Fix'em all

I have a later style Merry Tiller with a 5hp Briggs I/C engine that is refusing to start & is stretching my normally good diagnostic skills now. It is fuel related as it will start when I tip fuel in via the air filter but once it stops it will not draw fuel into the carb. It is pumping up into the raised chamber in the tank but that is as far as it will come. So far I have cleaned the carb thoroughly including under the mixture screw. When you blow through both the pipes on the bottom of the carb it is all clear with no obstruction. I have fitted a new diaphragm and there is a good seal between the carb & inlet manifold. Any ideas what I can try as I am stumped now

In my experience 90% of the time cleaning the points will get the spark back. Hope the carb is ok as that type can be a bit of a pain to work on and tend to leak fuel when the engine is not running.

Picked up this little tool yesterday. Obviously old but does anyone know how old it might be.

Will the Briggs engine live again. It appears to have an offset drive gearbox fitted to it (not sure of the correct name for it).

Have now got the second of my 2 for a fiver rotovators running after two attempts at purchasing the correct points for the Aspera engine. I am interested in finding how old this rotavator is if anyone can help. The Aspera engine has engine code HL30-M166/31 and serial no 214026. The Landmaster serial no has been hit by a few rocks over the years but I think it is D18698 The engine is red in colour with a decorative pattern pressed into the pull start cover.

Is there a good seal between the carb & engine. Is there a mixture screw on the carb & was this removed & cleaned inside.

Presuming it has a float & needle valve, are they allowing fuel in as they should.

Finally got the little JAP 80 engine running today but removing the flywheel was hell's own job. They don't have a keyway on the shaft so the shaft and flywheel are tapered and once on they want to stay on. I had to drill into the ally flywheel right next to the shaft to release it's clamp on the shaft. Luckily I drilled into the shaft a bit. I used this to re-align the flywheel, as there is no way of knowing which position is correct without a keyway.

Ok cheers. The info I have is 2 turns out on main & 1.1/4 on idle

Can anyone help please. I have got my recently purchased K181 engine running but I think the carb needs the mixture screws setting. There are 2 mixture screws that I believe are low & high idle & an idle speed screw. I am not sure which of the idle screws is which (one on top & one at a 45 degree angle on the side).

Picked up this unusual machine this morning. Have got the missing bits in a box. Fitted with a 2 stroke JAP 80 engine that is all ther e but has no spark (usual suspects no doubt). Made by English Powerspades Ltd who appear to have ceased trading in 1968. Looks quite well made & is certainly heavier than the Gardenmaster 85 that came with it. Made a bit of a mess of this (it skills failed again) more photos

I did see an electronic ignition conversion kit for under £19 on fleabay. Are these known to be poor quality

What make are the 3 finger bar mowers next to the Vivian Lloyd

Picking this up Monday. It has no spark so I presume it will be points or condenser as most likely culprit. Anyone know if spares are readily available.

Many thanks, I presume this would have been on one of the larger Howards

Morning all, can anyone tell me what this engine is please. Advertised locally but not seen it yet

Sometimes when cleaning the jets in the carb, there are hardened deposits that carb cleaner alone does not shift. I find a wire from a wooden handle wire brush is perfect for poking out blocked jets without damaging the jet

Steph, there is a complete Aspera HSB40 engine with 2 hours left on fleabag. Looks like it's in your part of the country too. I don't know if the carb is the same but it looks similar

Thanks Wristpin, no worn or broken parts in the end. It was all tight on the shaft and just needed grease

I only had a quick look yesterday & the outer casing of the clutch was red in colour. I seem to remember there is a hole for a grubscrew or roll pin (couldn't see which). Is this how it comes away from engine. Certainly when it was working the spring inside is quite strong as the handlebar lever needs a bit of pulling. Does this help i n terms of identifying which type it is. Cheers, Ian

Appreciate some advice on this if anyone can help. My dad uses on old 19" Harrier 2 & has lost the drive. The drive cable seems to actuate a lever that engages the drive. Need to get this apart but it's not that clear how this is done.

Thanks for the advice guys. I had to get the grinder out again & cut the collar & both sprockets off. One thing I hadn't noticed was that the raised tags on right hand roller had all sheared off (I even posted a photo & still didn't see it). Not sure Hayter would do it this way but I cut a triangular v out of all the wide tags and bent up one of the 2 tags it created on each section. Well packed with grease & works a treat

I have got a bit further now but as mentioned I did end up cutting the sprocket off. I have ordered the freewheels but cannot work out how the old ones are removed from the shaft. Any advice gratefully received. Cheers, Ian

Thanks for your comments, just been for a quick look & no sign of any roll pin. Will try to get a puller on it and a bit of heat. Is there any way to tension the chain or will it need to be replaced. It is far too loose & came off & jammed the drive up.

Hi all, I have unfortunately volunteered to replace the roller freewheels on my brother in law's Hayter Harrier 56 & finding it challenging to say the least. I have managed to remove one half of the roller but am I correct in assuming that the sprocket needs a puller to remove it from the shaft. The circlips have been removed from both sprockets but the large sprocket is not moving. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers