Ohlsson & Rice Strikemaster Icemaster Auger

[CNew 404]

Thought I would share my latest edition. Picked up this Strikemaster Icemaster today. Runs ok but need a thorough cleaning and tune up.

[factory 487]

I've seen this exact one before, it was Oakslayer's, see the links below for what has already been done/changed;

 

I did try messaging him on here in May to try & buy it myself, but as he hasn't visited since Feb I never got a reply, but it's good to see someone on here has bought it.

 

David

[CNew 404]

Wow, that’s too funny.  Yep, I met Oakslayer/Keith today to pick it up. I need to look into it further to see what he meant with the “seal leaking” reference.  As soon as I can get some fuel/oil mixed I’ll be able to run it longer and get a better sense for what issues it might have, if any. I haven’t tried the auger yet to see if it turns. It has a fair amount of chipped paint and stickers pealing off.  I need to decide if I ant to fix it up or leave as-is and just get it running well.

 

I’m curious, are there any common problems that the later O&R engines are known for or the ones after Advanced Engine Products bought them out? This one is a model 13B.

 

Clint

[Fix'em all 49]

He probably means a crankcase seal on a 2 stroke. It will run but throttle response is vague & lacking power

[factory 487]

10 hours ago, CNew said:

I haven’t tried the auger yet to see if it turns. It has a fair amount of chipped paint and stickers pealing off.  I need to decide if I ant to fix it up or leave as-is and just get it running well.

Personally I would keep it as is with the original paint (it really doesn't look that bad too me & the chrome is good too) and try & reattach the stickers (or get replicas made if they are too damaged), by the way this is the only one I've seen branded as Strikemaster so very rare too, of course it's your choice.

I would only consider a repaint if there was very little paint left, as I like them to show their age & originality, something which can't be brought back once repainted.

 

The leaking seals will refer to the rubber crankshaft seals, another common problem with O&R's, original NOS seals are very hard too find but they can be replaced with appropriate size O rings (can't remember if this is mentioned in the 'sticky' engine rebuild thread).

 

The one issue with the later 13B engines (carb arm seal) has already been replaced with older carb parts (see the linked threads).

 

The name changed to AEP around 1975 and there are no later adverts than 1978 (last time I looked), the company was dissolved in 1985.

I only have two AEP branded ones in my collection, one is a Drillgine (imported from the US) and the other looks to have been removed from a hedge-trimmer (bought in the UK).

 

David

[CNew 404]

David,

   I like the way you think. I’m going to keep it original and see what I can do to fix the stickers and clean up the paint without more of it chipping off.  I’ll have to read up on the o-ring/seal fix thread to see if I can somehow improve that issue.

 Thank you for the additional info on AEP as well. I just missed a Drillgine this past week on eBay and I’ve been kicking myself for not jumping on it. I’m still trying to learn what the value/price scale for some of these tools should be and I still don’t know what constitutes a good deal. Seems the range is quite large. If you haven’t seen it already there is a neat Warn winch O&R on there right now but they’re asking a lot for it (a lot in my book anyway) but it looks new.

 

Clint

[CNew 404]

Just to ensure I get the correct size, what is the recommended fuel line size for these O&R engines? I was planning to get some Tygon line and there are quite a few options.

[factory 487]

My local shop doesn't sell Tygon, but the Oregon tubing I have been using from them is 3/32" internal diameter, note the external diameter (3/16") is bigger than the original tubing used by O&R so the original fuel line clamps/clips will no longer fit (I have kept those in case I find something smaller in the future), but the tubing seems secure enough without them.

I'm sure the Tygon equivalent will be fine, maybe one of the US members can advise the type/size they use.

 

David

 

[CNew 404]

David,

   Thank you very much, that’s exactly what I needed!  I’ll check around for this size in Tygon but if that’s not available I will hunt down the Oregon tubing.

 

Clint

[CNew 404]

David,

   I’m definitely hooked now with these engines, they’re addictive. Do you have any recommendations on specific operator and service manuals or other sources of information for these O&Rs?  I saw a reference in another post to the Small Air Cooled Engines manual and I plan to get my hands on one of those as soon as possible. In addition to the engines I enjoy collecting misc advertisements and technical information and thought I would see if you had any suggestions of where I might go looking.

 

By the way, I think I’ve located some 3/32 x 3/16 Tygon fuel line.

 

Thanks!

 

Clint

[factory 487]

You should have a better chance than me of finding stuff in the US on ebay, as they hide stuff for people outside of whatever country in located in .

 

I have lots of stuff scanned from my collection (some of which has been added to various threads in the O&R section), if your interested in Magazine articles & adverts I could provide a list of titles/editions that can be found on the web for free.

 

The "Small Air Cooled Engines" service manual I have (16th edition published by Intertec) has 10 & a half pages for O&R/AEP out of the 400+ pages, I have a couple of older editions with less in. You should be able to find this book easily on Ebay, Abebooks or Amazon, etc.

 

3/32 x 3/16 Tygon fuel line sounds good.

 

David

[CNew 404]

Thanks David!

   I’m watching a couple eBay listings for the Small Air Cooled Engines manual. I also found a listing for a manual and parts list for an Orline chainsaw that probably has some good info as well.

   Let me know if there is anything specific you’d like for me to keep an eye out for here in the US and I’ll do my best to let you know if it shows up.  Happy to help however I can.

 

Clint

[factory 487]

I just went for the cheapest second-hand copy of the 'Small Air Cooled Engines' I could find, I paid around $8 including shipping from a seller in Detroit on Abebooks, a real bargain.

