Versatiller

[Anglo Traction 1,016]

If you haven't found a Manual yet, here is a link (virus checked) from a reliable site-

http://www.asos1.com/tecumseh4hp/Tecumseh.pdf

 

You'll have to search for the Carb data/part lists, as I can't find that Dellorto Carb version listed in the Engine Manual or the separate Carb Manual.

That's why I had a problem recognising the strange Filter set up. Not familiar with these later 'Built under License' versions.

Only familiar with Earlier U.S.  'H' series Engines and Lauson Carbs.

 

Plenty of Info on FHC 2013a out there though. Hope you find what you need and get it sorted and working.

 

[Wristpin 400]

The Dellorto is pretty simple and much like any other small float bowl carb, throttle spindles wear and admit air, float needles wear as do the float pivot bars. The last two can be compensated for by a bit of judicious tweaking!

Carb bowl O rings can still be found and complete carb sets can still be had from the UK Dellorto agent, Eurocarb.

Removing the main jet ( emulsion tube) requires a hollow ground parallel sided screw driver to avoid terminal damage to the slot in the jet and subsequent need to drill it out and search for a replacement - you've been warned!!

Edited January 23, 2016 by Wristpin

[Wristpin 400]

Some Dellorto stuff

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4e5bvilavixv3iv/Dellorto0001.pdf?dl=0

 

Emulsion tube removal

 

[zipfelmuetze 7]

...some more work done today...

 

The fuel tank was full - full of water! So I checked whether it made it´s way into the engine as well...it looks ok-ish but the valves need cleaning and some abrasive paste to grind them nicely back and flush into their seats. However, I can´t open the engine front cover because this bulky thing sits on the main shaft which looks like it needs a puller to get rid of it - is that correct? It looks rather rusty and I wouldn´t be surprised if resists coming off. 

 

[nigel 1,876]

a puller should get that off

[pmackellow 2,738]

Not a brilliant photo but here's my two Versatiller Mark 4s...

 

[Wristpin 400]

Your "bulky thing" , a sleeve or muff coupling may need a puller but if you have an anvil or well supported lump of steel and a lump hammer you can try shocking it to " stretch" it. Place the coupling square on the support and then smack it squarel with the hammer . Turn it through 90 degrees and repeat , then turn and repeat again. This may break any rust seal stretch it enough to release it..

When it is off, be aware that there is possibly a ball race retained with a circlip behind the oil seal , so pull the seal and have a look before struggling to remove the crankcase side cover.

[zipfelmuetze 7]

Thank You all for the hints. I used my best 2 pullers as well as heating it, vice, sweat, you name it...it will not come off! I call it a day now...

 

Cheers,

 

Steph

[Wristpin 400]

Give it the "stretching" treatment  - it will give!

 

If yours has the ball bearing crank on the PTO side, this is what you will find.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qsnl8etvvfo3g0g/Aspera%2CTec%20ball%20bearing%20PTO0001.pdf?dl=0

[zipfelmuetze 7]

Give it the "stretching" treatment  - it will give!

 

If yours has the ball bearing crank on the PTO side, this is what you will find.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qsnl8etvvfo3g0g/Aspera%2CTec%20ball%20bearing%20PTO0001.pdf?dl=0

 

I´ll give it a try - I have a big Record 75 vice with a small anvil - that should do. 

 

S

[Wristpin 400]

Would hate to see your vice damaged. If you have a sledge hammer it might be easier to hold that on one side while smiting the other side with the heaviest ball pein that you can muster.

As far as heating goes, it will take a lot of BTUs to have any useful effect - more than the average "domestic" blow lamp  and probably more than a normal workshop propane torch - it's oxy acetylene and red heat territory.

Hayterettes with seized blade carrier discs were a case of remove the fuel tank, insert a sheet of steel and pile of soaking wet rags to protect the sump and bring the disc boss to red heat.

[nigel 1,876]

Get the angle grinder out with a thin cutting blade on it will be off in a couple of mins

[zipfelmuetze 7]

Would hate to see your vice damaged. If you have a sledge hammer it might be easier to hold that on one side while smiting the other side with the heaviest ball pein that you can muster.

As far as heating goes, it will take a lot of BTUs to have any useful effect - more than the average "domestic" blow lamp  and probably more than a normal workshop propane torch - it's oxy acetylene and red heat territory.

Hayterettes with seized blade carrier discs were a case of remove the fuel tank, insert a sheet of steel and pile of soaking wet rags to protect the sump and bring the disc boss to red heat.

