I was with BT for some time and found great difficult in speaking to a human. In addition whenever (very frequently!) they increased their prices, I too was able to nbegotiate substantial reductions only to be faced with further increases within months.
Prior to Bt I was with Talk Talk and they were HORRENDOUS!
I am now with John Lewis and have found their service (provided by PlusNet) exceptionally good. Calls are answered quickly by persons who speak good English and understand the issues without passing the buck. Any call; is immediately followed up with an email to ensure that it has been resolved to your satisfaction. John Lewis prices are competitive and they don't offer the myriad of options which you could get from PlusNet. They are also reputed to be the last among providers) to increase prices.
Just to let you know I followed all your advice regrinding both valves, decoking the head, replacing the plug, diaphragm and gaskets. The mower now starts easily and as soon as the new belt and blades arrive I hope to put it to work.
My brother is looking for a rotovator in good working order (most of those on EBay are huge distances away making it difficult to view before bidding) about the size of a 350 or 300. A smaller Clifford would also do, but he does not want anything bigger or a non-wheeled type such as a Merry Tiller.
Thanks Colin. I'll try and adopt your practice in the future as its not the first time I've relied on a manual only to find it is not very helpful. I've located the springs and wire as per the above photo but still need to fiddle as the smaller spring doesn't seem to be doing anything.
My Hayter 21 is very difficult to start. It has good compression and a good spark, but when it does run it performs a little 'lumpy' and the exhaust fumes are somewhat 'sooty'. I am currently cleaning the fuel tank and carburettor, but can any one suggest any other possible causes for its difficult starting. Also can anyone tel;l me where to buy Briggs & Stratton red engine paint or a near equivalent (preferably in a spray can).
Can anyone help with a diagram of the lift linkage, i.e. into which holes in the Lift Arm and Bell End the Lift Arm should fit and does anyone know a supplier for the bushes which fit into the chassis at the ends of moving spindles. I tried to upload some pictures, but the upload failed and I will have to try and find out why.
Having removed the front wheel bearings and given them an initial soak in petrol I found that I either had 2 sealed bearings and 2 unsealed bearings (PLEASE SEE ATTACHED PHOTOS) or that the seals had disappeared from the 2 ‘unsealed’ bearings and I hope I have not damaged the sealed bearings by the petrol immersion. 3 of the bearings turn smoothly and quietly whereas the fourth turns not so smoothly with a slight grinding noise and I assume this bearing needs replacement. The ‘sealed’ bearings are marked as made in the USA and I assume that I will not be able to re-pack them. Yours advice would again be most appreciated.
Thank you for your reply and offer of help - I always seem to in your debt, because you are so knowledgeable and helpful. I have a C 160 Automatic (with a 36" rear discharge mowing deck) which I am slowly rebuilding (hopefully correctly!). My Tractor has the 'C' clip retainers on the front axles and if you are able to spare some shims I would be most grateful and happy to reimburse you.
Does anyone know where to buy .050" thick and .015" thin shim washers to fit the front wheel 3/4" axles on Wheelhorse tractors? There are many suppliers, but they all have minimum quantities of 100!
The illustration in the Parts Manual is far from clear and I am struggling to see which way round the cam plate should be, which screw holes to use to fix it and the small spring and whether either or both of the 'spacers' (shown on the attached photo) belong. Any help would be most appreciated
Kohler engine spares
in Ride On's
Posted
Thank you for the Link Richard I'll try Meetens. The parts are for my K341S.