Honda MadTrax V Twin Quad.. Nearly Finished.. Woo Hoo

[Ian 2,417]

On 07/03/2018 at 5:09 PM, Stormin said:

You must have the patience of a saint, Ian.

 

Nah, I just don't like making things easy for myself

 

Back to the rear light and I needed some sheet steel to make it from.
This will do..

 

 

 

Yes it came from our old tumble drier and still has some fluff on it to prove it

 

 

 

A grinder with a 1mm disc was used to cut the long slices, a sharpened screwdriver (yes it was a very old one of which I have many) was used to chop the ends out.

No idea why certain photo's like to turn the wrong way!

 

 

 

Lot's of time spent with a file later and the lens almost fits.

 

 

 

Time to bend the edges round, wanting a nice curve some bar stock was used for beating around.

 

 

 

Ta-Daa.

 

 

 

 

A lens check.

 

 

 

"Let there be light"

 

 

 

And held in postion.

 

[Stormin 4,458]

Neat!

[Ian 2,417]

It was at this point my hands were not too happy about beating and shaping metal, so I thought I do something less hand straining on the lathe..

 

This UJ was part of the drive system when I thought lot's of UJ's were a good idea!

 

 

 

The problem is I had also welded a splined bit inside one end, and the said splined bit fit's the splined shaft that comes out the bike gearbox!

 

 

 

It's a shame to chop a UJ up, but when needs must..

Here's what's left of the UJ on the lathe having just broken through one end so I can get to the splined bit.

 

 

 

The hidden splines..

 

 

 

Knocked out with a hammer and drift.

 

 

 

All that work for this little bit of steel slid on the gearbox shaft!

 

 

 

2 minutes ago, Stormin said:

Neat!

 

Thanks mate

 

 

Time to think about mounting this large lump of 90'd drive!

 

 

 

This 10mm thick steel plate  should be strong enough

 

 

 

Lot's of lathe and drill action later... (all the action coming up in the next video).

 

 

 

 

Bolted on..

 

 

 

 

 

[Ian 2,417]

It was at this point I started to have a few of those "Groundhog day" sort of moments!

 

Having worked out how to make a shaft that fit's over the gearbox splines, has a bearing at the other end and also has a sproket in the middle, I proceeded to make a mess of things 3 times!

 

Attempt 1...  Having just checked the bearing fit I forgot to tighten the tailstock back up for the final cut! The result was some nice deep gouges!   (not seen in this pic as I trimmed some more off to check which tools cut best)

 

 

 

Attempt 2... Counted twice what I should of done and took too much metal off making the bearing a loose fit!

 

 

 

Attempt 3!!!    All was going well until I broke a small drill bit off about 1/2 inch in!!   No way of getting it out!

 

 

 

Attempt 4... In it's raw state

 

 

 

And attempt 4 in it's finished (and correctly sized) state.

 

 

 

Not a perfect finish inside, but the measurements are right.

 

 

 

The splined bit pressure fitted, a nice tight fit.. It will be welded on then the welds and overhang will be tidied up on the lathe.

 

 

 

And finally with the bearing, I still need to buy the sprockets but as they will need boring out to fit the shaft I could get on and make this part..

 

 

 

 

I have just started making a sleeve to fit over the TB input shaft... Let's hope I only need to make it once

[Ian 2,417]

Morning all, sorry I've not been on MOM in a while, life has been er... Interesting shall we say!

 

Anyway, an update for you..

 

Plenty more lathe work to go, I needed to make something that would fit over this stepped shaft on the TB input side of things.
The reason being I need to fit a sprocket to the shaft but there isn't a keyway for location, only splines at the outer end.

 

 

Lot of time was spent with some 40mm bar to create this.




Outer splines presure fitted to the sleave one end, it will be welded also.




Stepped inside to fit the shaft. It would of been nice to cut a taper inside to match taper on the shaft, but don't have the tools to do it..




Splined sleeve bolted on the TB shaft, the sleeve walls are not thick enough to cut a keyway so the sprocket will have to be welded on.


 

 

Back to the 90'd drive thingy from the Honda Silverwing that I'm using to turn the drive around..

On the bike the rear wheel would of bolted to this bit.

 

 

 

But I need to put the drive from the gearbox into the 90'd drive from this way... But how to bolt a sprocket to it?

Starting with a slab of 10mm thick steel and a photo that won't turn the right way!

 

 

 

To bolt the splined bit flush on the plate I had to cut a wide groove in one face.

 

 

 

That looks good.

 

 

 

 

To fit a sprocket to all this a shaft is needed.. This will do.

 

 

 

It fits in the circular plate like this, the tapers will  be filled with weld.

 

 

 

The other side will get welded on and the welds turned down to look good on the lathe.. The shaft has been made over sized as I don't know the measurements until I get the sprockets and try to fit the whole thing in place.

 

 

 

This is quite a big "whole thing" to fit!

 

[Ian 2,417]

As I don't have the sprockets yet (they will be ordered once I've finished this update) and most of the jobs left to do involve having the 90'd drive in place, I was scrathing around for something to do on MadTrax, so I decided to sort this little problem out!

 

 

 

The problem being it should fit here (the tape is only to keep the dust etc out), but I don't have a key for it!

 

 

 

But I do have this tank from a Honda CX trike with a locking cap... I feel a bit of tank slicing coming up

 

 

 

It would of been a shame to scrap the fantasic art work...

 

 

 

So I now have some more wall decoration

 

 

 

The filler hole section was cut from the CX tank, cleaned up and tried for size on MadTrax's tank.

 

 

 

To mark where I would need to cut on MT's tank I needed to cut out a small section so the new bit would sit flat..

 

 

 

And here is the very same hole after being part welded back in!   Yes my brain wasn't functioning to well that day and I cut too much out!

 

 

 

The correct size hole marked and cut out..

 

 

 

A test fit, only a few little tweaks needed..

 

 

 

While I was getting on with the welding Rob was cleaning all the paint off the locking cap thingy.

 

 

 

Quite a few layers of paint!

 

 

 

Ta-Daa

 

 

 

As you can see with the flap open it needs a little bit of filler work.. Not much though

 

 

 

I gave it a quick coat of paint to help show up where I may of missed any welding...    Here's one of the holes.

 

 

 

The new cap looks the part, I can't decide if it needs painting of just a coat of matt clear coat.. Time will tell

 

 

 

 

[Ian 2,417]

Morning all, time for another long overdue update..

 

Not having the sprockets at this point I was scratching around for something to do on MadTrax, so I thought I'd continue with the rear light..

 

Starting with this not quite flat steel sheet. By not quite flat I mean the sheet has had a big cross pattern pressed into it which I though would be good for the back of the light box..

 

 

 

Marked out ready for cutting.

 

 

 

Lot's of chopping, welding and weld dressing later I had this.

 

 

 

The cut out at the base is so the box can fit over the anit roll bar tube.

 

 

 

These ar the buld holders I will be using..

 

 

 

This ally plate is the right thickness to hold the er.. holders nice and tight, so five holes and a bit of cleaning up later..

 

 

 

To mount the bulb holder plate to the inside of the light box but leave enough space behind for wiring etc I made one of these..

 

 

 

Captive nuts welded on the back.

 

 

 

A quick bulb test fit.

 

 

 

Curved panel made to fit the anti roll bar hole..

 

 

 

But before it was welded on the bulb holder plate was plug welded in..

Checking the bulb holder still fit.. They do

 

 

 

 

 

A view inside.

 

 

 

Lot's of welding and weld dressing to do..

 

 

 

 

That looks better

 

 

 

 

Best check it still fit's MadTrax!!

