Rayp

Thank you all once again - I would be lost without your help and advice!  I  had forgotten I do have an axle from an old Osprey and will have a look at it in the faint hope that any of the parts are usable.  I can see the removeable link now that Richard has pointed it out - the Sun must have been in my eyes when I took the photo!

Having spent some time getting the engine to start easily, I found that I had poor drive to the wheels and suspected the clutch needed adjusting as the 'wheel drive belt' seemed OK.  I  removed the wheel, hub and chainguard and after removing the Hub (photo2) I found what appeared to be two worn grinder disks (photo 1) which are not shown in the Spare Parts Book. I am wondering if these should be there or whether they are the result of a 'cowboy fix' in the past.

I addition the Drive Chain is filthy and I need to remove it and clean it but cannot see a revvable link or how otherwise to remove and refit it.

Any help would be most appreciated. 

Excellent work as usual Richard.  Its made me think what I can use my similar sliding lid winebox for!

The screw arrived and is fitted.  I  did try to measure the thread, without success and then saw the accompanying note.

Thanks for searching your stock and for your kind offer Richard.  Having looked at the Link you sent and upon reflection I thought it would be preferable to install 6 new ball bearings so I ordered 10.

No Richard , you didn't misunderstand, when I started the topic I had searched without success for a screw in the UK and was still looking for one.  As it happened, the first reply to the Topic was from Wristpin who said that there was one such screw available at Adamsons. When I learnt that Adamsons had one and only one I immediately ordered it and am awaiting delivery.  I am anxious to get a screw because I need to mow a paddock before the grass gets too long. I will revisit my Vernier and check my measurement, but I would still like a sixth ball bearing if you do locate one.

Regards.

Firstly, thankyou Wristpin for directing me to the one in stock which I have ordered.  As regards the ball bearings the Manual is silent so Richard may be right in that it's pot luck how many each engine has. I didn't remove the clutch cover, it just fell off and whilst I do not believe I lost a bearing I cannot be absolutely sure.  However I will be closely following Richard's advice in the LINK he gave as regards cleaning and reassembly of the clutch.

Turning to Richard's post, I realise I should have said that my engine is a vertical shaft.  His photo clearly shows how the Horizontal shaft differs from the vertical shaft in this respect.

When the screw arrives I will be able to measure it and I may then find that it is something that is available from a hardware stockist, although I am hoping the new screw will not 'disappear' like the old one, because I will be applying Loctite to it when I install it!

Despite investing in a good second-hand Rabone Chesterman  dial Vernier, I am still not very practiced in its use and when I measured one of the  bearings I got it to 312 thousands of an inch which seems somewhat short of 3/8 of an inch so perhaps my bearings are considerably worn (or my measurement is useless!).

Can anyone help me please with the dimensions of the above part or, even better supply me with the part.  It is a shoulder screw (about an inch long) which holds the pivot for the Governor lever link.  I haven't been able to locate one in the UK and whilst they are available in America the postage is astronomical (for a single screw).

Also the starter rewind assembly seems to have space for 6 ball bearings but there are only five.  Do I need six?

I forgot to state my engine number which is 130902 0228-01 75091910

Thank you for the advice to check the sprocket as well.

Thanks for your reply Headexam.  I have cleaned the clutch and replaced it but not tried it. I will give it a try and if the problem is still there I will have another look at the spacing with a view to replacing the parts you suggest.

Thank you all for your advice and suggestions.  I now know how to remove the clutch and hopefully a good clean will solve the problem.

I have a Skilshop chainsaw model 1712 -Type 3 (see photo 1) and although the engine runs the chain does not cut well and slows down during use.  I previously asked HeadExam for advice and he suggested it might be either the sprocket in the guidebar or the clutch.

The guidebar sprocket moves freely so I think the problem may be the clutch.

Having removed the cover I am stuck as I do not know how to remove the clutch for inspection.  As can be seen in photo 2 there is a very thin hexagon nut on the clutch with a directional arrow and I do not know whether this unscrews or the clutch needs to be removed with a puller.

Can anyone help please?

It just reinforces the view that everything is now about money and the way of the world is why sell a rubber bush when you can sell a whole new bracket!

Hi Richard - It looks really well made and I'm sure it will be better than new when you've worked your magic.

I wish I had known earlier - I've recently bought a second hand one from the USA!

Thank you all for your replies.  Yes I do mean the clamps that hold the battery like the ones shown in the image that Richard posted. My battery tray also has a 'strap' at one end but one of the threaded fixings has disintegrated (on hindsight I should have tried to replace it before painting and reassembly!!!).  I will try Halfords, as suggested, but may take you up on your Kind offer Richard if I have no joy.

Does anyone have some spare battery clamps - for some reason those on my tractor are missing.  There are several for sale from America, but the postage is exorbitant!

Thanks again Richard

Can someone please tell me what the points gap should be on a Hayter twenty one with a Briggs & Stratton engine.  I have various B & S Manuals, but the points gap is conspicuous by its absence.

Does anyone have a spare back plate for a Kohler K341?

Hello Richard,

Thanks for the information which is very informative as usual.  I see the depth for mine is 1/2".

I am replacing the oil seal on the Flywheel side of my Tractor engine but do no know how far in the oil seal should be.  The old seal was very near to the bearing but it may be that the last person to replace a seal pushed it in too far.  At the moment the new seal is flush with the Back plate, but I thought I would ask for the experts' opinion as to whether it should be farther in or not.

Thanks Richard - you are a mine of information and told me more than I already knew about my Deck.  My Tractor (and I assume the deck) were made in Belgium and were 0wned from new by a family in Nottingham, from whom I acquired them.  You also are right about the wheels.  I couldn't find any suitable wheels so I sent for them from the USA and they certainly are robust so should last. 

Prompted by Richard's excellent posting I thought I would post the work on my deck.  After sandblasting/wire-brushing and welding repairs the top was zinc-primed. The underside was Metal-prepped

then treated with two coats of POR.  I was unable to source small quantities of stainless steel flange bolts so purchased the nearest metric equivalent.  This meant the spacers required drilling-out, but when I tried the first one shattered. A friend then kindly made me some metric replacement spacers. All the remaining bolts were replaced with stainless steel and a new Bar Idler Bushing Spacer fitted.  I'm afraid I'll never achieve Richard's high standard, but I'm confident that the Deck will not corrode before me.

Thank you all for your replies.  I emailed Meetens, but to date have had no response.  Subsequently I emailed Mike Hitchins and he replied the following day asking me whether I wanted chrome or cast iron piston rings. What's the difference, apart from price?