Anglo Traction

You may prefer to go down the route that Stormin suggests, but depends what your plans are for it, if you want to keep it to original spec, then you will need this info-

There is another part number for the Unit that has a 14 3/8" long HT Lead, but suspect yours will be the shorter one.

They are still common-ish available online i.e. Bay of E, but one will set you back about £30.

Before you write the Coil off, have you checked-

1-The strength of the Magnet on the Flywheel.

2-The Air Gap between the Flywheel and Armature pick up Legs  (should be 0.006"-0.010" or 0.15-0.25 mm).

3- Spark Plug and ground connections?.

Look's a useful machine. 

Received a few more images that show a bit more detail after it has had a little brush over

I like the simplicity of this mower, which obviously is designed for light cutting producing a quality a sward finish.

At least there is the remnants of one Wooden Roller to take measurements from. Just hope the Cylinder is salvageable.

Even has the original Start Rope with Toggle.....looking promising.

Hope to get down to collect it at the end of the month.

.

I may have found what it is?. It look's very much like the Atco 20" (SF9 Model) Side Wheel Mower.

It ties up with the late 50's purchase date. Hoping more images from different angles will confirm it.

Think I'll have to pay a visit to Dorset and see it for real. Also an excuse to visit a few fellow habitual 'Wheel Horsers' .

I've been offered this to work a miracle and bring back to life by a good friend of mine, but only seen it in the pic form from this angle so far and don't know how far gone it is, or if it is a push or self-propelled  -

 Purchased new by his father.

Believe it is an Atco of late 50s- early 60s. Look's like a 98cc Villiers Midget 2 cycle. Grass Box was believed to be of Ali and Canvas. Hopefully the Box and the manual for it will be located.

So, I'm hoping someone will come up with some details on it, as I need to know if it is worth the challenge, time and cost.  

 Wow, that looks fantastic Richard! I love the way you take the time to polish the aluminum up.   I'm curious as to what was wrong with the generator, as it really looks quite good inside, and with the crosshatch still showing in the engine, it can't have much time on it. Matt

Thanks Mark and Matt,

                                   These not-so-new light - med duty B & S engines are growing on me. I'm shining up the Ali Crank Case to avoid having to paint those parts. Not a great deal of effort or super polished finish, rather a service wipe clean, blow the dust off type of finish. I Iike the result though -

The generator part stopped producing juice while in use for some reason over 30 years ago (according to daughter of the original owner). I'm still hoping to find the fault (not me) and see if it can be repaired, hence the shaft being still attached to the Engine.

The plastic centrifuge cooling fan is a gonner, as it fell apart when I got the cover off, so need sort that somehow  .

Collecting parts to finish the engine tomorrow, shroud is going in the E- Bucket tonight  .

Managed to put a few hours in over the weekend and did a full top end check and clean up on the Engine. All in great Spec condition,  even has the Hatch marks still visible in the bore from the original Honing. Valves and Seats are real good and just need to lap and refit them- 

Top of the Block and Head mating faces were levelled/trued up for a good fit and some time spent fettling the Fins etc to improve airflow.  Well worth saving this one.

What I the Engine Model number Norm?. I have a B & S Manual, but it's for engines up to about 1981

Edit- Just noticed in my manual that all pre 81 engines have a point gap of 0.020" , May have remained the same on later engines?

That look's like a real labour of love Garreth......Cars are now way beyond my capabilities.  Hope the good weather holds. 

Spent about 5 hours helping out tidying the grounds down in Billingshurst, West Sussex yesterday.

Got the 42" cut Mower put back together and cut half of the 3 acres of lawns. Another very pleasant sunny day. Everything is growing at a fast pace now. Here's just a fraction of the grounds-

Good fix, nice work Darren  . Those NPT threads on U.S Engines are not easy to accommodate and BSP are not a proper match.

looks brilliant richard, what are you going to do with the jenny part? Koen

Not sure yet Koen, it would need a bearing support where the Engine's shaft enters if it is to be used on something else.

There isn't a lot going for it at the moment if separated, as it has a large heavy 'Ballast Resistance Box' attached to it, presumably to absorb 'No Load' current, but then I know nothing about Generator Electrics. There are no isolation switches, so it produces power to sockets etc as soon as the engine is running.

A bit of progress with 'Operation Dynamo' separation. Managed to withdraw the shaft and engine with care and very little effort, once I realised that the rear Bearing will just move with the shaft and the Woodruff Key removed-

The Casing/Windings are real heavy with all that Copper in it and look's good inside, except for a few flakes of varnish from the Bandings-

Big Dyno for a 1.5KVA output. Before I scrap the Dyno part, I'll speak to a 'Sparks' friend I know and see what can be done. 

Having a bit of a struggle with this Unit Matt  . Tank cleaning has reached the limit of my attention now and will do. Even rescued the Cap, but will replace the Breather Washer in it with a leather one. I also attacked the Air Filter, which is also a mess-

So all the Fuely bits are prepped -

But maybe I should have prioritised the separating of the Engine and the Generator part first. I'm struggling to find out how to separate them. they just don't want to part, so more head scratching is required and will put this back on the 'To - Do' list, as I want the engine to run my Vintage Jabsco Water Pump.  

P.S. The long grass seen in the pic was cut this morning  .

The part for the 3/8" chain option has arrived and seen in this image (right) for comparison, along with the new Bar-

Fits perfectly. The original Chain Bar is being restored to the black painted finish. Original 1/4" Chain is now as new and will I'll carry out a test to see how each chain size performs. Meanwhile it is all ready to do some cutting, hopefully tomorrow -

Having got all the crud and rust out of the Genset tank now through several stages of cleaning, I'm going to see if the final process does the job. There had been an ingress of water during it's long dormancy and rusting had set in.   