 

It does

 

 

 

 

More to come after this short-ish break

 

[Ian 2,417]

Ok, maybe that wasn't such a short-ish break

 

Back to the rear light box..Some of the welds down the sides needed a few extra blobs of weld to tidy them up..

 

 

 

The front edges needed a bead of weld to fuse metal together..  To make life easier I clamped on a flat brass bar to weld against as welds will not stick to the brass..

 

 

 

As you will of noticed on the above photo the longest which is also the top panel is a little on the wonky side..

A big thank you to Rob for the square which came in handy for showing how wonky wonky is..

 

 

 

As the metal is too stretched to hammer flat some extra straight strength needs to be added..

Starting with a strip of double skinned steel.

 

 

 

Most of one skin was cut away leaving only a small rolled edge sort of thing.

 

 

 

A quick trip to the sheet metal folder which I should use more than I do!

 

 

 

Plug welded inside.. The bit of black box section is only to make sure everything clamps down flat..

 

 

 

Can you spot a slight problem here?

Yep, the box is such a good tight fit it won't come back out again!

 

 

 

The next step was to make some mounts for the rear light, but a parcel turned up containing these sprockets

 

 

 

The rear light is going to have to wait, getting the drive train finally finished needs to come first..

Soooooo, the first sprocket on the lathe being bored out to a larger ID..

 

 

 

And that is this thread upto date again..

 

Hope your all enjoying the build

 

[Ian 2,417]

Morning all, a small update for ya..

I have been mostly spending a lot of time at the lathe turning down this, boring out that, and trueing up the other.

 

Not that many photo's but this was quite interesting to make out of two parts and a bit of welding.

It's not quite finished in the photo, only a bit of tidying to do..

 

 

 

A bored out sprocket is a nice tight fit on the shaft.

 

 

 

Not the fun part, making the 90'd drive thingy fit in not much space..

 

It's in there somewhere!

 

 

 

 

This view might help to see what's going on.

 

 

 

The plan was to fit this sprocket to the shaft that comes from the Honda gearbox..

 

 

 

And put this bearing at the end to hold things steady..

The trouble is, not enough space, the drive shaft to the front takes up a fair bit of space too!

 

 

 

Soooo... The plan now is to mount this bigger bearing a lot closer to the gearbox case and fit the sprocket on the end only much more forward than it was..

Of course I don't have a bearing holder for the bigger bearing!

 

 

 

So a bit of thick steel slicing..

 

 

 

Cut's well for a £10 power saw

 

 

 

An almost flat plate.

 

 

 

Flat and mostly bored out..

 

 

 

And that's about as far as I've got at the moment, all this making "one of" parts does take it's time..

 

But where would be the fun if I just bought everything and bolted it on?

 

 

[Ian 2,417]

Morning all, time for a long overdue update.

To try and keep this in some sort of time order we had best start with a video..

 

 

[Ian 2,417]

Where were we? Oh yes, making a bearing holder..

Some more turning later and half of the bearing holder was just the right size, a nice tight fit that will need gentle press pressure to push it in.

 

 

 

No idea why these photo's are being turned sideways when I upload them, but anyway here's half the bearing holder and a blank other half.

 

 

 

Both sides done.

 

 

 

The four holes in each half are there so the bearing can be punched back out the holder should needs be..

 

 

 

Time to fit the bearing... Almost..

As the holder will have to be taken on and off MadTrax many many times, and a bit of drilling and grinding going on, rather than fit the bearing and risk it getting full of nasty stuff I made....

 

 

 

This fake bearing

 

 

 

 

With a little bit of trimming to the inside half of the bearing holder a test fit was in order..

 

 

 

It's rather tight on one of the engine mounts, but it fit's

 

 

 

Looks like the sprockets can be made to line up

 

 

 

Now the big one... Will the shaft from the transfer box to the front fit without hitting anything and how tight will the UJ angles be?

