CNew 404 #1 Posted July 4, 2020 I’ve been wanting to dig into this one for awhile. Finally got it 97% disassembled. The main bearing on the blade pulley is a little raw. Would be best to replace it or at least get at it to put some bearing grease in there. I’m not sure how the roller spindle comes apart. There looks to be a clip holding the back of the shaft but it also seems like it may have some sort of taper fit like a crank shaft. Has anyone had one of these off before, any photos or tips? Someone has been inside this machine a few times. There were all sorts of make-shift gaskets and seals, horrible job. Worst part about the whole thing is the spark plug threads in the head are completely stripped out. I mean, how hard is it to thread in a spark plug? If you can’t do that then you should definitely NOT be operating a gas powered circular saw! The coil is also going to need some TLC, wires are all cracked and split. There was also a pretty terrible splice job on the power button. 1 pmackellow reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 698 #2 Posted July 4, 2020 Look for a hole in the saw body for a set screw. Twice the set screw stripped on me so never actually got the bearing out. If you do get the set screw out, look inside for another one in case it's doubled up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #3 Posted July 4, 2020 Hmmm, I’ll have to take another look for a set screw in that area. There was an adjustment screw on the side of the engine mount tab that looked to help adjust the belt tension or something but I didn’t see anything around the bearing/shaft area. I’ll take another look later this afteenoon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 698 #4 Posted July 4, 2020 Yes, that screw you know if is just that. The engine mounting holes on the case are slotted so the belt can be tightened with that screw. I can't remember if the set screw was on the top or the bottom but it was small too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #5 Posted July 4, 2020 No set screw on mine. Turns out it just had multiple cir-clip retainers. I was able to get the shaft and pulley removed along with the two bearings. Now the fun begins, trying to find new bearings... 1 pmackellow reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #6 Posted July 6, 2020 Just an example of the make-shift gaskets I’m running into... 1 Daren89 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 698 #7 Posted July 6, 2020 Gotta give'm an A for the effort. And an F for not using scissors to trim them. Looks like it might have worked for at least a little while. 1 Webhead reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #8 Posted July 6, 2020 Got the engine all rebuilt. I replaced all the seals and gaskets, including new exhaust gaskets. I also got all the wires on the coil fixed up. The spark is a little weak but at least it has spark! I was also able to locate some NOS bearings on eBay so I’ll just have to wait until they arrive to finish assembling the saw. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 698 #9 Posted July 7, 2020 37 minutes ago, CNew said: The spark is a little weak but at least it has spark! Did you try another condenser? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #10 Posted July 7, 2020 Not yet. It might also be the coil. It had a lot of cracks in the wires and I had to fix some bad splice jobs so it might be part of the problem too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUST O&R 237 #11 Posted July 7, 2020 On 7/4/2020 at 7:06 PM, CNew said: Now the fun begins, trying to find new bearings... The bearings were not hard to find I replaced them on mine they were a little dry too. looking good you have a new land speed record. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #12 Posted July 10, 2020 On 7/7/2020 at 9:56 AM, JUST O&R said: The bearings were not hard to find I replaced them on mine NOS bearings arrived this afternoon. I was hoping to finish putting the saw back together this weekend but these bearings aren’t the same. It’s odd because they’re the exact same part number. The new bearings are a lot wider than the originals. Rats... Just for reference these are GMN 6001 bearings made in Germany. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #13 Posted July 10, 2020 On 7/7/2020 at 9:56 AM, JUST O&R said: The bearings were not hard to find I replaced them on mine they were a little dry too. looking good you have a new land speed record. JustO&R, do you remember what brand and part number bearings you ended up using? I took some measurements and it looks like these should be fairly standard 28mm x 12mm x 8mm double shielded radial bearings. Think I’m going to look for some Koyo bearings in this size like the 6001ZZ/C3. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUST O&R 237 #14 Posted July 11, 2020 No I don't have the number on the one I used . But from past experience just because the bearing number is 6001 that doesn't mean all the measurements are all the same. been there done that before 1 CNew reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #15 Posted July 11, 2020 Metric bearings on an American tool, that seems a bit odd to me. David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #16 Posted July 11, 2020 Yeah, I’ve come across the metric bearings more than once on various things.The Champion uY6 is M10x1.0 as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #17 Posted July 11, 2020 The French have a lot to do with why almost all spark-plugs are Metric. https://web.archive.org/web/20120320135004/http://www.asecc.com/data/plughistory.html David 1 Wallfish reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #18 Posted July 11, 2020 That’s interesting, didn’t know that... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #19 Posted July 18, 2020 The Koyo bearings finally showed up today. Started getting the saw back together. Bearings fit great. Learning the hard way on this one, this tool has a special sequence to reassembly and if you forget anything like I did it’s next to impossible to get things in place once out of order. I’ve had to re-do several things.... time to step away until tomorrow Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #20 Posted July 18, 2020 Does anyone have a good photo for how the stop switch is supposed to be wired to the engine? I’m assuming one wire attaches to the post where the condenser and coil Wires attach. Does the other wire just attach to the closest recoil cover screw? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUST O&R 237 #21 Posted July 18, 2020 Here is a pic of mine it was on the recoil screw by the coil. well Ive got it off the shelf ill put the coil cover walfish sent me on . Well now that Ive got the rite coil cover on I think the kill wire needs to go to a lower screw . you would have fun putting it on the one buy the coil (thats were the cover screw is ) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUST O&R 237 #22 Posted July 18, 2020 Will is seems the wire is a little short to go to the bottom screw so just put it to the cover screw John or David will know for sure . John thanks again for the cover I let it set in the sun and rain for a month and it would not fad the paint. O well Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CNew 404 #23 Posted July 18, 2020 Excellent, thanks! Funny - I was almost going to leave my cover off because it looks so aged and worn compared to the engine. Almost doesn’t look like it was the original to the saw. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #24 Posted July 18, 2020 6 hours ago, JUST O&R said: Will is seems the wire is a little short to go to the bottom screw so just put it to the cover screw John or David will know for sure . John thanks again for the cover I let it set in the sun and rain for a month and it would not fad the paint. O well I'll have a look at mine to see where it goes. David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #25 Posted July 18, 2020 The stop switch ground wire goes to one of the screws for the starter housing/cover. The other wire goes to where the brass tab switch is normally fitted. David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
