Daren89

SUCCESS...!!
 
Another TT300 comes back to life. Wallfish, without you this would have been just another one of those non-running display models. I cannot thank you enough...

This WAS a nice NOS chicken power unit in the original box too
It's been packed way in the back and has been there for a very long time. 2012 maybe?  Pulled it out today and discovered the ruined unit. Mice made a home in the box and the urine covered thing now needs a complete overhaul and paint.

Took a break on this for a little while to fix the ignition on a Tecumseh powered Blue Star welder.
 
So I was able to cut the carb spring shape from the spring steel material. Edges were sightly rough but a little filing took care of that. I reassembled the carb with the new spring and reproduction carb diaphragm and check valve. It fired right up after priming the lines with fuel using a little air pressure! Only adjustments I've made is the mixture screw to get the rpms right for the correct voltage.
 
Calling this one done for now I guess. Might need to keep an eye out for another OR tool to rebuild!

Might be cheaper to buy another engine than that piston.
 
The gaskets for the induction housing & reed valve must be the same thickness as the original, they changed them at some point in production.
 
David
 
P.S. With ePay links you can cut off everything to the right of the item number & it'll still work.
Eg. https://www.ebay.com/itm/193890235267

Yes he does have an O&R with the Octura rotary valve (& water cooled cylinder), but it was a bit camera shy when he was restoring it , hopefully another will turn up eventually as I wouldn't expect it will need opening up anytime soon.
 
It's now in the White Heat in the first post here;
 
David

What number is a waste of time? Yours could be $350 and below while mine is anything over $125. There's a guy on Epay with a circular saw priced at $1000 which is completely ridiculous, but obviously he believes it's made of gold. So one never actually knows where that line is. I don't put much value in a running engine because I can always rebuild it and get it running, while someone else may not have the skills to do that so running is the important thing.
Why not just say what you want for it and save everyone's time to begin with since you already know what you don't want to except?
Yes it's not very common but it's also not complete. It could be less likely to find those missing parts than it would be to find a complete machine.
Maybe ebay is the best way to determine it's value?

My Comet C-SAW has turned 60 years of age, and I thought that there would be no better present for it than to finally install the new diaphragm gasket I picked up from Wallfish a year and a half ago in Worcester. The old diaphragm was hard and brittle and simply beyond use. I was able to limp it along these last few months by removing it, soaking it in light machine oil, and reinstalling it wet. With the new diaphragm installed the little O&R started up and ran just perfectly. You can hear the little air vane governor working as it powers its way through some wood I had laying about.
 
 
Chris

I’ll add some more photos later but I’m now one with O&R... while working on the cutoff saw I was trying to remove a set screw/bolt with quite a bit of force. The slotted head snapped and the screwdriver skewered my hand between my thumb and pointer finger. I ended up at the ER yesterday and when they did x-rays they saw a piece of shrapnel. Apparently half of the screw head that snapped off went with the screwdriver blade and got lodged deep in my hand. I go in for surgery tomorrow morning for them to try to fish it out. You can see in this first photo the half of the screw that chipped off.
 

 
Piece of the screw removed from my hand this morning...
 

This one isn’t mine, sadly. I was contacted for a carburetor diaphragm and gasket. I requested permission to post these photos as I thought you all would enjoy this one. I’ve not seen this winch before, how about anyone else?  Looks to be made by Irvington out of Portland, OR.
 

Finally all back together. I don’t have a natural wood knob so I have a black one on there temporarily.  It has really strong compression now and spark but I haven’t tried to run it yet.

That's a cool tank where did you find it?

Got the recoil done and all back together. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to get it to run. It’s got spark and it sort of sputtered a couple times with the choke but never really got any signs of life at mid choke or run. Sort of seems like it’s not getting fuel for some reason. I mounted a temporary syringe of fuel above the carb and that didn’t work either, even after priming the carb several times. Strange, always a bummer after doing a complete rebuild...  walking away for now and will try again another day...
 


Ok, so I just couldn’t leave it alone. It always drives me crazy not being able to get‘em going so I decided to give it another go.  I cleared the carb again and adjusted the needle. Fired right up, sounds great!  I’ll have to test the generator function the next time I run it. Now I can sleep tonight...

Painted and ready for mounting.
 

On Ebay not mine www.ebay.com.au/itm/Orline-chainsaw-Ohlsson-rice-vintage-chainsaw-orline-o-r-parts/274449834218?hash=item3fe67c20ea:g:upMAAOSwmlZfKkEi&frcectupt=true Daren

Re: Metric Bearings
 
Almost all ball bearings are metric because ball bearings were invented in europe. Conversely almost all tapered roller bearings are imperial since they were invented in the US. You can order either as specials in other units but generally speaking thats the rule of thumb. 

I just finished swapping out the points. That seemed to do the trick. I think the points that were in there weren’t really making a connection, they seemed to be worn at odd angles or someone sanded them poorly. Just ran a carb worth of gas, sounded great. I may rig up a small tank tomorrow so I can try to run it a little longer.

While not unusual or anything I was happy to land a NOS military engine with the original box and packaging for the tank and air cleaner. This engine is pretty much pristine and never been used.  Best part was I got it at good price.

Just an example of the make-shift gaskets I’m running into...
 

Got the urge to play with the drill press out in the 120F garage. Decided to build another stand.  I think this one will be good for engine test runs.
 

Balance is actually not too bad considering the fairly odd design. Compared to trimmers today, this would be quite clumsy, especially for extended periods of time. Having the engine and therefore all the weight down at the head does make it feel like it could get unwieldy.  It’s cool having one handle be the gas tank and the other handle the air cleaner. Someone was definitely thinking outside the box...

Got the fan all cleaned up and did the carb but then just wanted to see, hear and feel it run. Still need to do a yellow tank and the fuel line

 

 

IMG_0665(1).MOV  

Couldn't resist the urge to go out and tinker again after seeing Terry @JUST O&R on that skateboard. That was great stuff and glad we finally wore you down to go out and give it a try.
So, Got'er some more friction with a big azz spring and some more tire pressure. It won't carry me up the slight incline that well but gets moving going down.  The biggest thing I noticed was my ever increasing bald spot.
The ball's in someone else's court now!
 
 

Here are some pictures of the Champ generator now the engine has been reattached, taken in-between the rain today.

 

 

 

 
David

The same Klinger Statite* gasket paper (cellulose fibre based) I've had for a long time, I bought a selection of small sheets in six sizes from 6 thou to 63 thou years ago. The size I used for the induction & feather valve assemblies for this engine was 6 thou, some later engines use a thicker size and towards the end they changed to using an 'O' ring seal (no paper gaskets).
 
*The smaller sizes of Statite seem to have been discontinued, Flexoid also have the same type of gasket paper in the UK, similar gasket paper should be available from other companies depending where you are.
 
 
I have an industrial punch kit that also has a compass based cutter, it came from a business clearance company on ePay years ago for a third of the usual price, I suspect a lot more clearance stuff will appear later in the year from companies that are struggling at the moment.
It got used again the other day to cut some more air filter foam, there is a point that can be fitted to the centre for locating the punches if you use two sizes that fit in the same place on the tool.

 
The Olfa cutter looks a better choice if you only have a few engines.
 
David

I use one of these Olfa circle cutters. For a couple gaskets here and there it actually does quite well, especially for the price.
https://olfa.com/craft/product/compass-circle-cutter-cmp-1/