Alan

Looks good Chris, and Norm. Free too and no RED paint used.

Didn't take many but here are some of mine. Thanks for letting me play on the Roper Norm.

Thanks Chris for forcing me to attend with Half finished Half a Horse. A very good show. Also and Pam for the tea, coffee and munchie's.

Is drinking tea classed as fun. Saw Norm on the way down, via MoM's mobile spy.

The better hitch was on the front of the tractor. Anyway, it's a lot easier reversing while going forward. I think that makes sense.

As the chassis was getting close to needing a proving run before proceeding further, a seat of some sort was needed. A sheet of 3/16" alloy was marked and cut using a length of channel as a guide for the saw. Holes were drilled and a piece cut out to clear the gearbox. The test runs were made with bits of wood for footrests. Various positions were tried but it was difficult to sit in comfort. Sitting as far back as possible, the best option, resulted in the front wheels lifting. A roll of lead tied under the chassis cured this. I also tried kneeling on the platform, one hand on the engine to steady myself, and the other operating the steering tiller and throttle. All very awkward especially while bouncing over the rough ground. The runs were successful with just enough engine speed for the centrifugal clutch to engage and in first and then second gear. As camera man Mr Sutton wasn't available at the time, no video made. This was rectified on later test runs. I then set the steering and throttle and watched it run around in circles. Easier than trying to stop myself being thrown off.

Looks good Chris. Are you sure that's the same seat, looks too clean. The front hitch's are handy even though I was starting to get the hang of reversing a trailer. A not very flexible neck doesn't help. A few years ago John and I often had a loaded trailer front and rear. Something different. A trailer being towed is a trailer. What is a trailer called while being pushed.

Still on the subject of the early steering, I adapted an old two speed hand drill to use as a steering box. The idea was to have steering from the normal wheel and also from the rear while being towed on a trailer. As the engine drive shaft was on the center line, the steering column was diverted around it via 1/4 drive universal joints and various extension bars. The chuck ( removed ) end of the drill was extended with a welded in bar which just cleared the underside of the gearbox and protruded from the rear of the tractor. This would have been connected to a steering wheel on the trailer via another U/J and shaft. The drill winding handle / lever was connected to the track rod assembly with a short rod and swivel joints. This all worked OK but had excessive free play, mainly due to back lash between the drill gears. I eliminated some of this by drilling, tapping and inserting 4BA adjusting screws in the case which pushed the two bevel gears closer together but couldn't do anything with the helical and spur gearing. After lots of work, trying to keep the U/J's and extensions at the minimum angle, allowing clearance, trying various setups etc and LOTS of head scratching, this arrangement was discarded. As it appears that operation from a trailer is the way to go a much simpler mechanism is being worked on. I have a new idea occupying the brain cell which MIGHT also enable steering from the correct position but would need a half size driver. The following photo's show part of this early set up.

Count me in Chris.

You rotten s++ Chris. Both my favourite tractors now gone. Suppose I'll have to use the wheel barrow to tow the trailer now. Norm, can you rig up a hitch for it. ?

Only two weeks to RPT's Norm. Won't be completely finished but complete enough to show.

