Bolens H16 Washing and Deck Clean Up

[HeadExam 1,783]

I took some time to drive the Bolens H16 and then wash it up after sitting in the shed for a few month, also scrubbed and sanded the deck. It's got a first coat, next it will get a vigorous sanding, filling primer, and finish coat with poly converter added for hardness and gloss retention. The white specks are ash from the burn barrel, paint was more than dry

[Stormin 4,458]

Nice!

[Triumph66 1,256]

Alain,

You done a superb job on the H16 and those tyres look the business.

Cheers

[HeadExam 1,783]

Alain,

You done a superb job on the H16 and those tyres look the business.

Cheers

Thanks Andrew. Those tires ARE the business. They are ITP 589s, no lugs bigger or better, I have them on my Massey 1650 and it pulled a full size truck out of a muddy ditch without slipping. The Massey and Bolens tires are 10" (26cm) wide. All are 25" (65cm) tall. I also have them on an Ariens GT14H, but in the 25x8-12 (20cm) width for plowing and garden work. I got a good deal on them, just under 100 US a tire delivered to my door. They are 189.00 a piece now, if you can find them.

[Triumph66 1,256]

Alain,

Can you take a photo of your sleeve hitch decals please as I just bought one myself. Be good to try to get one made up if possible.

Thanks

Andrew

.

[HeadExam 1,783]

Alain,

Can you take a photo of your sleeve hitch decals please as I just bought one myself. Be good to try to get one made up if possible.

Thanks

Andrew

.image.jpg

Here ya go mate, take your pick, the decal on mine is the third picture

[OldBuzzard 186]

Andrew,

 

Yours actually has a partial decal on it:

 

 

[Triumph66 1,256]

Thanks for the photos Alain.

Dave, I didn't know it was on there as I only got the one photo of it from Joe. Here hoping that the lift rod turn up today.

Cheers

[slf-uk 914]

Alain,

Your H16 is fantastic, you have done a great job on it. As a fan of the H16's, I would like to ask you a few questions about it.

 

The XL decal on the front of engine is interesting, I have only see that on the later OH Tecumseh's. Does the tractor have a OH160 or is a HH160 and does it suggest that your H16 is one of the later ones from the second batch?

 

I also noticed that it has rear lights installed which look like the originals. Are these made by Speaker or the earlier Peterson lights or something else?

 

The deck is in very good condition however from the pictures I can't see if it is 38" or 42", from the support bracket for the gearbox I would guess it is a 42". I did notice that it has the lift bracket for a geared tractor installed rather than the one required for the H16.

 

Andrew, your sleeve hitch is in great condition, you don't see many like that these days.

 

Iain

Edited May 9, 2015 by slf-uk

[HeadExam 1,783]

Alain,

Your H16 is fantastic, you have done a great job on it. As a fan of the H16's, I would like to ask you a few questions about it.

 

The XL decal on the front of engine is interesting, I have only see that on the later OH Tecumseh's. Does the tractor have a OH160 or is a HH160 and does it suggest that your H16 is one of the later ones from the second batch?

 

I also noticed that it has rear lights installed which look like the originals. Are these made by Speaker or the earlier Peterson lights or something else?

 

The deck is in very good condition however from the pictures I can't see if it is 38" or 42", from the support bracket for the gearbox I would guess it is a 42". I did notice that it has the lift bracket for a geared tractor installed rather than the one required for the H16.

 

Andrew, your sleeve hitch is in great condition, you don't see many like that these days.

