S1g 579 #26 Posted June 7, 2015 Valves are easy, there's quite a few how to guides on you tube, most the small engines can be done without valve spring compressors, but even if they are needed are very cheap to buy, I think my briggs one(that also does techy and others from memory)was about £2. If you're ever Hereford way outside of business hours I'll happily assist you to do it. In my experience 99% of problems with small engines can be tied down to the exhaust valve not seating properly. 1 jparkes43 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jparkes43 27 #27 Posted June 7, 2015 Valves are easy, there's quite a few how to guides on you tube, most the small engines can be done without valve spring compressors, but even if they are needed are very cheap to buy, I think my briggs one(that also does techy and others from memory)was about £2. If you're ever Hereford way outside of business hours I'll happily assist you to do it. In my experience 99% of problems with small engines can be tied down to the exhaust valve not seating properly. great thanks, something i might look at as you seem quite confident with your words and thanks for the kind offer. james Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vinnetrow 129 #28 Posted June 7, 2015 I know youve stripped the carb, but watching something like this could be helpful. Just incase you missed something. 2 nigel and jparkes43 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie Smith 192 #29 Posted June 7, 2015 James, do you have a spark plug tester thingy, someone did add a picture of one earlier in this topic, it doesn't really tell you if the plug it's self is sparking, but it let's you know if the coil is working, it may be that the leads have come disconnected or somethings touching behind the flywheel, if you take the flywheel off, you will see the coil along with the points and a condenser, before you go messing about with the taking the head off, just in case you snap head bolts etc, plus you'll end up needing a new head gasket, I'd suggest taking the flywheel off and looking to make sure everything's still all attached as it should be, the points may need adjusting as it may be sparking at the wrong time. I've had machines that wouldn't run sometimes would run but not properly I adjusted the points and then they have been fine, The points open and close on like a lobe on the end of the shaft they spread open and then close again the gap between the points may need adjusting if these are out or need adjusting it may be sparking at the wrong time. 1 jparkes43 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
S1g 579 #30 Posted June 7, 2015 James, do you have a spark plug tester thingy, someone did add a picture of one earlier in this topic, it doesn't really tell you if the plug it's self is sparking, but it let's you know if the coil is working, it may be that the leads have come disconnected or somethings touching behind the flywheel, if you take the flywheel off, you will see the coil along with the points and a condenser, before you go messing about with the taking the head off, just in case you snap head bolts etc, plus you'll end up needing a new head gasket, I'd suggest taking the flywheel off and looking to make sure everything's still all attached as it should be, the points may need adjusting as it may be sparking at the wrong time. I've had machines that wouldn't run sometimes would run but not properly I adjusted the points and then they have been fine, The points open and close on like a lobe on the end of the shaft they spread open and then close again the gap between the points may need adjusting if these are out or need adjusting it may be sparking at the wrong time. Usually with an air cooled engine you can often reuse the head gasket with a smear or blue hylomar or similar. It's rare that they snap on removal of the head. 1 Charlie Smith reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie Smith 192 #31 Posted June 7, 2015 Well that's a bonus then James, try one, if still no joy, try the other let us know how you get on. 1 jparkes43 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 1,900 #32 Posted June 7, 2015 Late here, but we couldn't get Finns v70 to run. A new carb cured all issues! If a carb is worn, then it's never going to run properly 1 jparkes43 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jparkes43 27 #33 Posted June 7, 2015 ok thanks guys for all the help. i think i might just buy on of those replacement carbs i found from the us. ok mark i didn't realise that but now you say it yes your probably right like one of thees? but i also don't ind looking at other things with your guidance as it might help http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2055119.m570.l1311.R1.TR2.TRC1.A0.H1.XTecumseh+h60+c.TRS0&_nkw=tecumseh+carburetor+h60&_sacat=0 james Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jparkes43 27 #34 Posted June 8, 2015 Hello, so today i wasted no time taking the engine apart, so got the cooling shroud etc off, but i removed the flywheel nut and then reattached it as i know thats recommended and cant seem to get it off, any help/advice? but on another note i got the head off an this is what i found. james Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie Smith 192 #35 Posted June 8, 2015 Is it the flywheel you cant get off or the nut? If its the flywheel use a puller, im not sure there is any other way without causing damage,a puller works everytime for me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jparkes43 27 #36 Posted June 8, 2015 (edited) its the flywheel, i don't have a puller but i might be able to get hold of one in a couple of days, i was thinking a rubber mallet? what does everyone think of the inside of the engine? does it look ok james Edited June 8, 2015 by jparkes43 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #37 Posted June 8, 2015 Looking at the bore, I'd