Anglo Traction

With all the hose clamps finished, they were checked for tightness and then several coats of Rylard Incralac Lacquer for protection-
 

 
Settled for a quick way to resolve the prevention of water (rain) ingress. Soldered a plated brass hood to the original Air intake filter body-
 

 
 

Getting close to finishing this. Here's a few images of this project -
 

 
 
 

Have been laid up for 2 weeks with a pretty severe virus that's been going around. Nearly back to normal and have been trying to catch up on a few jobs.
Having now acquired decent hose for 1 inch fittings, I drew up the wide hose clamp design and searched my stock for brass. Had enough for three clamps- Pickup end, pump inlet and outlet. the delivery outlet will need some thought. Plates cut and drilled:-
 

 
Had some hard thinking about how to form them, but sorted it:-
 

 
Found some 5/16" dia brass for the toggles in my brass scrap box (float arm from a cistern valve). Finished these now, but need more brass 3/16" whitworth screws:-
 

 
A need for a towing handle was satisfied by salvaging a crank handle from an old Conservatory roof light.
Had to dismantle and reshape it to my needs and make a new wooden handle grip, but all brass fits well with the project 36" in length (92cms):-
 
 
 
This end needed all the work:-

 
 

 
All these parts will be heavily lacquered for protection.
Solved the waterproofing of the Carb inlet, so will follow with an update later.
Regards.
 

Long time, no post!. Apologies for my absence, had to mothball this to deal with other things. Determined to get back to it, and now the weather has released it's wintery/rainy grip, I've been busy making square brass nuts threaded 3/16" whitworth to secure the 3/4" thick mahogony planks.
Finally made a decision on the last drive chain layout. Went for direct drive to the pump. 9 toothed gear on the pump side, so at 2,500 rpm at the engine, 500 rpm at the reduction gear output, gives me 550rpm pump speed.
The tech data for the pump with the full cam fitted which I have, is 80 litres per minute at 1500rpm.So this set up will run at 29.3 litres per minute, a comfortable rate for my needs.
it meant I had to offset the pump, but not a problem really, and the outlet (elbowed) side will clear the edge of the frame when in use. Here's how it turned out:-
 

 
Hoping to give it a once-over to check everything is fuel tight, and will get it running without the pump on. I need to 'run it in', as it has a rebored cylinder and new rings to bed in.
I'll need to:-
Waterproof the Spark Plug and Lead on the head area with a cover, which will also act as an engine cut out.
Make Chain Cover for the final drive and oil drip collection tray below it.
Waterproof the Air Intake/choke (not urgent).
I've made a pulling handle, but need some wood to make a grip for it.
So I'm nearly at the completion point at last!. 
Regards.
 
 

Meget pæn Steen. Thanks for posting images.

Another post from Denmark 
 
Previously I showed you my WW2 Zündapp KS600 generating set and now I'm back.
 
It's time to present my Auto Union GG400 generating set,  nicknamed "Panzerwürfel" - Würfel being a cube.
 
Most of these sets (and mine too) supplies 12V and 16V, depending of if you need it to supply power to the radios or if you are charging the batteries. All german armed vehicles had one on board, allowing them to be parked in the battlefield with power to the radios without the main engine running. It's a very compact unit but still features electric start per push button, when connected to a battery.
 
Mine as an early model, which were less robust and prone to cracking the engine mount and mine were defective as well. Dating is easy, as the crank is dated (I just love the effectiveness of the germans).
 
Like much of my stuff I have absolutely no use for it, but it is so nice to have .
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Enjoy!
 
/Steen

Long time, no post!. Apologies for my absence, had to mothball this to deal with other things. Determined to get back to it, and now the weather has released it's wintery/rainy grip, I've been busy making square brass nuts threaded 3/16" whitworth to secure the 3/4" thick mahogony planks.
Finally made a decision on the last drive chain layout. Went for direct drive to the pump. 9 toothed gear on the pump side, so at 2,500 rpm at the engine, 500 rpm at the reduction gear output, gives me 550rpm pump speed.
The tech data for the pump with the full cam fitted which I have, is 80 litres per minute at 1500rpm.So this set up will run at 29.3 litres per minute, a comfortable rate for my needs.
it meant I had to offset the pump, but not a problem really, and the outlet (elbowed) side will clear the edge of the frame when in use. Here's how it turned out:-
 

 
Hoping to give it a once-over to check everything is fuel tight, and will get it running without the pump on. I need to 'run it in', as it has a rebored cylinder and new rings to bed in.
I'll need to:-
Waterproof the Spark Plug and Lead on the head area with a cover, which will also act as an engine cut out.
Make Chain Cover for the final drive and oil drip collection tray below it.
Waterproof the Air Intake/choke (not urgent).
I've made a pulling handle, but need some wood to make a grip for it.
So I'm nearly at the completion point at last!. 
Regards.
 
