Comet c/saw

[JUST O&R 237]

I think that cover could be made it looks like just a thin metal cover. Once I get it going I might see if I can make one.

I'm not shore how I started looking at o&r but I'm glade I did very interesting. People that come in the shop can't

be-leave they run and we can still find parts.   tfor a parts price list I would like to start a parts data base

so I can put the parts I have in and the used parts off the one that will be cannibalized ? I have a list but a lot of 

numbers are not there . Collecting is a good thing what would you do if you didn't collect something ?

[factory 483]

On 7/25/2019 at 10:50 PM, Wallfish said:

Do you have one of those old school saws David?

 

No I've only got pictures of them, but I have got an engine I believe was intended as a spare for the Comet saw.

 

David

[CNew 403]

Nice job on the coil fix!

 

I wonder how well that one model survived having the grip handle mounted to the gas tank. Those gas tanks are pretty thin and flimsy, seems they would have been crushed with the weight of the saw being jerked around by that handle/knob.  It’s super cool looking though!

[JUST O&R 237]

This one is not bad the one David  showed pics of with the handle connected to the fuel cap I'm not sure how that would work.

like you said the tanks are very thin.

[factory 483]

On 7/26/2019 at 1:07 AM, JUST O&R said:

I think that cover could be made it looks like just a thin metal cover. Once I get it going I might see if I can make one.

 

It is thin steel & shouldn't be too hard to make, it attaches in the same place as the cylinder side plate, the later style coil cover would be trickier to make.

Some close up pictures of the early cover.

 

David

[factory 483]

On 7/26/2019 at 1:07 AM, JUST O&R said:

I'm not shore how I started looking at o&r but I'm glade I did very interesting. People that come in the shop can't

be-leave they run and we can still find parts.   tfor a parts price list I would like to start a parts data base

so I can put the parts I have in and the used parts off the one that will be cannibalized ? I have a list but a lot of 

numbers are not there . Collecting is a good thing what would you do if you didn't collect something ?

 

If you need some help identifying your unknown parts, add some pictures in an appropriate thread (or start a new one) and we can help.

 

David

[JUST O&R 237]

Thanks so much I have a few that I not sure what they are or what the numbers are.

[JUST O&R 237]

Trying to fine a screw its a 26-18 jet screw if anyone has one they would sell ?

I think that's the only thing I need to get the engine done thanks for any help.

[factory 483]

That is a standard part, a #10-32 fillister head screw with 1/2" thread length and a spring washer, the only ones I have are on carbs.

I do have some longer screws I bought for the base tanks from a car parts supplier in the UK, I would shorten one of these if I needed a carb screw, I imagine it would cost less to buy a pack of them in the US than it would be to ship one over and you would probably be able to find the correct length too.

 

David

[JUST O&R 237]

Thanks David I was thinking about doing that but I was hoping to find an oem screw.

I have a few more  boxes to look threw but I cant find one that's the rite size.

I would cut it off if it was to long. also all the screws in this motor are flat heads .

[factory 483]

This is the nearest I can find for sale in the UK, unfortunately it's a minimum order of 50.

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/fillister-screws/178874-SFI-10-32-1-2-A2-BL

Do you want me to see if I can find one on a parts engine? Could take me a while.

 

David

 

P.S. have you asked Wallfish or Webhead?

[Wallfish 687]

Are we talking about the screw on the older carb which is in place of the newer adjustment needle valve to hold the halves together?

If so, I can take a look around but it's probably easier to make a shorter one or paint one black.

https://www.mcmaster.com/fillister-head-machine-screws

You can probably find some more by searching the net.

https://www.grainger.com/category/fasteners/screws/machine-screws?attrs=Dia.%2FThread+Size|%2310-32&filters=attrs

Pan head style.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-32-Phillips-Pan-Head-Machine-Screws-Steel-w-Black-Oxide-SAE-Fine-Inch/122761523310?var=423185940513&hash=item1c9528306e:m:mfOVDzT8wTz20qM0IBtB89Q:sc:USPSFirstClass!01524!US!-1

[JUST O&R 237]

Thanks guys that may be the best way to go I have looked at the hardware most of the one they have are not even close.

 

Thanks for the help hope to have it running this weekend.

[CNew 403]

I looked through my misc hardware and I don’t have one of these screw either. I had one that was close but wasn’t a 10-32 (slightly larger).

[CNew 403]

Here’s the closest screw I have. It’s NOS part number 100116. The thread is 1/4-20 though...

[JUST O&R 237]

Thanks for looking I found a screw that will work for now rite size just the wrong head.

I will get the carb, on and make sure it runs . wallfish posted a few links for screws that are very close.

I have a grainger here in town I will try them today . the screw can be changed after the engine has been

put on. I won't have to take it apart last time I took it apart you know happened.