 

It fit's and the UJ angles are well under 33'degrees, if I remember right the rear UJ angle is about 12'D and the front is a tad over 20.. Much better than it used to be

 

 

 

It's tight but there is plenty of clearance

 

 

[Ian 2,417]

The bearing holder was drilled and a tapped so the two bit's could be bolted together..

A clean up on the lather later and the bearing was pressed in..

I couldn't of been happier with the fit of the bearing

 

 

 

 

Fitted.. Just out of view behind the holder is a couple of tack welds just to hold the holder in the right place.. and yes the spocket is free to move at the moment as I don't know quite how far up/down the shaft it needs to go.

 

 

 

Now onto the fun part.. Getting the 90'd drive in the right place..

Which is where the bit of angle that is bolted to the drive will come in handy.

If you look behind the air filter you can just see 3 more bit's bolted to the drive case..

 

 

 

The go up and get clamped to a couple of bit's of box.. This will hold things steady and give me enough adjustment to adjust it's postition.

 

 

 

But before I square the drive up I need to make the last bit of the drive puzzle and fit a sprocket and bearing to the hollow shaft that's coming out of the drive..

That should keep me busy tomorrow

 

[Ian 2,417]

Well, morning all. It's been a while since I updated this as pulling apart a Volvo had been taking up most of my time.. Making bits on the lathe for MadTrax has taken a while as well..

 

Anyway..

 

A shaft was needed to slide over the splines on the 90 degree drive thingy to get the power out the same side as it need to go in the transfer box.. Here it is on the lathe.

 

 

 

The shaft with the splined bit pushed tightly on the end.. Just needs welding up then back on the lathe for the final machining.

 

 

 

 

That looks better, turned down to size ready for a bearing on the end..

 

 

 

But how to hold it in the right place for making bearing mountings as we all know splines always have a bit of play in them?

This will do the job

 

 

 

 

Slid over the shaft.. Once it is tack welded to the flat plate behind it will hold the shaft steady... I hope that makes sense?

 

 

 

Now another fun bit.. A long long time was spent getting the 90 degree drive in exactly the right place.. No mean feat considering it had to be right in so many planes!

To make sure it stayed put, the tempoary mountings (bit of angle) were temporarily tacked in place..

 

 

 

[Ian 2,417]

In the last above photo you can see the square bit of plate bolted to the end of the 90 degree drive thingy... Well, it didn't stay square for long..

Ok, it's not perfectly round, but that's not a problem as you will see.

 

 

 

But what to fit it in??  

A bit of this 5 1/2 diameter pipe will do

Yes I know it doesn't look that safe, but due to the weight of it, it wasn't going anywhere..

 

 

 

A 2 inch bit of pipe with both sides faced off on the lathe.

 

 

 

The lip I cut on the round plate makes it a perfect fit in the bit of pipe.

 

 

 

Plonked on to have a look..

 

 

 

A lot of welding later including 3 long runs inside and I don't think the plate and pipe will be parting company anytime soon

 

 

[Ian 2,417]

As much as I would of liked to weld the big pipe into the frame to make it all very strong, I wouldn't be able to get the transfer box out if I did!  So I have made up some curved mounts which you will see in the next update..

 

But while I was at it I thought it maight be an idea to bolt a few bits in place to check everything still fitted..

 

 

 

With a bit of trimming and a lot of strengthening the bearing block can be made to fit flush on to the n/s foot rest which keeps things neat and tidy, but the footrest will need a lot of extra strength added.

 

 

 

I did at one point think I would have to widen the foot rests as the chain, sprocket and bearing would take up so much space.. But with the bearing mounted flush the chain and sprocket hardly poke through at all, also the 90 degree mount only takes an inch or so foot space away from a bit of the footrest that doen't feel a natural place to put your foot anyway..

So no widening needed, just a bit of extra mesh to go over the chain..

Oh, I do have some much better looking mesh to replace the rather tatty looking mesh thats fitted already,

 

 

 

A view of the back.. The chain needs to lose a link and a half and there is plenty of space to put a chain tensioner.

