Looking good, I see you always hide from the camera and put your stunt double in . Looks like it makes a huge difference, i guess the rotovator has three times as long to work the ground. did you stay in first gear?
So at long last the planters were delivered today, only had enough time to take them off the pallet and get a quick photo to show the drive wheel that turns the bit that drops the potatoes.
Regarding leaving as is or restoring there is no right answer, personally I like the fact it still has the Allen of Oxford transfers and some character
If it starts and runs ok could it be that the charging circuit has a fault?
I see the horn has found its way to the battery tray and the battery leads now run to the back of the tractor, is there a tray to fit on the tow hitch for the battery or something?
Looks like it may need a power input on the right hand side of the hopper. Maybe a land driven wheel.
Commercial ( full sized) machines are land wheel driven.
Great looking bit of kit.
Yes there is a wheel to drive it but its had a few parts removed to get it ready for shipping. Once I get it home I will post some pictures of the complete planter.
This will look well at the rally the theme being potatoes
A Ferguson Elf with planter,a Gutbrod 1032 with Rotavator,a Gutbrod 1032 with drill ploughs and an Anzani iron horse with a potato lifter and a ransome MG with a plough
Yes if all goes to plan we will see you there George. I am sure I can fab up some brackets to make it fit even if they are not quite to the original design.
Has anyone got any pictures or information on how to attach the potato or veg planters to a Gutbrod?
I have just bought a potato planter but I am not sure how to connect it up. The planter isnt home yet but should be in about a weeks time.
I know you use the standard tool frame like this (without the grubber)
And there are brackets which I dont have
The center bracket looks like it will couple the planter to the tool frame but I am not sure what the other two are. I was thinking lift arm extensions but I think the planter will be heavy hanging that far behind the tractor.
I thought I had replied to you both, my tapatalk must have mucked up.
I've looked at CV boots etc online none seem the right size, I need to find a local supplier who will let me have a good root round his stock. I will most likely end up making one from leather if mine splits and I can`t find one, fingers crossed I can save it.
I was also looking at boy racer silicon hoses for intercoolers etc as I think some of these can be quite large in diameter and may be suitable. I also wonder if you don't get actual UJ covers for propshafts etc, it may be worth speaking to a driveshaft company.
@The Fife Plooman: I managed to get the rotavator working as it should after reading your post a while back, I gave the rear PTO pin a smack and it all started behaving Sorry I must have forgotten to thank you
My plan at the moment is to get the gator out the way sufficiently to split the UJ, not sure exactly how I'm going to achieve that yet as I usually use a vice, but I think its probably the easiest solution as the UJs are hopefully a standard off the shelf item. That way I can get the tractor mobile and use it while also getting better access to the PTO pins.
I think a slide hammer might be the answer to removing the PTO pins and it gives me another opportunity to buy another tool!
Yes shock rather than a steady load is normally much better at freeing things up.
Another thing that may be worth trying is pumping grease into the drain hole in the bottom of the pto sleeve. I don't know if it is threaded or not but it wouldn't take long to run a tap into it. You could spray a lot of release spray in first then put a nipple in and pump it with grease. I am suggesting this as I think even once you have the retaining pins removed it may still be stuck solid and the internal grease pressure may just help a little in pushing the retaining pins up at the same time as freeing the pto sleeve
GAV hows your rotavator restoration coming along?
Ive been busy with other things of late so its still sitting in the back of the shed awaiting restoration. I did just last week buy another one which I hope to be in usable condition.
Been a long while, but I'm still struggling to free the rotovator.
I've welded a nut on to the top of the PTO pin and still can't remove it!
Does anyone know where I could buy a relacement gator like the one in the above diagram? I fear I'm going to have to cut it off.
Thanks
Jon
Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
I haven't looked into a replacement gaitor for mine yet but I will have to soon as I need 2 of them. I was going to try looking at things like CV boots or steering rack boots.
I think i read somewhere that vinegar refreshes and softens old rubber boots, might be worth a try
I cant find a replacement so it looks like it will have to be repaired.
I think my initial thought that rust swelling had cracked it was wrong. it turns out that the shaft and gear that fit into the coupler are an interference (extremely tight) fit as the sides of the male splines are square and don't tapper to suit the coupler. I think I will alter the shafts to make them a 'close' fit and use some Loctite 628 or similar to hold it in place. This will hopefully prevent it from cracking again.
For dressing the OD I have a few options, the oil seal that was fitted had a 30mm bore but I can get one with the same OD and a 31mm bore so if I have a bit turned off the coupler and use the bigger oil seal I can have a sleeve made with a larger wall thickness and press it on. That's the theory anyway
Its not too clear but this is each end of the shaft, one edge with chamfers the other without
The rotovator seals are standard metric ones with a double lip, I was going to order mine from simply bearings when I buy the bearings for it. Its the splined coupler that I am still trying to find a replacement for.
I can send you diagrams tonight, there all in German but the pictures and technical descriptions are easily understood.
Yes they were built solid, a proper tractor rather than a garden tractor
As for photos of the rotovator the external bracket that you have the sheared bolts in is partially missing with the bit I do have being welded direct to the shaft (again were you have the sheared bolts) so I need to sort all that out.
As for welding the retaining pins to free them up, I was just a bit concerned that there may be seals and a spring in there that may not survive the temperature
Tell me about it, I took a chance and bought it unseen knowing that it had stood for 10 years unused and now couldn't be turned by hand, but I did expect there to be at least a trace of oil left in it
The pins with the black knob for holding the pto shafts lifts and turns about 180 degrees, i would try to free these off without heat if possible as I am not sure what damage could be done. I wonder if the PTO sleeve could be unbolted from the rear of the tractor without disturbing any seals or bearings so that you could get everything onto a bench to work on it
Hopefully something has just come apart inside the rear end of the tractor causing the PTO not to engage, I guess there will only be one way to find out
For the sheared screws i have had great success welding on a washer the a nut, as you say the heat helps break the bond.
If you post a pic of the hub on the rear wheel i will tell you if they are reduction hubs or not.
gutbrod with new rotovator hard at work
in Ride On's
Posted
Looking good, I see you always hide from the camera and put your stunt double in
. Looks like it makes a huge difference, i guess the rotovator has three times as long to work the ground. did you stay in first gear?
Cheers
John
Oh How did the locking bracket turn out?