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Wallfish

ORline Hedge Trimmer

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Very cool, nice trimmer.  Where is the throttle trigger positioned?

 

I’m hoping to try to start my trimmer this afternoon before the big blizzard hits us.  This will be the first attempt since getting the trimmer and going through the engine and gearbox.  I hope the engine runs ok...

 

Clint

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Not exactly, I was thinking the actual finger trigger end of it;)

Or, is it some sort of twist throttle out at the handle?

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Yes the handle is a twist throttle control (only fitted to the deluxe models, none of mine :yankchain:), as shown on the parts image I posted the other day, part #40 below;

 

1197678444_OhlssonRiceHedgeTrimmerModelHT-24248249288289PartsListOct70edit.jpg.68f2d690b02fefe1267516e8caff204d.jpg

 

David

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Ahhhh, I didn’t connect the dots - I should have looked closer. That’s a pretty cool set up!

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This arrived yesterday, a later 'deluxe' version of the Orline hedge trimmer, with the twist throttle control on the handle & the O&R Series 13B engine. It's the first Orline version of the hedge trimmer to join my collection, it looks in very nice condition too, just needs the starter mechanism repairing & a pull handle.

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And here are some pictures of the twist throttle control on the handle, the grip appeared to look like it might have been damaged & repaired from the sellers pictures, but it turned out it just had a couple of pieces of thick coated steel wire taped to it, possibly to make it easier to grip? :dunno:

SAM_3446a.jpg.0977a0af0997980a3f2c67e009207f61.jpgSAM_3455a.jpg.97334c28e50011f282da35112d031f10.jpg

SAM_3456a.jpg.69dd22960c93ef5c48a42778ed777661.jpgSAM_3458a.jpg.902538686c3bdc78bdda15360af69205.jpg

 

David

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That’s a nice looking trimmer David, very cool find!  I really like the color and the twist throttle is a neat touch!

 

Clint

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Nice find.

Try cleaning the chrome handle with crumpled up aluminum foil and water. Or coca-cola. It works really well and doesn't leave scratch marks.

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21 hours ago, CNew said:

That’s a nice looking trimmer David, very cool find!  I really like the color and the twist throttle is a neat touch!

The green seems to be the standard used for Orline tools made in the early 1970's (after yellow for late 1960's, & red for early tools), it was also a popular colour for bathroom suites in over here in the 70's too.

 

19 hours ago, Wallfish said:

Try cleaning the chrome handle with crumpled up aluminum foil and water. Or coca-cola.

I don't drink coke (& will stop drinking Irn-Bru once the last of the original recipe cans I have left is gone), is it the phosphoric acid that removes the rust from chrome & do other cola brands work? I will try the kitchen foil suggestion first. :thumbs:

 

4 hours ago, pmackellow said:

At least its gone to a good home !

 

Sorry I bid you up on it ! :hide:

That's OK Paul, you weren't the only other bidder and it still made less than the cost new in 1974 (£73.00+VAT from E.P. Barrus).

I need to check the cutter bar length to find out the model number and give the starter a service too.

 

David

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Wow - that’s impressive!  I’d never heard of that trick before. I’ve seen 0000 steel wool but never aluminum foil.  I know what I’m going to try on my next handle clean up job;)

 

Clint

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I was a bit concerned it would rust easily as I had used water, so gave it a coat of knock-off WD40 and left it in the sun to dry,

 

David

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:thumbs: bet you were just a bit skeptical on how well it work before trying it, huh?

I use WD-40 to clear off all of the water , let dry, coat with oil then wipe off the oil with a dry rag. The oil will stay in the pits and help protect it from further deterioration. 

 

steel wool will leave scratches as it's harder than the chrome. Most bikers will not use it on their chrome parts because of that and you can see the scratches when it's out in the sun.

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I was indeed a little bit skeptical, but mainly due to using water, I just thought it would quickly rust again.

There are plenty more rusty chrome handles on O&R's here that will benefit from the same treatment. :thumbs:

 

I've also found out why the starter mechanism of this trimmer was reluctant to move, turns out some of the spot welds on the starter reel have failed, as soon as I loosened the spring housing screws the cord returned easily.

It's been like this for a long time as part of the starter reel edge has become very sharp where it has worn against the starter spring. I'm going to find out if it can be repaired.

SAM_3469a.jpg.e31002e1993936df112705ff389a606e.jpgSAM_3472a.jpg.699f3436c3e4a6b514a683bce2b20ed2.jpg

 

On the plus side this problem has prevented that crumbly air filter foam from getting into the engine. :D

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David

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That foam is nasty! I just removed a similar mss from one of my air cleaners.

 

Your post on the trimmer inspired me again and I was finally able to get my Orline trimmer running this weekend.  I ended up having to swap carburetor diaphragm assemblies even though I rebuilt the original one that was on it twice.  I’m going to have to open it up the diaphragm again and see what’s going on in there and causing it to malfunction.  I know I put it back together correctly but it just doesn’t pump.

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1 hour ago, CNew said:

  I know I put it back together correctly but it just doesn’t pump.

Check the check valve ball bearing. If I remember correctly there was service bulletin to change that ball every time a carb was in for service. It can stick closed.

Also, always blow air through the fuel inlet after servicing a carb. If the valve is closing correctly you should not be able to blow any air through until you push the primer button. Sometimes the cap pushes down on the arm if the arm is "tweaked". and doesn't allow it to completely seal. I found it easier to use the paper gasket in that situation rather than messing around with the arm.

 Leaking crankcase seals cause loss of pressure and vacuum inside the case which is what pulses the diaphragm so sometimes a better carb works just to get it running. Try the old one on the engine which the known good carb came from as well. That may help you hunt down the issue.

 

 

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Thanks John - I’ll have a closer look at the ball valve and see if maybe the ball is worn or getting stuck. I used a new lever during the last rebuild so hopefully it’s engaging properly.

 

Clint

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Yes those ball bearings can gum up with the old oil & stick, I did think about buying some new ones from an engineering supplier in the UK till I noticed the pictured items were pre-rusted.

They are standard sizes, 1/16" for earlier carbs & 3/32" for later ones, very late ones may have a different diaphragm arm with a rubber seal instead.

 

66603566_OhlssonRiceCarbCheckBallBearing.jpg.61b95559bea1f42f96a848b3aef85f5d.jpg

 

David

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So do you think standard chromed steel balls of these dimensions will work? These should be pretty easy to source (I would think).

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Yes. I picked up some at an old school hardware store in the little "treasure drawers" that have all the old stuff.

Most of the time cleaning them works but it's possible it could be sticking.

 

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