 

Hope all's well Ewan. Clutch lever done and fitted. Cable was a B+*^h. Very tight job making it up from stainless inner cable and outer sleeve. Nipples made and silver soldered.
Managed to retain lots of adjustment take-up on both tensioners-
 

 
This section is now ready to go on the chassis. Still bugged with decision about fitting tensioner adjustment on the output chain drive?.
Regards.

Hope all's well Ewan. Clutch lever done and fitted. Cable was a B+*^h. Very tight job making it up from stainless inner cable and outer sleeve. Nipples made and silver soldered.
Managed to retain lots of adjustment take-up on both tensioners-
 

 
This section is now ready to go on the chassis. Still bugged with decision about fitting tensioner adjustment on the output chain drive?.
Regards.

Outstanding work as ever!

Slow progress, but now have a finished rolling chassis that I can assemble the important bits on. Engine was the first bit to go on-
 

 
Still working on the chain drive and guards on the pump side, with the 'idler'- tensioner set up being the current challenge to design and fit-
 
 
 
Clutch Lever has been a problem, but have now finalised the handle shape and will be cut from 10mm thick block of brass. Will also have a lock lever fitted-
 

 
Lots going on with other things, but will try and improve update regularity.
 
Regards
 

Slow progress, but now have a finished rolling chassis that I can assemble the important bits on. Engine was the first bit to go on-
 

 
Still working on the chain drive and guards on the pump side, with the 'idler'- tensioner set up being the current challenge to design and fit-
 
 
 
Clutch Lever has been a problem, but have now finalised the handle shape and will be cut from 10mm thick block of brass. Will also have a lock lever fitted-
 

 
Lots going on with other things, but will try and improve update regularity.
 
Regards
 

Making slow progress, hence the belated update. Have been painting, varnishing and making Nuts n Bolts. Sorted the drive chain link problem, so now making up the chain guard wth brackets-
 

 
Ensuring clearances and fixing points were ok. 2 more lower brackets to make and I can move on to the clutch lever and outer cable fitting. Wheels are now shiney black gloss.
Regards
 

Thanks Alan, Been preoccupied with lots of small jobs and pulling together two of the three sections of this project.
The middle section (reduction gear unit) has taken a lot of time and work, as it includes the fuel tanks. They are finished, lacquered, mounted and the fuel gauge nestles between them-
 

 
Still incomplete middle section where I have to make up the cable and lever system for operating the clutch/brake shoes. The last job will be to fill the Reduction gear unit with oil -
 

 
All the brass/bronze work has been polished and lacquered as assembly progressed, with the exception of the engine cowling, as I now have some clear gloss VHT Lacquer for that.
output/fan drive sprocket modified to fit onto a woodruf key and locked in place with a grub screw
 

 
Finalised the location of the modified throttle lever and cable route, which keeps it neat, tidy and handy location. Lever and cable joints are watertight.
Although I will have to change the Carb Air inlet and Choke layout to prevent water ingress-
 

 
Tempted to start the engine for a run soon to check how it sounds with the exhaust. Has a lovely bright blue spark at the plug and the timing is spot on.
Mahogany planks being treated prior to fitting and will be yacht varnished after. Pump drive and location of it is a bit of a headache, but working on it-
 

 
Regards.

Well, later than planned, I've made much progress on the fuel tanks and the mounts. Still more copper tapping to final size, but nearly there with both tanks.
Reserve fuel tap mounting boss finished and light press fit ready for silver soldering shown here-
 

 
Have been making the straps, platforms and retaining rings., the latter from 1/4' x 1/4" x 1/16" brass angle. cut, bent and silver soldered to produce 18 sided rings-
 

 
Eventually the concept in my head and on paper materialised into this -
 

 
Pleased with the strength and rigidity on the base and supports for the tanks (the lines drawn on the copper parts are for more dressing out of irregularities for a better fit.
 

 
A little fettling of the fit around the upper cradles/straps.
 

