Fishnuts2

Yes, that can be repaired. Did the little hook on the end break?
I'm so glad the rivet wasn't drilled off because that's what many do believing it retains the spool.
 
Spring--
The broken end of the spring can be re-shaped. Heat the end of it until it's cherry red. That will remove the brittle "spring" characteristics of the steel and allow it to be bent without breaking it. I will get you a pic of what that bend looks like and it's fairly easy using small needle nose pliers.
For best results and smooth operation after repairs the spring should be completely removed from the housing and cleaned by soaking and or wiping the old grease/oil off. Also clean the inside of the housing. Recoiling the spring and getting it back into the housing isn't fun or always easy. It can be recoiled right back into the housing or do the coil first and insert it back into the housing. If doing a bunch of them a retainer can be made from 2" pipe which makes installation much easier.
 
Rope
Yes it's retained in the spool with the wire. Remove that old wire and find a short piece of wire about the same size to use. I have used a copper strand from electrical wire because it's soft enough to manipulate to get the ends into those tiny holes. Basically untwist just a single strand of the wire off of the larger twisted wire but anything you can get in there should work. I'll post a pic of what the NOS repair wire looks like before it's inserted into the spool.
Once you get that small loop of wire inside the spool you will need to poke the end of the rope through it and pull it through.
First, Cut the end of the rope so it has a nice clean edge. Use a cigarette lighter or a match to heat that edge of the rope in order to seal it and keep it from fraying. It will melt and do just a little bit at a time. Just enough to melt the edges of the fibers.  Once you melt the edge quickly twist it in your fingers to keep that hardened edge the same or smaller size than the diameter of the rope. Too much melted and it will be too big to fit. This is important for trying to get the edge of the rope through that little loop of the wire. I use a small pick tool to push it and pick it from the opposite side to pull it through. Once you get the rope through the wire loop pull it through enough so you can now heat the edge of the rope again. This time melt the edge of the rope so it creates a hardened edge that's bigger than the diameter of the rope. This hardened bulge on the end of the rope will prevent it from ever pulling through the retaining wire once that wire is cinched down.
Now pull the retaining wire tails so the loop is just snug to the rope. Then pull the rope back through so that little bulge you created is almost snug to the retaining wire loop.
Using pliers pull and twist the 2 tails of that retaining wire to lock the rope to the spool. Be careful not to twist too tight and break that wire or you need to start all over, but it does need to be tight to hold the rope so it has no movement at all. It's a very fine line between breaking the wire and having tight enough. Best to go 1/2 twist at a time once it's close to being tight.
Once it's twisted tight and the rope is locked to the spool, cut the twisted wire tail off. Leave about 1/8 inch long of twisted wire  Then bend over that twisted tail so it fits down below the indent of the spool. Bend it to the right and the opposite way it is shown bent over in your pic but I'm not sure it makes a difference. That's how the originals are done so I just follow that.
Wind the rope onto the spool. You will need to cut the knot off that retains the handle and heat the end just like before to stop the fray of fibers but keep it small enough to fit back through the handle hole. ( There should be a spring inside that type of handle) Just a hole in the newer ball type
Feed the end of the rope, after it's spooled up, through one of the openings in the spool with about 3 inches or so protruding out. This will allow the spool to be installed without interfering with the edge of the housing,
Insert the spool over the bearing and back into the housing. That little slot on the bottom of the spool must catch the spring and that's why it's important to have that spring bent and properly positioned. It should look just like your pic but it must have the bend in it to catch the spool. There can not be any other part of the spring touching or protruding out from the bearing which would prevent the spool from sliding all the way down and the slot catching the spring.
Once the spool is down in place and caught on the spring, use that tail of the rope that's protruding up to spin the spool counter clockwise. Usually it's about 3-4 revolutions to create enough spring tension on it to recoil. Hold the tension on the spool with your thumb when the rope tail is at the top and at the location it goes through the housing and up to the handle stop. Now feed the tail of the rope back through the spool edge and out to the front of the housing. Grab it and feed the rope up through the hole in the handle stop. This is a good time to test the action of the recoil and verify everything is working properly but hold that rope tight. Pull and release the rope quite a few times to get that spring to settle in it's proper place. It should pull and retract with ease and have enough tension that it recoils all the way in. Once you are happy with the performance, tie a loose quick release knot about 6-8 inches down on the rope. This will prevent it from spooling back in while you work on the handle. Send the rope end through the little spacer first, then through the handle and then through the handle spring if there is one. One end of the spring is smaller than the other so that end is the top where the knot will hold and retain the handle.
That's all there is to it!  Definitely not the easiest thing for the first time doing it
 
This may be a good opportunity and time to make a completely new Recoil Repair Tutorial thread for others to follow as well. It's something I've been meaning to do for a while now. I'll get some stuff together and do one with pics and maybe some video to help explain things. These are NOT that fun to work with and it's one of my least favorite things to work on as they can be frustrating when starting out and doing one for the first time. Much of what was written is is easier said than done and it's a learning curve for sure. They do get much easier to do the more that are done but most people don't have a large collection and just need one or two done. Just don't smash it with a hammer under the frustration! LOL
 
