from the USA yesterday to finish the job off...
 
 

The broken con-rod has a twist to it, this happens when someone finds a stuck engine (usually from long term storage or running without oil) and unscrews the cylinder without first attempting to free up the stuck piston, guaranteeing a snapped con-rod.
 
I've only had one engine so far with a snapped con-rod, it was in an almost unused looking Champ generator which I suspect the original owner didn't bother to add any oil to the fuel, I did manage to remove the stuck piston but never could get the rings off it.
As it used the later 14mm cylinder & oiling had failed to move it, the piston got pressed out (do-not try this with older 10mm cylinders).
 
I've also had another stuck engine with a holey piston, that too came out without any more damage (left oil in cylinder over a few days/week).
 
David

This site is dangerous. Every time I login I see all of these 'new' O&R powered machines I have never seen before. I think I 'need' to step up my O&R game. That winch is adorable. How useful it would be is left to your imagination, but it would be pretty badass on a power wheels or something like that.
 
Chris