Being a tank that has an internal Fuel bowl, it is not easy to get all the surfaces clean with just stones.

So into the E- Bucket with it-

I've used 3 Anodes, one in each aperture so as much of the internal surfaces are exposed to the process.

I'll do this 3 times and finish with the stones, then a final internal and external. So I hope it's worth the effort  .        

Good strong looking unit Mark.

It's a Peerless Transaxle model 2300-2304 (a) . don't know what machines they were fitted to, but maybe Sears or similar. 

Here's a link to an PDF  IPL for it- 

http://www.odref.com/peerless/2300-SERIES/2300-2304A.PDF

Edit- Here's the Teccy Handbook that covers it , size about 4.5mb - http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/Tecumseh-Peerless_Motion_Drive_System_-_Transmissions_&_Differentials(691218).pdf

Nice bit of Kit and useful output. AA1 is representative of build date anywhere between 1964-1992 such was the 'soundness' of the design. I believe they are a pig to start though?.

Oh you've just brighten my afternoon Norm. Lovely little engine, especially when it was built by your Dad.  

Here is a link for you to peruse-

http://www.maidstone-engineering.com/henry-greenly-archive-1-scale-model-engineer-traction-engine

Thanks for the pics   

 Yuck!! That tank was nasty. I wish we were closer, as I have one of those tanks in near mint condition with no home.  Matt

Very considerate of you Matt thanks. I may come back to you as a last resort if I consider the cost to be worth it.

yuck, that stuff looks like asphalt. Koen

and

That's filthy Richard!

Yes guys, the stuff is like a brittle crust. I'm going to give it a chance and see if I can clean it.

I have an inspection camera that will see inside it after I have given it a few cleaning stages. If it look's like impossible, I'll junk it.

Too wet outside for that job, so amongst other things, I'm cleaning up a few bits on the old rescued 1964 40plus Seagull Outboard.

The all brass Fuel Tank has very few small dents in the ends, very rare. Spotless inside now after a handful of clean Pea Shingle successively mixed with Petrol, Cellulose, Vinegar, Soap and Water has done it's work.

Here's a before and so far comparison -

Had a chance to check the underside of this beast the other day.

Checked and found it has a really good bright spark  .

Clean Disc, Blades are very good and just need freeing up.

No holes in the deck area, only surface rust and caked grass. Tyres good-

At the drive end, all look's good with a little Oil creep and grease weep around the joints.

Clutch Pivot is seized (frozen), so nothing serious hopefully.

Going to check all the Clutch/Drive parts over.

Being an older model, the Wheels are retained by Castellated Nuts 'n' Pins, so should be straight forward.

Still deciding if this is fixable. Several problems with the generator part.

I thought I'd see if the Engine could be fixed up, as I know the Block parts are all good.

Carb was questionable, but I've cleaned and freed it all up.

No spark, weak Flywheel Magnets and the Fuel Tank is a mess inside.

The fuel has been in there for at least 30 years and the colour/consistency of molasses.

Really pungent and found this crud in the bottom-  

Going  to be a pain to clean out, but I'll persevere and work on it in between the other projects. 

Well the Bluebells are real early this year. Spotted these today while testing the chainsaw. 

Another week and there will be Lime Tree Leaves in my Salad  . 

Thanks S1g, Bit of a worry about the Tillotson Carbs.  Beaird-Poulan used/use both makes. This early one is the HU-10A, so I hope it holds up ok.

The Carb kit arrived and fitted yesterday. Final Fuel Tank clean done (very clean initially).

Here is another comparison pic of the Poulan with my Mac 335-

So I just had to give this a try, even though I have not sorted an Air Filter or fitted the Bar/Chain yet, but I had to have the cover off anyway to ensure fuel flow and adjustment.....It Lives !. After nearly 30years , it fired up on the second pull. 

Re-adjusted the Hi-Low mixtures as they were way out and now runs real smoothly  .

The good bit is it is virtually free of any vibration through the Rev Range. Didn't run it for long, but real happy with it.

Clutch Drum Sprocket should be here in the next week, then take to the Woods time for some cutting trials. 

Good Tractor and bits haul there Chris,

Can't help wondering that as it was April 1st when you posted this, that you were trying to catch us out .

Or I'm looking too close for discrepancies. The front left hand (flywheel side) wheel had morphed into a pre '76' version between the pics of it in the Van and on the ground  . 

Thanks Matt, I had to address the Flywheel issue on this due to the fact that this Chainsaw has none of the modern Comforts and Protection. 

It has no Anti-vibration system, so I wanted to keep it to a minimum, stop my teeth chattering and keep the 'Feeling' in my hands/arms !  .

Had a bit of a delay in firing this up. Decided I should give the tiny Carb an overhaul as it uses Flap Valve diaphragms and a vacuum pump, even though it was very very clean inside.

New OEM Tillotson Service Kit on way from U.S. , so I know it is all good as new. should be here in a few days.

Carb ready to re-assemble -

Also now (finally) found and ordered a Clutch Sprocket today (from Canada) that will take the later (more common) 3/8" pitch Chain and still use the original Clutch parts. I have the new 14" bar ready.

It was a bit of a challenge to locate the Spocket, as I have no IPL or Manual yet for this Model, but there are lots for the later different models and several differences in dimensions of parts used.

It means I can use the Saw and conserve the original 1/4" Pitch Chain and Bar.

Thought you'd find what you needed. Took a while to I.D your model number, but I was surprised to see the availability for just one part number, must be a common missing item. Thanks for the Txt Mssge.