 

Is the Orline stuff the two separate BIN listings? If yes they are photocopies, I did buy those a few years back and an original too (the print on that is poor too).

 

Thanks for your other of help with finding US listings, scans of quite a bit of the literature for UK only O&R tools can be found on the forum too.

 

David

[CNew 404]

Nice, $8 is a good deal. I’ve done business in the past with Abebooks so I’ll have to check them out again as well.

 

Yes, I think you’re correct about the BIN listings, nice catch. I’d prefer to find originals when possible so I may hold off on these for now. Anoying when people don’t specify when they are selling photo copies.

 

Clint

[CNew 404]

David,

   I bought some UNI brand green filter foam that is 5/8” thick and I can cut out the circles to replace the old filter that has completely disentigrated.  Question, the UNI manufacturer recommends oiling the foam for proper filtration. Have you found this to be a good practice even for the O&R engines or should I avoid that step, just looking for a second opinion.

 

Thanks,

Clint

[factory 487]

I've had a look through various manuals for O&R tools and can only find one reference (in the Turbair manual) for using fuel mixture (which will become oil once the fuel evaporates) on the air cleaner/filter foam, most just mention washing with fuel or another solvent (not mixture).

 

David

 

 

P.S. I have heard of oiling air filters before (in the manual for an item of vintage 1960's HP electronic test gear, but OT for here but it's another of my hobbies), I haven't looked but I imagine the product mentioned is long since discontinued.

[CNew 404]

David,

    I’ve been looking on the UNI site and I think I’m now understanding that they are recommending just applying their special oil,  to a mixture, to the foam filter. Sounds like it’s some sort of fairly thick and sticky oil that you massage into the foam- I’m guessing to help catch the dust. Then they suggest cleaning with their cleaner of course. 

 

Thanks,

Clint

 

ps: I was able to find the Stihl HP oil (orange container) and some high quality fuel in a can that is distributed/sold by Toro (I think it is 92 octane). This should eliminate the potential of harmful additives and ethanol that is common in the standard service station gas around here.

Sorry, I mean to say “oil only, not a mixture” in my last post on oiling the filter.

[CNew 404]

 Not an Ohlsson but thought I’d show some pics of an old Tanaka TAS P-7 ice auger that I just picked up today. This thing is going to need some work!

[Webhead 95]

Ahhh, the Japanese knock off of the O&R that ran better and was more reliable...

[CNew 404]

Yes, there appear to be quite a few similarities. Reminds me of the early days of Datsun and Toyota.... I don’t know that much about Tanaka and these early engines but it should be fun to work in it one of these days. 

[factory 487]

Apart from the starter mechanism & tank the P-7 TAS motor (22cc) doesn't look to have much in common with the O&R Compact engine.

I'm not sure I believe all of what it says on the history page though;

https://www.metabo-hpt.com/us/main-navigation/tanaka-history

 

Given the fact that the O&R compact engine (approx 20cc -22cc) was in production at least a year or two before the P7 and many products & tools using O&R were available in 1961, they can't possibly claim this " 1962    Introduced the world’s smallest industrial general-purpose two-cycle engine- P7 (22cc) ".

 

From their history it does look like TAS/Tanaka went from bigger engines to smaller, whereas O&R originally made model engines before the larger Compact engine. But being Japanese it seems impossible to research some of the engines mentioned, nor can I find much about the connection with Villiers in the UK (misspelt Villers on the history page !).

 

David

[CNew 404]

Happy New Year David!

 

     Great info on the TAS, thank you! Your research skill is unmatched!  My comment on similarity to O&R was mainly visual and size- they are quite different engines. I still prefer the O&R but couldn’t pass up this TAS since it was just 5 min away from me here in town.  Even if I don’t get it running, it’s cool to look at. I started giving it a bath this morning and it’s cleaning up pretty well. It looked horrible when I picked it up but surprisingly once the grease and grime is coming off the paint and metal are in pretty nice shape. The issues I’ve encountered so far include: 1) the ignition coil wire is all but literally hanging on by a thread so I’m going to have to carefully try to reinforce it and seal it up. There is a section that is shredded down to the core wire and all the insulation is basically cracked away, and 2) the previous owner yanked the recoil rope too hard while trying to get it running before selling it and so that’s ripped out. I’ll have to dig into this and see if there is any major damage, hopefully the spring is still ok and I can just add a new rope.

 

Clint

One other issue is the red button part of the kill switch is missing. It’s a pretty unique button style switch so I may have to replace it with a vintage style button or toggle switch if I’m unsuccessful at finding something more close to original stock.

[CNew 404]

I love the translation...

[factory 487]

On 1/1/2019 at 3:05 PM, CNew said:

Great info on the TAS, thank you! Your research skill is unmatched!

 

I had found that link with the history a couple of years ago and it was added to another Tas Motor/Tanaka thread on here too (which I think you have already found).

 

I also have one Tanaka engine in my collection too, but don't know what it came off, not found anything as old as the P7 engine for sale in the UK yet though.

 

David

 

P.S. Like the translation too, now where can I get my "celebrated" motor oil .

[CNew 404]

I’m slowly making some progress going through the TAS P7 engine. I spent some time on the gas tank today and need to get some new sealing washers, add a new fuel filter and replace all the fuel lines. I have a new spark plug on order and I have the spark plug wire prepped for repair. It will be my first attempt using a new type of shrink wrap tape since I can’t slide the normal shrink tubing over the large end with the plug connector.  I also had some success finding a used, but in great condition, kill switch from a vintage Tanaka outboard motor that matches the broken one on the P7 so I’ll have to get that all wired up.