 

 

 

Good news with the o/s footrest as well..

The drive shaft that goes to the front now takes up so little space (much closer to the engine etc) that all I need to do is put a cover over it so it doesn't try and grab my boot laces as it spins..

 

 

 

Plenty of space to mount the barke pedal as well

 

 

 

And that is where I have got to on this build as of yesterday.... We shall see what progress Thurs/Friday brings as I want to spend next Mon/Tuesday having a play with Project Wheel-Vo

 

[Ian 2,417]

Morning all, sorry it's been so long between updates.. Life has kept me so busy of late that I've not really been at the workshop that much!

 

Having got the 90 degree drive thing in the right place, it needed to be mounted strongly.

The curved brackets were made by welding on end to the large bit of thick wall pipe and beating it around with a large hammer while it was still hot from welding.. I thought I had some photo's of that stage but I can't find them!

As you can see it's all only tacked in place at the mo, it will only get fully welded once I know the transfer box etc can actually be removed from the frame!  In theory they should, but you never 100% know for sure until you try..

 

 

 

 

A thrid mount will be going down to the frame but I couldn't work out exactlly where until I had made and mounted a strengthening plate that runs between the frame rails..

 

Of course I did not have a large enough thick enough bit of steel plate, so I had to make one..

Missing a few photo's here but I had to slice up a Wh 312-8 fuel tank/fender pan mount for the steel..

 

Clamped down ready for welding.

 

 

 

Leaving a big enough gap to fill with weld.

 

 

 

Weld won't stick to brass so a brass plate was clamped to the underside.. The black bit is ally which works as well, it just burns away a lot faster..

 

 

 

Welded, shaped and roughly put in place.

 

 

 

To mount the plate I knocked up four of these captive nut brackets.

 

 

 

In order to center punch the flat plate in the right place for dilling I drilled a hole though a spare bolt that was only just big enough to get my punch in.. It makes sure the punch mark is in the center of the capive nuts.

 

 

 

Brackets tacked on.

 

 

 

Lot's of chopping and welding later the plate now has some strengthening holes including one just below the odd shaped tube and bit of box 90 degree drive mount so a ratchet can be used to bolt it on..

 

 

 

A pic from the other side with the third tube mount tacked in place.

 

[Ian 2,417]

With the above done the time had come to mount the bearing that holds the shaft out of the transfer box up.

Here it is roughly in place, the foot rest thingy still needs a little trimming at this point.

 

 

 

The next four photo's were taken from video footage I took quite a while back, but they are handy for showing a part I had to make.

 

The end of the shaft in the TB has splines which as we all know have a little play in them.

 

 

 

To hold the shaft in exactly the righ place I make up this collar/sleave/thingy..

 

 

 

 

Which slides over the shaft and when flat against the plate hold the shaft in the right place.

 

 

 

Skipping forward in time again the collar/sleave/thingy has been tacked in place. Once the bearing is mounted it will be removed.

 

 

 

The old steel mesh was removed from the foot rest (I have some new mesh which matches the exhaust guard) and a nice strong bearing mounting plate welded on.

Oh, the top tube has also been sliced off and welded back on with a nice strong steel bar inside for extra strength.

 

 

 

A view from the back, I need to get a half link to shorten the chain and make a tensioner thingy.

 

 

 

One thing I was worried about was how much the chain would stick through the footrest... As you can see it doesn't stick though at all.. Me happy with that

 

And that is where I have got too, with a bit of luck I will have more time next week to spend at the workshop..

[Ian 2,417]

Morning all, only a small update I'm afraid, life is still keeping me very busy and I don't see it getting quieter anytime soon!

 

Not much to show really, but I have been working on mounting the rear brake pedal and cylinder.

 

Quite a hard thing to photo if you don't have a clear different colour background!