 

Iain

Wow Iain, you have a sharp eye. First the history on the tractor. The tractor was purchased in May of 1977, its a 1976 model. it was purchased in West des Moines Iowa, by a guy that lived near Panorama, Iowa. In 1989-1990 the original engine gave way and the original owner traded it in on a new (wasn't actually new, but was still on the lot, 1989 model, I checked the serial numbers on the dealer invoice) Bolens Duratrac (5120H). The dealer put a new engine on the H16 at that time and offered it for sale. Another one of the dealers customers had bought a used Bolens QT17 (1666) from him the previous year and the engine (Kohler KT17) failed after the first mowing season. The dealer felt bad and wanted to make it right so he offered the guy the Bolens H16 with the new engine at what he had in it. Everyone was happy as it came with not just a 42" deck, but a front blade, snow blower, and tiller as well, all virtually new. Before the second owner could cut his grass the first time his son was driving the tractor around the property and hit a well casing that damaged the deck, gearbox, and PTO. He took the deck to a local shade tree mechanic who promptly left town with everyone's equipment. The second owner then put the Bolens under a tarp in the barn, along with the blower, tiller, and blade  and bought a cheap craftsman lawn tractor. the Bolens sat in the barn from 1991 until 2013 when he drug it out to sell. He was on his third craftsman lawn tractor when he advertised the Bolens, hoping to bolster his funds to enable a zero turn purchase. I bought the tractor minus the deck for 550.00, the 1991 OH-160 had less than 50 hours on it. I bought a 42" 18423-03 deck for 100.00 that is in better shape than this one and have the right lift bracket, I bought this deck for 18423-01 deck for 50.00 it was on a G14. Back to the engine, the OH160 and HH160 were supposedly the same engine, just different designations, maybe because they turned the engine 180 degrees in later models, but the dealer actually put the the Tecumseh OH160 engine in it, it has a spec number of 170182F, serial number 1151E, which makes it a 1991. The tractor is a 1656-03, serial number 0301448, or the 1448 -03 to come off the line, serial number 309999 starts model year of 1977. I try and research history and specification of every tractor I buy and try to buy from th original owner or second owner. I also like to get names of people that sold the tractor or worked on it to call them and ask questions. Yep people are surprised when i call them about a machine they owned, sold or worked on 30 years ago. By the way our local O'Reilly's auto parts stores still sell the same tail lights for under 4.00 each, I bought the single taillight for the 1556 from Grainger for 7.82. the 1556 is a Grote taillight. I forget what the H16s are, I have the invoice around here somewhere. Sometimes I get on the hunt for a OEM part and I can't stop.

[Triumph66 1,256]

Alain,

I love the background history of your tractor. I, too, always like to know about my tractors' history too. It is all part of the hobby to my mind. And yes Iain does not miss a trick on the details of these Bolens either! Which is why I run a few things pass him for his scrutiny.

Again a great looking tractor and I feel I need one myself at a later date.

Andrew

[OldBuzzard 186]

Nice research HE.

 

However, you have a bit of misinformation inre the serial numbers.

 

Bolens started each production run with the serial number 00101.  So, the first tractor in the 03 production run would have been 0300101.

 

To determine which unit off the line you have, you would need to subtract 100 from the serial number.

 

That means that your tractor was the 1348th off the line in the 03 production run.

 

With the tube frames and large frames there were two different model/production run/serial formats.

 

The earlier ones has the production appended to the model number with the serial number separate. The later ones had the model number and then the production run number as the first two digits of the serial number.

 

That change over occurred in 1972/1973. Here is a Service Bulletin that details the change.

Bolens Serial Number Service Bulletein.pdf

[HeadExam 1,783]

Nice research HE.

 

However, you have a bit of misinformation inre the serial numbers.

 

Bolens started each production run with the serial number 00101.  So, the first tractor in the 03 production run would have been 0300101.

 

The determine which unit off the line you have, you would need to subtract 100 from the serial number.

 

That means that your tractor was the 1348th off the line in the 03 production run.

 

With the tube frames and large frames there were two different model/production run/serial formats.

 

The earlier ones has the production appended to the model number with the serial number separate. The later ones had the model number and then the production run number as the first two digits of the serial number.

 

That change over occurred in 1972/1973. Here is a Service Bulletin that details the change.

Thank OB, good to know!!!!

[slf-uk 914]

The only real difference I have been able to identify between a OH160 and HH160 is the charging circuit. A HH160 has a large remote rectifier located under the battery tray and the OH160 has the rectifier located on the tin covering the flywheel just above the starter. Both have issues with the remote rectifier tending to get hotter than it should and the one on the tin being subjected to debris being thrown from the flywheel.