say you've got a broken ring or two. Those look like score marks. Hence the oil on everything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jparkes43 27 #38 Posted June 8, 2015 gulp i mean it might not be scoring it could be the light etc but it is very oily in there. so how do i clean my valves? wire brush etc james Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 4,458 #39 Posted June 8, 2015 First things first. Check that the bore is not scored. If it is, you may be able to get it rebored. If not, another barrel or engine is required. To clean up valves, piston and heads, I use a 6" rule and GENTLY and CAREFULLY scrape the carbon off. You may as well remove the valves and see what state the seats are. Lap them in anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jparkes43 27 #40 Posted June 8, 2015 ok, just checked it is slightly scratched/scored. can i not just leave it as is? ok but if i remove them wont i have to do the timing etc? what does lapping involve james so carefuly scrap the valves should i then go around the edges with like a wire brush or sand paper? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom 215 #41 Posted June 8, 2015 Regarding the flywheel, on a Kohler engine I use wedge a chock of wood in between the engine block and the flywheel so there is constant pressure on the flywheel and usually a combination of hitting the flywheel and the flywheel nut it will come loose. Plenty of penetrating oil and you want lots of shock but not too much so you damage things.. Tom 1 jparkes43 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 1,016 #42 Posted June 8, 2015 A couple of points for you to consider James now your tackling this by going deeper into the engine. Aluminium Bore Engines are prone to bad maintenance, i.e. lack of regular Oil changes is the major failing. Your Engine may only need a new set of Rings, depends on the amount of wear and the condition like scoring. There is no facility to use a 'Screw In' Bolt and Puller on this Flywheel. There is a set procedure to do this, and again, it is covered in detail in the Service Manual. It also needs to be done with care to avoid damage. Flywheel key condition is also important on this model. Basically, it involves 2 pieces of Tapered Wood tapped in between the Crankcase and the Flywheel to pull it out towards the Nut and the End of the Crank/nut is sharply hit with a Wooden Mallet or a metal Hammer with a thick rag between it and the nut. The Flywheel will free from the taper and the nut prevents it from dropping on the floor and shattering (or your foot). Most of the Carbon there will scrape off with just a sharpened wooden Lolly Stick, or a piece of soft copper, as it is saturated with Oil (that's why your Piston is so clean on top). I always prefer to use a scraper that is of softer material than the parent metal. If you remove the Valves, you must check and note orientation of the Springs carefully and they need to be refitted the right way up if they are of the 'Damper Style', which is highly likely. The Manual will show you all this. I clean the Valves with a Small wire brush in a Drill. Careful with the Stem length that runs in the Guides. I assume you just want to clean, regrind/lap and refit these?. Getting the Valve Clearances correct may involve careful grinding and finishing the ends of Stems where they contact the Valve Lifters (Cam Followers). Cleanliness is paramount. Also, don't throw the original Carb away. I will have it and return it to new condition as a spare. 1 jparkes43 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-101plowerpower 548 #43 Posted June 8, 2015 I've used a block of alu to hit the flywheel nut while holding the flywheel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 1,016 #44 Posted June 8, 2015 Sorry Tom, I was a bit slow compiling my post and have duplicated what you said Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jparkes43 27 #45 Posted June 8, 2015 ok thanks everyone. note taken and i will go ahead and try that. anglo. i haven't taken it on on board and i am going out to try it now. pm sent james Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jparkes43 27 #46 Posted June 8, 2015 Hello, this is another step in the right direction, let me know where from here as im a little bit ermm. james Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom 215 #47 Posted June 8, 2015 Sorry Tom, I was a bit slow compiling my post and have duplicated what you said Great minds think alike 2 jparkes43 and Anglo Traction reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jparkes43 27 #48 Posted June 8, 2015 yes so from here i am a little stuck. james Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anglo Traction 1,016 #49 Posted June 8, 2015 Look's like someone has made a right 'Pig's Ear' of that Flywheel Taper, Keyway and Key in the past. Would advise throwing that key away & replace it. I don't want to spend your money for you, but it may be worth starting a list of bits you're going to need. If the list grows, it may be worth seeing if you can obtain all the parts from U.S , either via a member on RS, or a single retailer in one batch to keep shipping/duty costs down.. The original Key has a step cut out in it (most aftermarket ones haven't). Still available- Google or Auction search Tecumseh 30884 . Points, Condenser and coil are all still available. What are you stuck on?. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jparkes43 27 #50 Posted June 8, 2015 yes the taper is a little damaged. really? it looks ok, where else could i get one? or could i make one by cutting some steel? yes so say has anyone got....... ok i see i might have a look. oh it might be worth then replacing the whole thing. the only thing i was stuck on is what to do next. like its defiantly not worth just putting back together as is because it wont work? james Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
