Did some investigating today in search of a replacement kill switch for one that is broken on one of my O&R tools. I thought this might be helpful if anyone else is in need of a similar replacement.
The little red push button switch looks to be identical to the Switchcraft 951 from Switchcraft. They have a model “A”, “B”, and “C” and I think it is the “A” version. I have one on order and will confirm once I receive it.
This photo is of a good working order switch on a Drillgine.
Very Nice! I almost purchased those off eBay - glad you got them, especially since you have both tools in your collection! Nice examples of the tools by the way.
I think there is another similar brochure listed on eBay right now in case you haven’t seen it.
Very true, good catch David - graphite and aluminum probably wouldn’t get along all that well. I have seen the Klinersil material before, that might be a great option.
Thanks David - that was going to be my guess but it seemed like a little bit of an unusual place for a gasket. I guess it would help dampen the vibration.
I’m about to cut two new gaskets for the gearbox on the Drillgine so we will see how that goes. I’ve got a new punch set to try out.
I recently purchased some gaskets that look to have come from a similar kit that you have pictured here and I’m curious what the two rectangular gaskets are for?
Clint
By the way I think Eric already has the file for cutting the exhaust collector gaskets. We just need to figure out what material to use and source some. I haven’t done any research on this gasket material yet but it appears to be some sort of dense rubber with fiber reinforcement and it needs to withstand some hot temperatures.
Thanks John! I’ve always been a fan of Lubriplate, been using it since I can remember helping my dad work on cars as a kid. I also really like Kano Kroil, stuff works wonders. I’ll have to check out the Corn Head grease, hadn’t heard of that one.
Thank you for researching through all your info. The Bridges reference is great to know, that’s much less oil than it would take to fill the gearbox chambers so that helps me think the amount needed is just enough to keep things generally lubed. When I cleaned everything this afternoon the only trace of remaining oil had all dried up and if I had to guess may have been about a teaspoon worth all said and done for what I probably scraped out. My drill is like the one in your second photo with the two fill holes.
The Bridges drill gearbox uses oil, with top-ups every ten hours of use, I imagine the Drillgine will too.
David
Making some good progress on the Drillgine. Finally got the gearbox completely apart and everything cleaned (that was a chore and I’m a bit OCD when it comes to cleaning). I’ll be making some new gaskets as I put it back together.
Back to the oil question- should I used a high viscosity gear oil like 90 or a standard 30 motor oil. I’m also using some Lubriplate along the way as I reassemble the gearboxes. Since there is an oil fill hole on each side of the drill is there a recommended procedure for adding the oil? Do you tilt the drill on its side and open the top plug and the bottom plug and add oil into the top plug hole until it runs out the bottom hole? I’m guessing the gearbox doesn’t need to be totally full of oil but I really have no idea.
This is great information, you never cease to amaze me the amount of info you have on these engines! I’ll take a closer look at everything on the engine and double check that things are set up correctly with the Governor.
I’ll see if I can get a video this weekend. I have now adjusted the Governor spring mechanism to the lowest setting and I also turned in the main adjusting screw some so I’ll see if that will even things out a bit. I’ve seen a couple videos of Orline chainsaws where they seem to have a nice low idle and triggers throttle response (like the Ford O&R chainsaw video on YouTube). I guess that’s kind of what I was thinking/aiming to achieve.
Great advice. I think I have the gasket materials covered but seals are a bit more challenging, except for the once where an o-ring will work. After looking at the drill a bit more I may not take the engine completely apart. The gear boxes aren’t an issue. I’m still trying to build up a stash of parts and unfortunately shaft seals don’t seem to come up very often so I’ll probably need to be fairly selective and cautious on which engines I end up going through completely.
Speaking of idling, for a standard engine with no throttle control do these engines typically race at full rpm? I started one up the other day and it didn’t seem to want to idle, rather it seemed to rev at very very high rpm. I’m still learning about 2 strokes and how to tune them.
Hopefully next time I won’t need to go to this extreme. I’m not sure why it was being so stubborn. It wasn’t rusted or anything either. I have a hex socket that chucked nicely and then I used the impact wrench, worked pretty well actually.
Great suggestions. I just verified there is no screw in the center base of the jaws. I attempted the idea of chucking a hex and then hitting that and unfortunately that didn’t work either. This thing is being quite stubborn. Feels like if I hit it any harder I could jam something up in the gear box or in the engine. I may have to try the impact wrench idea next.
Just to clarify, when it states to hit it in the counter clockwise direction I’m understanding that to mean CCW looking straight at the chuck, as David showed in his arrow picture, and not looking at it from the rear of the drill? CCW looking straight at the chuck would be the “Forward” direction for drilling.
Ohlsson & Rice: Kill Switch for Drillgine and other Tools
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted · Edited by CNew
Auto fill was wrong
Did some investigating today in search of a replacement kill switch for one that is broken on one of my O&R tools. I thought this might be helpful if anyone else is in need of a similar replacement.
The little red push button switch looks to be identical to the Switchcraft 951 from Switchcraft. They have a model “A”, “B”, and “C” and I think it is the “A” version. I have one on order and will confirm once I receive it.
This photo is of a good working order switch on a Drillgine.
Clint