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K-TRON

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K-TRON last won the day on March 2

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About K-TRON
 
 
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  • Location
    Huntington, NY
  • Interests
    I have been collecting, rebuilding and restoring antique engines and machinery for more than 20 years. I have over 300 engines in my collection from .75hp to 575hp. I primarily collect Wisconsin Engines, Hall-Scott Engines, Detroit Diesels, Lister Diesels, Howard Rotavators, Maxim Snow Throwers, Quincy Compressors, Salsbury Scooters and just about anything inbetween.
 
  1. I have physically seen the King Portable Power Tree Tapper before, it is quite the setup for tapping trees Chris My G.H. Grimm is sadly not as intriguing, it is literally a backpack frame and an engine with a Jacobs chuck on it. It must have been the poor mans model of the King tapper. If this did not have a G.H. Grimm tag on it I would have chalked it up a homemade. Chris
  2. Did the previous owner say if it had a string head, a circular saw or a mower blade for trimming? I have a few weed whackers from the 1950s and circular saws were the latest and greatest in trimming technology. I am not sure when the first string head came about. The O&R certainly had the rpm to run a trimmer head, but maybe not the power. Bunton had a small machine setup like this with a vertical shaft power products engine and a small mower blade, maybe 8 or 9 inches. My oldest trimmer is a 1951 Hoffco Scythette with a 40cc west bend engine. It runs a ~20 inch sickle mower on two little wheels. The oldest string trimmer head I have is another Hoffco but with a 95cc west bend engine, built around 1958. Chris
  3. That is really neat. I have a G.H. Grimm tree tapper. It is nothing more than a backpack frame and a Power Products AH-36 engine with a Jacobs chuck on the crankshaft. I gather that this was a two person operation and the guy wearing the backpack was directed backwards to drill the trees by his partner. At 1.5hp it sounds sufficient in power. I did not know that there was an O&R gas powered drill other than the Drillgine. I have heard of a Homelite XL-12 powered drill, but I have never seen one. Chris
  4. Did O&R ever make a blade saw, which used the piston to actuate the saw? I have this piston in my collection, and it is identical to what Wright used in their blade saws, except that it is one half of the size in all dimensions. Surely someone else made a smaller blade saw that used this piston, just what it is, I do not know. There are no numbers stamped or cast into the piston. The piston is 1-1/4" o.d., the same as the later O&R engines. The thick rings are throwing me a curveball. I wonder if it is a salesman sample or something like that. If by any chance it is O&R, I would love to see what the machine looked like. Chris
  5. I am honestly shocked that this saw was fit with such an aggressive blade from the factory. I had tried a carbide tipped blade much like that and the belt continued to slip no matter how I adjusted the drive belt, and how slow I fed it wood. I suspect that the reason for this was due to the inherently wider cut made by the style of blade that I used. The teeth are very closely set on the blade I currently run, and it works well. Chris
  6. David, Yes the numbers are stamped on the cooling baffle. There is a sticker on the top of the engine which says that it was manufactured by Advanced Engine Products. Thank you for helping me decode the serial number. I like to hold as much correct information as possible about the engines in my collection. September of 1976 sounds about right to me. The literature and warranty card I have is printed 1970 and 1973, so it only makes sense that the engine was later. I had no idea that they were building thousands of these engines per month. You certainly do not see them very often anymore. The horsepower chart is also wonderful. I have not seen that before. I have the correct air filter for this engine, it is just not installed at the moment. Chris
  7. I have been busy inventorying all of my engines, and came across my old Drillgine. It has a model 13B 403 engine # 6092030. It is rated 1hp according to the sticker on the factory toolbox. In my search for information, I need to verify some specifications on this engine. Am I correct that the model 13B has a 1-1/4" bore, and 1.096" stroke, with 1.34 cubic inch, 21.9cc displacement, rated 1hp @ 6300rpm. I have found conflicting rpm numbers for the 1hp rating, 6300 or 7000. I have the year 1967 written down for it, is that correct? It starts and runs real good even after its four or so year slumber. Chris
  8. Very nice Comet C-SAW. I have one identical to yours. If you click my user name you should be able to find the thread I have on it on here. Mine is serial number 005495, which I believe was built in 1960. What is the serial number of the engine on yours? I have an 8-1/4" fine tooth 5/8" arbor blade on my C-SAW. It is about all that it can handle. I have tried more aggressive blades and the drive belt will slip. I really enjoy using this saw. I start mine every two to three weeks so that it doesnt loose its prime. If you need any dimensions or pictures just ask, mine is easily accessible. Chris
  9. When my O&Rs fail to start easily I hookup my rubber tipped blowgun to the breather in the fuel tank. With the air regulated down to 10psi, I use the blowgun to push fuel right into the engine. Pull the plug, check that it is not hydrolocked from fuel, and start it. I run clear tygon fuel line so I can watch the air push fuel bubbles out of the line. The diaphragm in my Comet saw was totally dead so it required constant maintenance to keep it going. With the new diaphragms from John it should fix that. If your O&R has a primer, you wont have to do this, unless it too has a bad diaphragm. If that is the case, hold the primer down and use the method above. Cross your fingers and it may start, it is an O&R afterall..... Chris