 

 

 

I have fitted the Quadzilla brake pedal, it was originally a flat plate that was bolted to all sorts of places to give it strength.

 

 

 

As I couldn't do that I had to box it in. Here's the other side.

 

 

 

Brake cylinder bolted on.

 

 

 

The whole footrest/brake pedal mount thingy bolted back on.

The rubber hose to the reservoir will sit just under the steel mesh when it's put back on.

The pedal looks like it's lying almost flat, but it's in the right place if you pivot your foot on the end of the footrest which is where your feet naturally fall

 

 

 

 

I will make a shield that uses the cylinder bolts to add so side protection to the cylinder..

 

 

 

Starting to look a bit busy with the exhaust and driveshaft plonked in place, the propshaft guard will take up a bit more space as well.

 

 

 

And that's as far as I have got photo wise.. I have been making a bearing mount removable and made two of the four mounts needed to go on the bearing that holds the shaft that comes out the bike gearbox..

I will get some photo's tomorrow that might explain it a bit better than I did above

 

[Ian 2,417]

Morning all, well the point of starting MadTrax up and testing the runnning gear on the bench isn't far off..

 

Time is still lacking but I have made a good start on the transfer box to from diff drive/prop shafts.

 

I've not taken many photo's and even less video footage as I just wanted to get bit's done while I had the time.

 

Holding a small shaft in place to measure up and work things out was a right pain until I quickly made this "bit of tube welded to box" which holds the shaft in the right place.

 

 

 

The shaft to the front has been extended and made a slightly bigger diameter to fit the new UJ.. I've not welded the shaft up yet just in case any adjustment is needed.

 

 

 

 

Here's one of the bearing brackets I made up.. Think it's going to need a lot of trimming now everything is a lot closer to the engine..

 

[Ian 2,417]

Morning all, not sure if anyone is still reading this, but if you are thanks and here's a rather large update for you.

 

Starting with a video in order to try and keep things in order..

 

 

 

I hope you all enjoyed that..

 

So where were we??   Oh yes, mounting the bearings that make up part of the drive system to the front.

 

The original mounts were trimmed back until only the plates with captive nuts were left.
Here they are bolted to the back of the bearings, ready to be tacked onto the frame.
The random bit of angle is there to keep the tops in line.

 

 

 

And without the bearings, just tacked on.

 

 

 

A bit hard to see in the next two photo's, the bearing mounts now have extra strength with gussets added.. As ever not fully welded in these pic's.

 

 

 

 

The front er... prop/drive/transfer shaft thingy has been welded up, I will be adding some extra rows of weld "just in case" and to tidy the shaft up a bit.

 

 

 

The other end is fitted in place with a tight fitting roll pin.
Oh, if your wondering the shaft does look like it's running true  

 

 

 

One last thing to do before the drive system is finished... Attach all the sprockets to the shafts..
Starting with the first and second in line there was a bit of lining up work to do..
Here's No 1.

 

 

 

A close up and you can see the chain wants to bend to the right or forwards if you will.
A bit of extra space between the chain and bearing holder would also be nice..

 

 

 

At the other end of that chain things were also a bit tight between the chain and bearing..

 

 

 

To solve the problem this part came back out for a bit of turning so the sprocket could be moved away from the bearing.

 

 

 

Before welding the sprocket onto the shaft (no space for a roll pin) Rob started toasting all of it..

 

 

 

As both the sprocket and shaft thingy were very cold, both were heated up so the cold metal wouldn't just suck the heat out of the weld.

 

 

 

The 90 degree drive thingy out.. A big moment as it means everything will come out of the frame.. Phew lol

 

 

 

While the drive system was out I was able to do a bit of extra welding inside the frame, as some bit's were only tacked together at this point..

 

 

 

 

For some reason I forgot to take load of pic's of the next stages, so the photo's might seem a bit random..

This bearing holder needed a few mounts.. Two mounts this side..