A piece of plate was found for the engine mount, cut to size and drilled. Two sets of holes, one to bolt the plate to the frame and the other set to mount the engine. With the crankshaft in line with the gearbox shaft the right side engine bolt holes were well clear of the chassis. The left side bolts were directly above the outer edge of the chassis. A lot of head scratching later resulted in the top outer edge being drilled and filed out, just enough to allow the heads of 1/4" UNF bolts to sit in the notches and be held reasonably secure while tightening the nuts. These notches can be seen in the third photo which also shows the seat and fender mounting plate with a rough fender mock up. More of these later. The rear plate mounting bolts passed right through the chassis. Due to the lower face being filed out for extra axle swing the front bolts had to be inserted into the chassis, through the top face and engine plate. A fiddly job but after assembling and taking apart a few times it got a lot easier. There was just enough clearance in front of the axle to pass the bolt, stuck on the end of an extending magnet, up through the chassis and plate. Not much clearance as said, which resulted in the magnet trying to get friendly with the surrounding metal. As there was a lot of jumping around on various parts, due to getting stuck while looking for suitable materials or thinking how to do it, I have lost track of the exact build order but never mind. The next few photo's are of the early steering mechanism, later scrapped for a simpler setup. As seen, bits and pieces were bolted together until I had something which worked reasonably well and also had steering lock. This can be seen in these top views. The idea was to remake with fewer parts, but as said, a better arrangement was thought of. The cranked plate, after lots of adjustments, touched both the chassis sides and spacer, stopping the wheels from turning too far. It would have been better with the stops at the axle ends but couldn't see an easy way to do it. No obvious problems occurred during the later test runs so maybe I could have left it as it was. A temporary tiller steering was fixed up for these test runs which worked well, sort of. The handle end was close to the engine exhaust which resulted in an overheated hand. This was cured by swinging the handle around 180 degrees. These last photo's show the arrangement. Blocks of wood clamped to the chassis with the tiller from a cut down mower gear lever.

While at our favourite, favorite for those of you across the pond, hunting ground yesterday, Chris decided to tow one of John's caravans to a more scenic spot. It had been tucked away hidden from view for years. Chris thought it would make a nice tea and chat room for the many visitors we get to view John's rapidly decreasing piles of scrap metal and general junk. I was a bit dubious but Chris reminded me that he had years of experience towing caravans, old and new, for one of the main dealers. Reassured with this news I said go ahead and went off to attend to others matters. A few minutes later Chris came looking for me with a VERY RED face. "I'm sorry" he managed to force out of his mouth, floods of tears rolling down his cheeks, and his lips trembling. "I've had a little accident, don't know how it happened, but it could have been the rough ground, that's my excuse anyway and I'm sticking to it". I was horrified. A perfectly good caravan RUINED. " It's never happened to me before, Chris managed to mumble", before bursting into more floods of tears. At this stage I began to feel a bit sorry for him and made him ANOTHER cup of tea. After he had regained his composure and started to look a bit more cheerful, he asked if I would take a photo of him posing as if he had just killed a wild animal. You can see this photo below. It was decided that repairs could probably be made without having to claim on Chris's insurance, which was just as well as he informed me that he didn't have any. Anyway, for those of you with weak hearts, close your eye's before viewing the photo's below. Finally, if you decide to get Chris to move your caravan, make sure it is well wrapped in bubble wrap or cotton wool. You have been WARNED.

When you've finished there Norm, there's lots more to cut at John's.

The original sprocket and part of the tubular shaft, both too large in diameter, were cut from the clutch housing. This was extended with a correct length and diameter replacement which was a VERY tight push in fit. For push in I should say helped with a hammer. This was drilled for a roll pin as was the replacement sprocket. Although the other end looked like it would never move this was also drilled and pinned while I was at it. The gearbox sprocket was not in line with it's big brother on the axle. It needed to be moved inwards about 1/4". A slice was carefully cut off with a thin cutting disc in my Dremel, held as steady as possible as these discs break almost by looking at them. I got almost all the way through before the disc mounting shaft bottomed out. The last bit was done from the opposite side. No photo's of this operation but before and after shots with the sprocket back on the gearbox. The section cut off, first photo, now moved to the outside.