 

I couldn't see from your pictures if they used the original rectifier when they installed the OH160 or if they changed the wiring.

 

I just love posts like this, so much information and lots to learn. Retaining the new information is the difficult part. 

 

Iain

[HeadExam 1,783]

The only real difference I have been able to identify between a OH160 and HH160 is the charging circuit. A HH160 has a large remote rectifier located under the battery tray and the OH160 has the rectifier located on the tin covering the flywheel just above the starter. Both have issues with the remote rectifier tending to get hotter than it should and the one on the tin being subjected to debris being thrown from the flywheel.

 

I couldn't see from your pictures if they used the original rectifier when they installed the OH160 or if they changed the wiring.

 

I just love posts like this, so much information and lots to learn. Retaining the new information is the difficult part. 

 

Iain

Here's some pictures of the restoration, this is after the frame was painted and I put the engine back on

[slf-uk 914]

I found a page from a manual which shows the two different lift brackets

 

 

The horseshoe shaped bracket on the top left of parts picture is for a geared tractor and the straight bracket on the top right is for a hydro. They both attach to the deck with what is described on the picture as the link assembly with the other end on the tractor lift.

 

Iain

[HeadExam 1,783]

I found a page from a manual which shows the two different lift brackets

 

page 1.jpg

 

The horseshoe shaped bracket on the top left of parts picture is for a geared tractor and the straight bracket on the top right is for a hydro. They both attach to the deck with what is described on the picture as the link assembly with the other end on the tractor lift.

 

Iain

Thanks Iain. The horseshoe (round material) bracket on the top left is the same on both hydro and geared, it is just the small lift link on the right that is different, right? One has a bend, the other is straight, because my horseshoe or U shaped bracket is the same on both decks and I don't see wear they say there is any difference in the horseshoe or U shaped bracket. 

[OldBuzzard 186]

Thanks Andrew. Those tires ARE the business. They are ITP 589s, no lugs bigger or better, ...

 

Dunno about that.

 

Bet the CST Ancla tires will give them a run for their money  :D

 

They are available in 25x8-12 and 25x10-12 sizes at very good prices.

 

http://www.discountutvtires.com/CST-ANCLA-UTV-ATV-TIRES/

 

I have them on 3 of my Large Frames: the 1886-01 with FEL, the 1886-01 Forklift, and the HDT1000.

[HeadExam 1,783]

Dunno about that.

 

Bet the CST Ancla tires will give them a run for their money  :D

 

They are available in 25x8-12 and 25x10-12 sizes at very good prices.

 

http://www.discountutvtires.com/CST-ANCLA-UTV-ATV-TIRES/

 

I have them on 3 of my Large Frames: the 1886-01 with FEL, the 1886-01 Forklift, and the HDT1000.