[K-TRON 24]

Very nice Comet C-SAW. I have one identical to yours. If you click my user name you should be able to find the thread I have on it on here. Mine is serial number 005495, which I believe was built in 1960. What is the serial number of the engine on yours? I have an 8-1/4" fine tooth 5/8" arbor blade on my C-SAW. It is about all that it can handle. I have tried more aggressive blades and the drive belt will slip. I really enjoy using this saw. I start mine every two to three weeks so that it doesnt loose its prime. If you need any dimensions or pictures just ask, mine is easily accessible.

 

Chris

Edited August 1, 2019 by K-TRON

[factory 483]

16 hours ago, Wallfish said:

Are we talking about the screw on the older carb which is in place of the newer adjustment needle valve to hold the halves together?

 

Yes it's for the early carb used on this C/Saw, I posted some pictures of the early carb & all the bits in the carb repair sticky thread (as the thread had no pictures of that carb).

I'm surprised he had the needle valve #18-12 & spring #21-20, as these were no longer available in the 1971 master parts list (probably discontinued years before but can't confirm as I haven't got any other lists).

The jet screw #26-18 (as O&R called it) was still available in 1971, but only direct from the factory.

 

5 hours ago, JUST O&R said:

Thanks for looking I found a screw that will work for now rite size just the wrong head.

Note: O&R had changed to using only Phillips head screws for the engines by Jan 1970 according to service bulletin SE-045.

 

David

[factory 483]

1 hour ago, K-TRON said:

Very nice Comet C-SAW. I have one identical to yours. If you click my user name you should be able to find the thread I have on it on here.

 

Here is a link to Chris's nice Comet C/Saw.

 

1 hour ago, K-TRON said:

I have an 8-1/4" fine tooth 5/8" arbor blade on my C-SAW. It is about all that it can handle. I have tried more aggressive blades and the drive belt will slip.

 

Just had a look through my saved pictures and found this one showing the type of blade originally supplied with the Comet C/Saw, is this more aggressive than the one you are currently using?

I'm also surprised that so many of these Comet Saws appear to have had very little use.

 

 

David

[K-TRON 24]

I am honestly shocked that this saw was fit with such an aggressive blade from the factory. I had tried a carbide tipped blade much like that and the belt continued to slip no matter how I adjusted the drive belt, and how slow I fed it wood. I suspect that the reason for this was due to the inherently wider cut made by the style of blade that I used. The teeth are very closely set on the blade I currently run, and it works well.

 

Chris

[Wallfish 687]

3 hours ago, factory said:

I'm also surprised that so many of these Comet Saws appear to have had very little use.

Because they don't work that great and the lack of power. Not to mention the carbs suck (except for gas and air) so I'm sure many people just gave up.  Certainly good for us collectors many years later!

I have a Homelite XL100 saw that will power through a 4x4 easily with an aggressive blade at full depth. Fun to use but it's heavy.

[factory 483]

10 hours ago, JUST O&R said:

Thanks for looking I found a screw that will work for now rite size just the wrong head.

I will get the carb, on and make sure it runs . wallfish posted a few links for screws that are very close.

I have a grainger here in town I will try them today . the screw can be changed after the engine has been

put on. I won't have to take it apart last time I took it apart you know happened.

 

Possible alternate screw is #26-93, listed as #10-32 x 1/2", need to find one to confirm.

 

I would suggest that if there is a minimum order of 50 or 100 #10-32 fillister head screws to buy some that are longer & cut them down, as they maybe more useful later on.

Some other common #10-32 screws used on these engines include: 9/16" thread length for tank mounting and gearbox covers screws with thread lengths of 1 1/8", 1 3/8" & 1 5/16".

 

David

[JUST O&R 237]

You all have this down pat.  welcome back k-tron have not been here long myself.  These guy's are great they find all the information you need.

Get you parts I was looking for carb kits next thing I know I have some great people hope they will need something that I can help with

by the way the ser # 007526 I think or very close its at the shop I will look in the am. I will look to see if I have a 26-93 screw. I would love  to get the parts 

in a computer. Would be much faster to just plug in the part number.  I have a lot of parts just need to dig in the boxes. One day !

 David you said you had a parts list is it on the forum ? I would love to have a copy to put all the number in quick books.

[JUST O&R 237]

Found  the screw you had mentioned the 26-93 looks to be a small bolt . I did run across a 100021 screw its a 10-32 just 2 inches long I will cut it off.

that will get this pat done 

mcsjby6h.bmp

[factory 483]

Ah, that is why I wanted to confirm it as the bulletin didn't say what type of screw/bolt it was.

I have found a slotted screw with a spring washer the correct length on a parts carb, the screw isn't black though, let me know if it's any use.

 

David

 

P.S. I have added some samples of the slotted head fillister screws to my order from Accu.co.uk, I won't get them till the 29th August as some of the parts are made to order.

Edited August 2, 2019 by factory