This photo shows the chassis on 4 wheels, still with the first style front hubs and with new tyres fitted. Tread wrong way around I know, wheels just roughly mounted. The front tyres are 9 x 3.50 x 4 made for mini motor cycles fitted to the Bolens 4" hubs. The 9" tyre was better proportion wise than the 10" previously fitted although I have not been able to find an inner tube with a straight valve. The bent valve finished up hard against the rim when inflated. A little mod later improved things. No photo of this yet. The height difference of 2:3/4" between the engine and gearbox shafts can be seen. Just by chance an old Picador double bearing found at John's had the same C/L's and with a slightly cut down base was a perfect fit. Now what to use to transmit the drive from top to bottom. Sprockets and chain from old mowers were dug out. Most were too large to fit between the frame or were double sprockets. The smaller sections were cut off and after trying various combinations things started to look workable. After trying various chain lengths, too short or too long, a cut down mower tensioner was fitted but didn't look right. Another sprocket was found which fitted between the frames but had the wrong ID. This was bored out and welded to the gearbox sprocket ( thanks Chris ) after mounting the pair on a suitable size bolt. After this, the existing keyway in the small sprocket was used as a guide to file out the larger one. The result was a nice tap fit on the gearbox shaft and key and also after altering the chain did away with the need of the tensioner although this could be refitted later.

And he has a BIGGER trailer now.

There will still be things going North. Got a little pile already.

Still got the front axle from the yellow Bolens Norm. Yours if you want it. Similar to the Westwood.

Can't remember exactly when, but part way through the early stages of the build it was thought a good idea to see if the engine would run. It had only been roughly assembled up to now so carb cleaned, new fuel pipe fitted, bolts tightened and so on. The recoil starter was a problem. I had 3 of these, 1 complete and 2 in pieces. The complete unit was fitted but locked up when the cord was pulled. I had this apart 4 times before finding the problem. A missing spacer washer. Wasn't sure if this washer should have been there but it did the trick. One of the other units had one, the other didn't. After the 4th assembly I was getting the hang of fitting the recoil spring. Clamped to the bench, petrol in the tank, starter pulled, and pulled and pulled, nothing. No spark. Cover off, points cleaned, they were furred up, and away it went. There was a knock which appeared to be from crankshaft end float. A PM to Richard ( Anglo Traction ) who suggested that the knock might disappear when the engine was under load. This proved to be the case. Thanks Richard. A few bench test runs followed and the engine appeared good to go.

As the front axles were 3/8" and the Bolens wheel bores 3/4", bushes to fit both were required. A hunt through my bits and pieces for something suitable drew a blank and nothing found on the internet. I could probably have made these up on my Unimat lathe but no suitable material to hand at the time. I came up with a different idea using parts lying around. New axles were made using 10mm coach bolts and nuts, stainless tube and 10mm bolts. The tube was threaded10mm internally each end, it was luckily close enough to the correct tapping size. One end was screwed onto the cut down coach bolt after fitting it to the angle iron hub, the wheel retaining bolt fitted in the outer end. Suitable bronze bushes with the correct ID and OD from the spares box finished the job. These look a bit over the top but didn't take long to make. Took longer looking for the bits. The king pin was left at 3/8". Weld between the two inner ends made the unit extra rigid.

I DO, I DO, and I've already TOLD you. Too much tea today has watered your brain down Chris.

The Bolens axle was cut down and drilled. The shorter end didn't need altering. The length was just right and the original wheel retaining bolt hole was also used for the model. The other end was a pain in the ++++ though. Tough to hack saw through, although it could have been worse, but the 5/16" hole was a ( censored word ) to drill. Finally got through with an assortment of drill bits, cutting compound and my lashed up drill press using various speeds and lots of naughty words. Luckily I only had to drill this one side. Now, what to use for the front axle bushes. A long time was spent looking through my piles of bits and weighing up all the options. Some bits had the correct OD but too large on the ID and so on. Still wanting to use what I had to hand, a piece of engineering plastic was used. Not sure, but I think this is Delrin or Acetal or similar. A short piece was tapped into copper tube to hold it rigid while drilling in my Unimat lathe. I was surprised to see blue swarf as the material is black. After drilling up to 1/4", the bore was opened up on the drill press. Can't remember the drill size but slightly under the OD of glacier bushes which were tapped in afterwards. These had an ID of 3/8" which was the bolt size I used for the king pins. If these bushes were later found to be unsuitable they could easily be changed. So far, with a few test drives that the Showman and I have had over rough ground, no problems have been found.

Me too Nigel. I think Chris took those two photo's especially for me.

Mine too. Thanks Kev.