 
Working on the Fuel Gauge parts at the moment. Will then return to the reduction gear unit and final location of it on the chassis

Slow progress lately. Have been pondering over the tank mounting design, but reckon I've found the answer. 
The cooling fan assembly is now finished and the brass support plates nearly finished-

 
Just finished welding up the Reduction Gear mounting, so can start on prep for painting. Still working on Reserve tank hammering copper before I can finalise the mountings.
Fuel tank support mounts shown in this image-
 

 
Hopefully won't be too long before next update.
Regards
 

Finished making the (12) 6BA Bronze bolts and brass nuts for the Fan Shaft bearing/grease point housings over the last weekend and now trial assembled on the unit. All good-
 

 
 

Many thanks for the comments. Sorry for being quiet for a while. Have been busy when able. Lots of decision making on design and machine time, but seem to produce little visually.
The Tank Cartridges were set up for drilling and tapping. Had to obtain a metre of 10mm studding to make the fixings, as they're quite tall-
 

 
Luckily the igniter percussion inserts drilled out ok, then tapped both bases 1/8"BSP for the fittings.
The fuel taps were done as per previous post, so then just the Air Valve to design and make. Shown in next image on the left-
 

 
The left one shows the top of the reserve tank and the right shows the base of the main tank.
Next job was the fan shaft layout, bearing housings and 'Screw Down Grease Cups'. I had the latter vintage cups, but had to make the housings for them out of cast bronze bar.
Made a lot of work for myself milling to shape just to form the platforms to screw the cups into-
 
 
 
Finished them on the lathe so that I could fit a short piece of brass tube between them as a seal against water ingress-
 

 
Cheated a bit with these, as I'm hard soldering them to large flat brass washers to make the flange for bolting through and will match (in size, not colour) the ball bearing housings also machined from solid-
 
 
 
So here is the basic assembly/layout of the fan shaft and now about to start on the sprocket mount and fan/blades-
 

 
Regards
 

Finished the Fuel Taps. Lots of different set-ups and operations required. Did much of the work while still part of the parent brass rod. Cross drilling 3/8"(9.55mm)-
 
 
 
 
I wanted the tap levers opposed to eachother for access (in the off position), so had to be careful when it came to drilling through with the tapered plugs fitted-
 
.
 
The Tap's cam limit plates had to be soldered together, then to a stub of brass for machining to shape using a rotary table-
 

 
When as much work as possible was done, I cut them away from the parent bar and 'Silver Soldered' the pipe connection rods to the Tap bodies.
All the fiitings are for 3/16" (4.75mm) copper pipe. The tap tapers are 'pulled in' using the correct 'Thackery' coil spring washers and provides just the right amount of resistance-
 

 
A light polish and just need proper 1/16" Split (cotter) Pins to finish off. Maybe blend the joints. Happy with this first time job for me.
 

 
Regards
 
 
 
 

Slow progress, but now have a finished rolling chassis that I can assemble the important bits on. Engine was the first bit to go on-
 

 
Still working on the chain drive and guards on the pump side, with the 'idler'- tensioner set up being the current challenge to design and fit-
 
 
 
Clutch Lever has been a problem, but have now finalised the handle shape and will be cut from 10mm thick block of brass. Will also have a lock lever fitted-
 

 
Lots going on with other things, but will try and improve update regularity.
 
Regards
 

Just for everyone's information. I have uploaded the available manual in PDF form for the Hayter Osprey and 21 machines. It's in the orange header line marked DOWNLOADS. Engine data will need to be obtained from the B&S website.
Regards

Making slow progress, hence the belated update. Have been painting, varnishing and making Nuts n Bolts. Sorted the drive chain link problem, so now making up the chain guard wth brackets-
 

 
Ensuring clearances and fixing points were ok. 2 more lower brackets to make and I can move on to the clutch lever and outer cable fitting. Wheels are now shiney black gloss.
Regards
 

Making slow progress, hence the belated update. Have been painting, varnishing and making Nuts n Bolts. Sorted the drive chain link problem, so now making up the chain guard wth brackets-
 

 
Ensuring clearances and fixing points were ok. 2 more lower brackets to make and I can move on to the clutch lever and outer cable fitting. Wheels are now shiney black gloss.
Regards
 

Bootifull Richard, just Bootifull. 

Unusual design!. it's based on the Archemedian principle. A bit of searchng Hose manufacturers may well produce what you need.
One point about these is that with rubber involved, there needs to be a method of priming with water etc prior to starting up from a dry condition.
 
As for makers info, It may be worth enquiring with the company. Yes, it look's like they are still in business. Here's a link to their 'Timeline' on their website-    MONO PUMPS Ltd 
Good luck.
Regards