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CNew

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Posts posted by CNew
 
 

  1. Cool, glad to see you’re back in action! That 400 is going to be really nice. I may have to try your cleaning ideas since I do most of my rebuilds in a spare room inside the house.

    I have a few cans of Seafoam, I’ll have to try that for cleaning...

     


  2. Finally starting to ease into this project. Still collecting a few parts for how I want to set it up. This tan camo paint is a real pain. I spent quite a bit of time painstakingly scraping the paint off the rubber tiller handle. I think it turned out better than I expected. Once I got most of the paint scraped I hit it with some Maguire micro ultra cut polish (I know it’s not intended for rubber but it helped) then I washed it and put a couple drops of mineral oil on it and then buffed it with a rag. Not perfect but much improved.

    BAE39F57-F3C1-4F99-BDBE-D331A15C7176.jpeg

     

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  3. Ha, I know!

     

    I’ve started working on my Derby Tiller but it’s been a little slow. One of the sections of tines has really rusted itself on and I’ve been soaking it daily with Kroil.  I’m hoping it’ll break free here in one of these days. I don’t want to tear into the rest of it until I can get the lower end cleaned up. I think this tiller is going to be one of those you just slowly pick away at while you work on other stuff.

     

    I’m also slowly easing into working on the Clinton K150 outboard with the O&R 20A. That one is also going to be a lot of work because a previous owner painted the whole thing in tan camo for a duck hunting boat.  

     

    I think the Cutoff saw will be my next “quick” project when it gets here.


  4. Yes, it looks like both tubes have a rubber grommet as they enter the tank. I’m guessing they might be a similar style to the donut grommet for governor vane on the 13A and B engines but I would need to check a parts list to confirm.

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  5. On 8/23/2016 at 2:38 PM, factory said:

     

    k1e.jpg

     

     

    I wonder if this earlier style cover and recoil would bolt up to a standard 20A?  If so, and if anyone has an extra or junker cover and recoil assembly like this one I might be interested in it, just PM me.  It doesn’t need to be pretty or have the decal either.


  6. Huh, interesting.  Thanks for all the research. Well I already ordered the O-rings so I’ll have plenty and they should work ok, it’s not like I really use these engines/tools much more than firing them up to enjoy them or show’em off...


  7. Ok, figured it out. I was able to pull the oil seal (probably can’t reuse it now) and sure enough there was a clip holding the shaft next to the bearing. Also, Wallfish you were right, the pressure release valve does have to come off first. There’s just barely not enough room leaving it in. I finally got a 7/16 deep socket that fit the narrow hole in the housing. Piece of cake after that and removing the clip...

    3A0D9B41-D2A2-4234-87F4-97DB2A6B0867.jpeg

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  8. There is an oil seal on the shaft you pointed out. I haven’t removed it yet, didn’t want to damage it.  Looks like I’ll probably need to pry that seal out and see if there is some sort of bushing or something that is holding the engine in.

     

    The pressure release thingy looks like it has room to clear the hole and housing without removing it first. There really isn’t any way to access it anyway without the engine being completely out.

     

    Definitely puzzling...


  9. Ok, I’m stumped... I’m trying to remove a 20A engine from an old chainsaw and I feel like I’ve removed everything that keeps the engine situated in the frame/tank case. I can’t get the engine to budge at all. It looks like it should just slide out but it doesn’t so much as wiggle even with some gentle persuasion taps on the shaft from the opposite side. What am I missing?

    42D0C5E2-9411-42B5-8485-0DC2CA63601E.jpeg

    3AA86B0B-389E-433E-AC04-BDD913649894.jpeg

    272975AE-8144-40AF-A195-71F3B230E3B7.jpeg

 
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