OB, I'm afraid the tire debate may be like the oil viscosity debate, but in the interest of being absolutely on the right side of this argument YOU MAY BE RIGHT, without a actual test my statement is conjecture. I know the ANCLAs are a smoother ride on concrete. While my ITPs may or may not out perform the ANCLA, I do believe they will outlast them. Daniel (Olcowhand) has a set he uses on the farm everyday that are 10 years old and show very little wear. I bought a set of Deestone 23x10.50-12 bar lug tires (cheapest bar lug tire available) and in one season summer and winter they were done. So I will say I am more than confident that my ITPs will outlast the ANCLA's. The ANCLA's look good and I'm sure they perform well, but they are half the cost of ITPs unless you find the ITPs on sale (rare) and are made by Interco where as the ANCLAs are made by Cheng Shin. I do not like the fact that ANCLA advertises, like many tires manufactures do, that their tires have a 4 or 6 ply RATING, but are not in fact a 4 or 6 ply tire, many of those tires are actually two ply. I'm not saying that will affect performance, because I don't think it will, but it will definitely affect durability. I was selling paint to old guy one time and asked him if he wanted the 5 year paint or the 25 year paint, he said at his age any paint that would last 6 months would be fine as long as the price was low. That's one way to look at things, I look at them this way, never be afraid to buy the very best because you will never be disappointed. In the end tires like oil are a personal choice, I actually bought the ITPs for two reasons, recommendations from several professional ATV drivers and (hard to admit) I like the tread pattern, I believe it resembles a tractor lug or at least compliments my tractor more than most ATV tires, and it is a better performer in the dirt than ANY garden tractor bar lug tire on the market today. To each his own, but what I don't understand is running wide short tires in front of AGs, it would seem to defeat the purpose of setting the tractor up as an AG tractor when one is attempting to steer the monster with beach balls mounted to the front. I also do not understand the use of AG tires in excess of 10 inches wide as they become a flotation tire at that point and reduce their performance and unless you have a 10 inch rim the tires, they will never be as wide as advertised, so a waste of money. I've bought over 20, maybe 25 complete sets of tires in the last 4  or 5 years including 4 bolt front hubs and tie rod steering link up grades, I learned alot about tires, and steering, I've made some mistakes(and learned) that cost me money. I do things without the regard of cost, but in the interest of durability and usefulness, that said, how I do things is not the right way, but maybe someone else might see the benefit in using taller narrow tires up front and taller not so wide tires in the rear because by the law of physics they work better. If enough people do they might bring back the old AG tires. It really bothers me that tire manufacturers pander to a small segment of the population that want tires for their "custom" jalopies of all sizes and shapes, but reduce the amount of decent sized tires for the average Joe. I personally would never buy a 22" tall tire with NO side wall or jack my Buick up like a buck board wagon, but if I did, I know Goodyear makes tires for them, just wish they wouldn't make the 15" car/truck tire obsolete and expensive. BTW, OB the picture of the new ANCLAs and of the older set on the tractors seem to show a reduction in tread height, and in comparison to the ITPs are not quite as deep. Well they might be when new, but it appears they may wear down quicker than I would want, but I could be wrong. It really depends on the conditions one uses the tires in, I believe you said that your area was prone to surface water, your tires would be great for those conditions, in Oklahoma, not so much surface water. 

[slf-uk 914]

Just to clarify what I attempted to say in the previous post.

 

In order to install a deck on a hydro that has previously been used on a geared tractor, remove the bracket circled in blue and replace it with the bracket circled in red.

 

 

Iain

[HeadExam 1,783]

Just to clarify what I attempted to say in the previous post.

 

In order to install a deck on a hydro that has previously been used on a geared tractor, remove the bracket circled in blue and replace it with the bracket circled in red.

 

deck2.jpg

 

Iain

Wow there Iain, I have the bracket circled in BLUE on both decks, but one deck has the curved link and one has the straight link, whats the deal??? I'll see if I can pull that page from my manual so I can read what it says. It would appear that the differnce would be in exchanging the small curved link and the straight link, not eliminating the horseshoe link assembly, but hey, I know I'll find out here  Thanks, Alain

[slf-uk 914]

Full owners manual from where I extracted the pictures:

 

 

Iain

Edited May 13, 2015 by slf-uk

[HeadExam 1,783]

Full owners manual from where I extracted the pictures:

 

18423 Mower 42in - Owners Manual.pdf

 

Iain

I have both the parts and owners manual, and after actually reading them I fully understand what you are saying and how to hook up the deck using the parts I have. I was wondering why my other deck had both lift link assemblies though, no matter, if anyone needs an extra, I have two and only need none, lol

[HeadExam 1,783]

Just to clarify what I attempted to say in the previous post.

 

In order to install a deck on a hydro that has previously been used on a geared tractor, remove the bracket circled in blue and replace it with the bracket circled in red.

 

deck2.jpg

 

Iain

Got it. Thanks Iain

[slf-uk 914]

Alain,

 

I friend of mine in WV sent me this a few years ago

 

brackets.bmp

 

I seem to recall that my lift bracket only has two holes, one at each end. I will look when I get the chance, very busy at the moment.

 

Iain