HeadExam

Really nice find, I want one for my Massey because it has a rear discharge deck, cut and sweep in one pass. Wheel Horse offered rear discharge on many of their tractors. Side discharge isn't near as good.

Bloke been hitting the rice wine until he was blind drunk. I've been that drunk before, but not in that kind of population

Thank you very much for the compliments on the shop and tractors, I realise how very fortunate I am and try to always give thanks.

Great collection. It is really nice to see different brands not found in the states, especially that really resemble small tractors

BTW, the second 1556 that has the deck is not mine, it is a photo I found showing the parking brake knob

The screws are 5/16"-18x5/8" SAE the picture in the ebay ad just shows a generic screw picture, so I'm hope the head is as big and beefy as the original. I plan on replacing all 25, so I don't think it will look look too bad, and for 10.00 for 25 screws the price was right. They should be here any day now so I'll post a picture of the actual fasteners when they arrive. Also the parking brake knob is a triangle shape fluted knob, exactly like the later models, but red rather than black. Here's a picture of the knob below the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/400465627340?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

You know how us Americans are

Thanks OB, I have done business with him in the past, he got me a new drag link and some other parts. He's my go to guy, just wish he had more parts, I need some straps for the hydraulic oil tank and a parking brake knob. Previous owners keep me busy.

Here's a few more pics, of the garden equipment

I thought it would be best to remove some tin and power wash the old grease and dirt from the 1556. Heavy duty detergent/degreaser was in order more than a straight degreaser as I did not have hardly any of the gooey stuff. In the process I acquired a new OEM batter hold down, drag link, correct seat spring (going to have the old seat recovered), I also removed the pieces of wire that were used as hairpins and cotter pins and order 25 new Phillips head truss bolts for the body tin. I also replaced a #12 wire that the PO had used for the battery ground with a proper ground wire. I was missing a bracket and speed nuts on one side of the dash tower, but that was easily fabricated and I had the speed nuts. The hydraulic tank straps were make shift tin packing straps so I'm waiting on a OEM set to come around. Next, I'll remove, clean, and repack the wheel bearings and give all the grease zerks several good squirts. It appears that I will be removing the hood (bonnet) and wheels and painting the whole tractor. It won't be a proper job, but it will suffice and slow the aging process. Here are a few pics before and after the scrubbing, I'm next. The previous owner in fit of intellectual wisdom welded an extension on the front plow blade lift bar to use as the the tiller lift bar. In that one moment he attempted to destroy one piece in order to make another. I will be "removing the extension and acquiring the proper rear lift rod. His work on the the snow caster chute adjustment rod was of the same engineering quality. The snow caster was from an older smaller tractor, possibly a 733, and he needed to lengthen the rod. Rather than build a new rod, he cut the old rod and welded in a piece of rebar (the round metal rods used below cement), he was a regular Herbert Einstein he was.

500 wasn't bad at all for that haul. Rule of thumb, anytime it weighs more than you can carry, it's going to cost 500 Alain

I offered her one. I have 14 running at this point, but she wanted to walk for the exercise. She walks to get the mail everyday too, we've both lost a lot of weight recently, me almost 9 kilos and her about 12, mostly by cutting out the soda pops and fast food, we really don't have the money for fast food and it's been a long time since we needed to be anywhere "fast".

Haven't a clue what a Rotovater might set you back in GB, but here in the states one in that condition, surely will still fetch 150 US, maybe more. Even here Wheel Horse Rotovaters seem to be in short supply compared to other brands. The bearings and parts used in many of the Rotovaters as well as many other types of machinery were the same, but had different brand part numbers, a person good a cross referencing will save you a load of money.

Thanks OB.

Thanks to all, hope I can help. Alain

I don't know how much support or help I'll be, but I'll give it a whack. I actually thought I did this already, but as with many other things it got laid aside and forgotten about, sorry. Alain

It's what my house is called because of the notoriety of the second owner

Can anyone tell me the length of the rear tiller drive shaft on a 1963 Bolens 600, or if it is the same length as the later 1254, 1256, 1257 tube frames? Thanks

Still getting the old girl in fighting shape. I bought an original seat spring and new drag link. I'll have the original seat recovered. I'm selling the snow caster and tiller as they were for a smaller tractor, and I'm buying a flat back tiller like the one on my Large Frame 1476. She starts right up and sounds great.

The plant nursery is just over a kilometer away from the house and they had a huge sale along with free food and drink, several hundred townspeople in attendance. I drove the Massey MF-14 with the cart attached and the wife walked along side, she wanted the exercise, but from the looks everyone gave me I guess they thought I was a jerk for not letting her ride in the cart or drive.

My tunnel cover and dash tower are fitting tight, no way to move it rearward, unless the tower can go over the tunnel cover, I haven't got that far. I am also out of room to adjust the slot slot as well, its at its furthest point back.. I'm hoping I can adjust with the slots on the hood. Your doing fine mate, were all muddling through most of this anyway, and that's the fun of it.

Really helped ALOT, I never thought about moving the entire tower, I just thought about angling the dash. THANK YOU, Alain

Whats the trick to get the hood and dash to mate up flush and not overlap on my 1556. I tried putting spacers in the front where the hood attaches, but that didn't help, now I'm thinking its the dash that needs adjusting. Anyone have that issue? Thanks a bunch, Alain

Thanks for the advice about the screen enlargement, size is not the problem, just blurry, I had a "feeling" it was a 900, just a lucky guess

Wish my eyes weren't so bad. I miss being able to see details in picture like levers and such. Good call OB.