I see...ok, I´ll try to find something more suitable - think I can get my hands on a piece of railway track as support.

 

 

Get the angle grinder out with a thin cutting blade on it will be off in a couple of mins

 

It will certainly come off this way but then I can´t use it any more and it is an important part to drive the shaft. I don´t have a welder to fill the cut afterwards.

 

S

[Wristpin 400]

The angle grinder suggestion is very much s**t or b**t  and should not be necessary. Not only that but welding it back up afterwards will probably shrink it and if done on the shaft make it as difficult to remove in the future and if done off the shaft it may require reaming to get it back on!

[nigel 1,876]

Yes I forgot not everyone has a lathe to make a new one

[zipfelmuetze 7]

Yes I forgot not everyone has a lathe to make a new one

 

Is that a volunteer coming forward    ?

 

S

[S1g 579]

Is it really neccasarry to remove it? I've been doing small engines scince I was about 12 but I very rarely remove the crankcase half, so if everything else is alright I'd personally leave well alone.

[zipfelmuetze 7]

Is it really neccasarry to remove it? I've been doing small engines scince I was about 12 but I very rarely remove the crankcase half, so if everything else is alright I'd personally leave well alone.

 

I wouldn`t usually do it, but there was water in the fuel tank and carb and the inlet valve is rather rusty. I need to take out both valves for a proper cleaning. There are also rusty bits everywhere so the engine would really benefit from a proper cleaning - hopefully good enough to leave it alone for the next couple of years.

 

S

[Anglo Traction 1,016]

Is it really neccasarry to remove it? I've been doing small engines scince I was about 12 but I very rarely remove the crankcase half, so if everything else is alright I'd personally leave well alone.

Just wondering about that myself.

From your pics Stephan, the bore look's reasonable with a bit of carbon scoring here and there.

Most of that Valve corrosion is from Atmospheric moisture from non use with the valves open.

.

The Crankcase Oil seal on the output side where your stubborn Coupling is look's dry, so no leaks or worn bearing issues yet.

If the Oil that comes out of (if any) the Crankcase is not emulsified with water, then to get an idea of 'Big End' wear you could use a Dial Indicator on the Piston top and checking the amount of Crank rotation before registering any movement just to satisfy your curiosity.

Flush the Crankcase, or just replenish with fresh Oil.

 

All the Valve work and Valve Chest/Breather clean should be able to be/can be done without Crankcase invasion.

So you may at least leave the Coupling on the Shaft for the time being in order to get the engine running ?.

 

I don't know if you have applied any Penetrating Oil to that Coupling (look's dry in your pic), but it would be the first thing to do and leave it to soak.

I see evidence of previous attempts to bash the Coupling off by the lip nearest the Crankcase in the same pic.

If you succeed in getting the engine to run ok, then using the machine will/should assist in loosening that well oiled coupling a tad should you need to disturb it again.

Only suggestions to minimise initial evaluation............... If it runs ok, you can always take it down for a big service later!.

[zipfelmuetze 7]

Just wondering about that myself.

 

Actually, I will probably ending up doing exactly what you describe. If the cupling does not come off then I will give it a good clean and new oil and that`s it. I was just thinking that I can as well do it properly while the engine is out now. I did/do motorcycle and moped engines as well and often is worth at least checking that no broken gear bits are in the sump to avoid later surprises or end up with an even more damaged engine. I never had an engine like this, so it is curiosity driven as well

 

S

[Fix'em all 49]

Hi, I have just joined this forum as I have recently bought what I believe is a mk2 versatiller with a Vincent 75cc engine. It is virtually complete & in very good condition. I expect to have it running in the next week or two. It has an unusual foot start system, but I do not have the folding stand that raises the tines. This is all it seems to need apart from the air filter has been damaged & has been taped up. I dare say these are like hens teeth.

Ian

[pmackellow 2,738]

Hello Ian and

 

Any pictures of your Versatiller ??

 

I've got a Mark 2 (and a Mark 1 and two mark 4s) so would be interested to see another one !!

 

Paul

[Fix'em all 49]

Hi Paul, I will take a few photos this week & post them. I missed out on a nice one of these about 12 months ago & was lucky enough to find this one badly described on ebay. I would like to get hold of a stand for the tines but may have to make something up.

Ian

[Fix'em all 49]

I have added the Versatiller photo's as an album. All comments welcome please.

 

Ian

[pmackellow 2,738]

That's a tidy one Ian, good find