NOS recoil spring bend for center. Notice the tail curves a little. That's to keep it inside the indent of the center bearing
 

 
 
That's how they come NOS, in that retainer which makes them fairly easy to install. They can be done without the retainer as well.. but use your thumb to control the unwind speed so it's slow
Here's a retainer made from 2 inch pipe
 

I have many carburetor kits for ohlsson &Rice on eBay user name meatballbutch 

Post some pics of the tank
Carb cleaner,  Brake clean Lacquer thinner etc soaking in the bottom of the tank as it could just be the screen filter is clogged from the old gas gum. Swish around every once it a while.
Small wire into the tube if that's clogged too but don't bury it as there is a very delicate screen filter on the end. If you can get any flow then I use a bulb type thingy to force wash the cleaner back and forth through it until it clears out.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275523737691?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&customid=7c4ac16ac1301d9eea8ea4785ac465eb

Yes I was guessing kill switch (or what's left of it)
 
Unit now treated to new cowling decal and its on the shelf with its mates, with appropriate literature...
 
 

A new addition to the O&R collection arrived today, a Drillgine drill
Quite tidy and will soon join its colleagues in the shed...
 
 

Proud new owner of the Irvington Mini Winch. My plan was to get it all ready before posting but couldn’t wait. The previous owner was super awesome and reached out to me before parting with it. I of course was very interested and hope to make this a centerpiece in the collection.  Another BIG thank you to the owner for keeping this here in the O&R family!
 
I’m itching to clean it up and display it but I have been thwarted by too many business trips and landscaping lately. I hope things will slow down a little soon so I can get back to this.  I need to add an air cleaner and swap out the tank clamp.
 

Add some oil to get about 32:1 but don't use outboard oil. It's different than air cooled oil. Something with the ash and ashless and etc. Always best to run heavier on oil than lean. Haven't fouled a plug yet at 32:1 so...
Even at 32:1 you have 1/2 the amount of oil. 50:1 is way to lean on oil for these IMO. It might work but you should know if it doesn't by the bottom of the first tank full.
Best to give it a rip and get it all running BEFORE paint. You may need to remove the cover a couple times and noth'n suck worse than scratching up new paint. $0.02

You can always make one there not to hard to make one of this was made 

Didn't have time to really set up the display so they ended up scattered on the trailer. There was still a couple left in the van.
 

SUCCESS...!!
 
Another TT300 comes back to life. Wallfish, without you this would have been just another one of those non-running display models. I cannot thank you enough...

Just had a really nice visit with an engineer buddy of mine from MN and he dropped off the 3D printed vent for the Little Wonder Trimmer. This is awesome!

I found an old O&R Kenco Model 61 M pump today on a local Craigslist posting.  Just got it home. This thing has had a hard life and has either been dropped or had something heavy fall on it.  Unfortunately the starter rope guide has been broken off and the side of the front cover and engine cooling fins are crushed a bit. It’s missing the air cleaner and the tank is beat up. I think it’s still a pretty cool unit and I’m looking forward to giving it a good bath.  In the last photo I spent maybe 10 minutes trying to wipe off some of the heavy caked on grease and grime just so I could bring it into the house. I’ll do a proper clean up job here some day.

Found some smaller lights and put on the dual light set up. Looks more "factory" with them
 

 

That fixed it. thank you. Now it's alive!   First time it has ran in 50 years.
 

Outboard oil should never be used for lawn equipment or other 2 strokes as the oil is made differently.
Yes, you can use 2 stroke oil, just don't use outboard oil.
 

Looks to me that they tried to make the old carb more modern and added a diaphragm fuel pump.  I'd say that line coming out by the motor mount would be the pulse port for the pump, and the other line feeding fuel from the tank.

Flip the petal over.  I've pulled on the starter cord too many times to no avail, on an engine with a broken or leaky reed valve.  I'm a little smarter now!

Tried to add this to the sticky at the top, but somebody has it locked. It' for sale on eBay right now.

Took a break on this for a little while to fix the ignition on a Tecumseh powered Blue Star welder.
 
So I was able to cut the carb spring shape from the spring steel material. Edges were sightly rough but a little filing took care of that. I reassembled the carb with the new spring and reproduction carb diaphragm and check valve. It fired right up after priming the lines with fuel using a little air pressure! Only adjustments I've made is the mixture screw to get the rpms right for the correct voltage.
 
Calling this one done for now I guess. Might need to keep an eye out for another OR tool to rebuild!

Finally got the saw back together. That took way too long. It’s been busy but it feels good to finish this project. I may tackle the Chug-a-Drill next...
 

Its arrived !! 
 
The unit fits on the engine, just need to modify the base plate so it all drops on nicely...
 
 
 
 

Courtesy of Webhead

Photobucket hijacked everyone's stuff so here the video (referenced above) of the drill in action
 

This may have been posted but I didn’t seen it. Here’s some info on the O&R Warn winch.
https://www.warn.com/throwback-thursday-the-warn-800g-gasoline-winch

I still need to finish putting the cutoff saw back together.  My break from the saw has been prolonged and I’ve been fixing up a vintage Raleigh Twenty 20” folding bicycle.  Picked up this cool O&R Keene pump from a local guy that does gold prospecting as a hobby.