Wristpin 400 #51 Posted October 31, 2015 One for an MG fan looking for an upgrade! http://www.ljacksonandco.com/index.php/search-results-by-description/article/40143 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #52 Posted October 31, 2015 I think Janet might have something to say if that turned up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wristpin 400 #53 Posted October 31, 2015 Jumping about from one job to another to keep momentum and interest going I re-cut the valve faces and seats today using a Neway cutter set, one kit cuts the face to 45deg another kit cuts the seat to 46 deg amazing pieces of kit and apparently no lapping required. The complete set costs about 2 grand so I was very lucky to be able to borrow a set. I also cleaned up all the studs and nuts for the crankcases ,timing cover and made a complete set of new gaskets for the barrel crankcase and final drives. A nice quiet day without compressors or grinders running. Only just read this - Not so sure about "apparently no lapping required" . I bought a set of Neway seat cutters forty years ago and always lap in after refacing valves and re-cutting seats . Would consider it good workshop practice (as opposed to manufacturers assembly ) . The Black and Decker valve refacer dates back to the days when they made proper tools and incorporates a vernier attachment for grinding valve stems on engines without adjustable tappets. 2 nigel and Stormin reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #54 Posted November 1, 2015 I thought the same thing but it is very specific in the instructions that if you are cutting the valve to 45Degrees and the seat to 46 if you lap it you just blur the interface. I also sought advice from some race engineers who both said the same thing. We shall see ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #55 Posted November 1, 2015 I've never cut valve seats, but lapped a good many in. I lap a bit then clean off. Lap without paste and repeat until I can just see a complete thin shiny line round seat and valve. With an ohv head, I assemble then pour petrol into the ports and look for any dampness round valve head. If petrol can't get through, gas vapour won't. I can see the reasoning in the slight difference in angles. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hpearce 40 #56 Posted November 2, 2015 I like the oil sump cover in picture 2 ..... I find that mine is very good for tea! Wristpin, what year is your valve refacer? I have a Black and Decker drill which was my fathers dating from the 1940's or 50's which is as well made and still going strong Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wristpin 400 #57 Posted November 2, 2015 I don't disagree re the one degree difference , that's standard practice but in a rebuild situation I'd still lap. A while ago there was someone recommending " ringing in" - his term - each valve by smacking it with a hammer to seat it ! Each to his own! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #58 Posted November 3, 2015 I have heard of tapping the end of the stem with a copper hammer to ensure the collets are seated but not smacking the valve head to create a bruised seat. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #59 Posted November 3, 2015 I have heard of tapping the end of the stem with a copper hammer to ensure the collets are seated That's what I do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #60 Posted November 4, 2015 A bit more progress today now that my 1902 Drummond lathe is back up and running with a new chuck. A number of the original head studs that also hold on the fan mounting were missing so I made up a new set from 1/2" hex bar threaded UNF one end and BSF the other. had some fun oil bluing the finished items. Second job was brazing up all the cracks and rust holes in the engine cowling, I was not looking forward to this as it looked to be in a very poor state however after a bit of hammering, brazing and a dip in the acid bath it has come out quite well.I annealed the copper head gasket and we now have a complete engine. 2 Anglo Traction and Stormin reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #61 Posted November 4, 2015 Can anyone tell me how to get the text to wrap around the pictures better? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #62 Posted November 4, 2015 Very nice job of the studs, Jonathan. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #63 Posted November 4, 2015 quite satisfying restoring an eighty year old machine using a tool that is 114 years old. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #64 Posted November 5, 2015 Can anyone tell me how to get the text to wrap around the pictures better? I think your forgetting to move your cursor, Jonathan. Select your attachments first. Write your sentence/paragraph. Move cursor down two spaces and select required attachment from list at bottom of page. Move cursor down two spaces again and write next sentence/paragraph. And so on. Make sense? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #65 Posted November 5, 2015 Usually I write the blurb and then upload the photos which land where they land! I don't seem to be able to move them around. Had a go at editing the last two posts and that seems to be better. Thanks Norman. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #66 Posted November 5, 2015 I can pop up if you like. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #67 Posted November 5, 2015 At last I am getting near to the end of de rusting, cleaned off the drawbar and lift mechanism today just a couple of wheels and the load roller frames to go. Studying the manual for the Nickel plating kit I bought ready to set to with the carb, disappointingly the first thing the kit says is to mix the chemicals with distilled or de ionised water but then they don't send you any! Fun job today was to start re assembling the tracks now that they are cleaned off and painted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #68 Posted November 5, 2015 Defrost the fridge , Jonathan. Free distilled water. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #69 Posted November 6, 2015 Wrong kind of fridge unfortunately. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wristpin 400 #70 Posted November 6, 2015 Wrong kind of fridge unfortunately. Nothing lost, as melted fridge frost is not distilled but is just atmospheric moisture that has condensed and been frozen when the fridge door is opened and warm moist air hits the cold interior. Proper "distilled water" is, as the name suggests, water that's been boiled, turned to steam leaving the impurities behind and then re-condensed in a purer form . De- ionised water is something else again......! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hpearce 40 #71 Posted November 7, 2015 Have you seen this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ransomes-MG-2-Crawler-Tractor-Brochure-Rare-/391314165704?hash=item5b1c244fc8:g:BmoAAOSwu-BWPRP2 Would go well with 137 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #72 Posted November 8, 2015 I have thank you, looks as if it could get expensive. I currently have a 1937 version of the same book and it is interesting how the machine has changed, but not fully evolved into the TB engined model. The engine in this is Sturmey Archer derived but Ransomes branded, the starter mechanism has changed to the end of the crank instead of the chain and ratchet 137 has, the logos and decals are different and now has Royal Warrant so guess this brochure must be 1938/39. I hope I manage to win the auction. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 1,016 #73 Posted November 9, 2015 Just read this whole Thread and really impressed with your comprehensive workmanship skills. Your enthusiasm shows through on the care you apply to maintain originality of this machine . Keep the pics coming. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
expeatfarmer 591 #74 Posted November 9, 2015 Thank you Richard . Todays job has been assembling one of the tracks, if you tighten the nuts to the correct track pitch it makes it too stiff to fit and handle so it will be another laborious job once fitted to the machine. 28 pads per track 58 bolts 2 tracks 116 bolts to tighten a couple of flats at a time as you can't get in with sockets or power tools. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #75 Posted November 9, 2015 Have you plated those tracks, Jonathan? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