  10. It was great meeting you John. There is a lot of good old iron in your neck of the woods. I pulled this 1951 Howard Gem out of the ground less than a mile from where you live. You cannot pass up a JAP engine when the price is free.... I took the engine all apart, cleaned it up and put it all back together. I had it running pretty good for a while. Last weekend a raccoon eat the plug wire and chewed the Wico model A cap into pieces so now it needs some hard to find parts. Anyhow, I look forward to seeing you again. Maybe next time there will be time to view your collection. Chris
  11. Thank you for posting that information David! I was bidding on the O&R master service manual that ended on ebay Friday night. I was hoping to get the service manual cheap, but there was more interest than expected. I am glad you are able and willing to post alot of good O&R information, as that information is priceless when work needs to be done. I bent the brass starter dog spring as best that I could, but sadly it will need to be replaced sooner than later. I will probably make a new one out of a brass feeler gauge of the appropriate thickness shim stock. The starter dogs you posted have a larger counterweight on them than mine do, unless mine were modified at some point in time. Chris
  12. Clint, as best I can tell is that the recoil handle was never painted. Davids response parallels that. It does look nice now that the saw is cleaned up and in functional shape. The saw looked like hell when I bought it in Anchorage Alaska. I had found it on craigslist for $100 4500 miles away. It was used, abused and put away wet. It was a great buy even with shipping. It cost me next to nothing to fix it if you dismiss the amount of time it took to pull it all apart and go through everything. I really like gasoline powered hand tools. I wish Homelite had the same array of their cordless power tools just to display them nicely side by side. I had joined the O&R group in 2013 when I stumbled across a Drillgine with the later 1hp engine. It was a fine tool complete with the yellow carry box. Later I picked up an amp-champ, several tiny tigers, a polaris power pole, a military O&R, several parts engines, and of course this Comet C-SAW. This early O&R is the best runner of the bunch. Now that I know what to look for, I will keep an eye out for more of the early engines. I was watching that strikemaster ice auger on ebay, turns out my same friend in Alaska has one and bought it new for ice fishing. Chris
  13. I was going to order some Stens 146-027 #4 recoil rope, but decided that the rope I have should be good enough for several more years of use. I left it at the 37-1/4" length. I had a hell of a time getting the recoil pulley back onto the arbor. I cleaned up the burrs with a needle file, and of course the recoil spring jumped out. I was able to get it all back together and tested again before installing the recoil back on the engine. The pulley was grabbing and binding unevenly until I lubricated the shaft, then all was good. I took this opportunity to replace the five 6-32 machine screws which secure the recoil to the engine with some new stainless steel wire lockable 6-32 machine screws. Previously everytime I ran the engine the recoil screws would loosen up, so this should stop that from happening. I have to say this was by far the most painstaking recoil repair I have ever had to perform. I own over 300 air cooled engines, albeit most do not have recoils, but I can rebuild Briggs, Tecumseh, F-M, Kohler or Schnacke recoils in just a few minutes. This O&R was about seven hours of work start to finish. At least when it was all done, the engine started up and ran good. I am pretty happy with it. I will have to order or make a new diaphragm for the carburetor at some point. Spraying it with oil to make it plyable is only a temporary fix. As per the output shaft on the C-SAW, it uses a 1-1/16" o.d. steel pulley similar to the picture you posted in post #7. Thanks again for all of your help. Next time around, things should go much quicker. Chris
  14. David, Thank you very much for the links and the pictures. I was able to repair the recoil spring with some help from my acetylene torch. After heating and bending I quenched the end of the spring steel in oil. I have done this before on several other recoil springs that I have repaired over the years with good success. I was worried that my spring was from a different application as when I test wound it I was counting 9 turns, not 11. I simply did not have the spring coiled tight enough. It took several tries to get the recoil spring in place, but I managed thanks to your pictures. Now that it is assembled, my recoil spring is only about a sixth of a turn shorter than yours. I have never had to repair the recoils on any of my other O&Rs. I had simply just lubricated them and they worked. I did not realize how early of an engine that this is until I found nothing like it in the O&R pdfs I found online. I did not think they made hundreds of thousands of them. You certainly do not see them very often at engine shows. Does anyone have a spec on how long the recoil rope should be? I am measuring 37-1/4" end to end on the rope I have. Also can anyone verify if I installed the spring retainer properly. It seems a little loose, as in it can move around a little bit. Thanks Chris
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    K-TRON

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