 

 

 

Making the mounts for this inside was more interesting, I also had to make lower mounts for the big blue bearing..
No photo's of this done but you will see it in the next video.

 

 

 

Chain half links and a sprocket turned up, this is part of the chain tensioner, so the sprocket was bored out to take a bearing each side.

 

 

 

 

The transfer box idiot light switches were removed as the exhaust would melt them also they are not really needed.

 

 

 

A couple of ally blanking plates blocked the holes back up.

 

 

 

 

 

The finished chain tensioner thingy..

 

 

 

I think a 30mm bolt head is about the right size and in no way oversized  

 

 

 

I think now's the time to drop in Part 24 of the build videos..

 

 

[Ian 2,417]

A bit more work on the fuel tank was done, mostly welding up the odd hole I had missed.

 

 

 

There's one!

 

 

 

One or two on the underside as well.

 

 

 

Not all the holes were that obvious, but putting a little compressed air into the tank made them easier to find..

Some bit's were just welded up to tidy them up.

 

 

 

The exhaust system got the same treatment.. Find the holes and weld them up..

 

 

 

 

 

Finally the build had got to the "see if the drive system worked" point of things...

 

Sooooo......

 

 

 

Which left only two things to do..

 

No 1.. Quickly give Madtrax some brakes.. Quickly as in back brakes only..

 

No 2... Get MadTrax off the bench and go for a test drive..  

 

 

[Stormin 4,458]

 Good to see it running, Ian.

[Ian 2,417]

On 9/26/2018 at 10:52 AM, Stormin said:

 Good to see it running, Ian.

 

Thanks Norm, it's good to have it driving after all this time. 

 

Soooo, what does it drive like?

 

Well, very good as it happens.. MadTrax feels very stable and planted with not even a hint of "it's going to topple over"  

Oh, and it's fast... In high ratio of course..    Trying to work out the gearing is impossible, so I'm going to guess it will top out about 80mph..

Not that I fancy doing that sort of speed on a quad of course 

 

Off road it's just as good, it feels almost unstoppable.

Rob and I were testing it by driving across deep ruts back and forth..  Eventually it started spinning the rear wheels, flick the switch to 4x4 mode and it pulled it's self out straight away..

 

Amazingly despite the testing abuse nothing broke!  Me happy with that 

 

A few minor little problems to sort..

During the off road testing MadTrax did get rather hot, in a "needle in the red" sort of way!

Part of the problem was an airlock in the cooling system, of course the highest point is where the temp sender is!

As the water level in the expansion tank is no longer dropping I guess all the air has gone out the system..

 

The other part of the problem is while riding MadTrax, the engine is at high RPM but the quad isn't moving that fast to push cold air through the rad..

So I have got an extra cooling fan to fix to the outside of the rad, it should help things out..

 

One thing the engine is doing that I wish it wouldn't is it's running very rich!

The carbs have already been cleaned out, so a bit of carb tuning and balancing will be done when MadTrax goes back together..

 

I did try and get some off road video footage, but for some reason I was having a bad camera day and didn't notice the camera was already recording..

So when I hit the "start recording" button to film the action, I was actually stopping recording!

The end result was I had mostly footage of "the bits inbetween" rather than the action!  

 

No photo's other than this screen grab of MadTrax ripping up the grass.. The smoke is from the over fueling!

 

 

 

MadTrax is now back up on the bench ready to be pulled apart tomorrow or Friday.

Lot's of bit's to be "fully welded up", and painted.

[Ian 2,417]

Not much to report other tha MadTrax now looks like this!!

 

 

 

With a bit of luck I will get the strip down video finished and up today, so you can see how the above happened

[Anglo Traction 1,016]

13 hours ago, Ian said:

Not much to report other than MadTrax now looks like this!!

 

Reminds me of a skeletal version of a House Robot from the Wars......Dead Metal-ish . Regret not being able to pay a visit yet Ian. Hopefully in the near future.