Yes, very strange. I can’t believe anyone would pay that amount for just an engine, even if it was mint condition. When I look at the photos closely it looks like the engine has been cleaned up very nicely and perhaps has low hours of run time but it also looks like someone may have painted it again and added reproduction decals. I’m not convinced it’s “all original”.
Curious, I’ve been watching (not bidding) this eBay listing and I’m baffled why this particular engine is in such high demand. I don’t see anything unique about it vs other similar new ones I’ve seen come up for sale and stay well below $200. The ends of the gas tank look a little bit different but everything else seem so pretty standard. Is this an ultra rare model or something?
Thanks John - I’ll have a closer look at the ball valve and see if maybe the ball is worn or getting stuck. I used a new lever during the last rebuild so hopefully it’s engaging properly.
That foam is nasty! I just removed a similar mss from one of my air cleaners.
Your post on the trimmer inspired me again and I was finally able to get my Orline trimmer running this weekend. I ended up having to swap carburetor diaphragm assemblies even though I rebuilt the original one that was on it twice. I’m going to have to open it up the diaphragm again and see what’s going on in there and causing it to malfunction. I know I put it back together correctly but it just doesn’t pump.
Got it all back together and it seems to be working correctly, at least no broken springs yet.
Thanks again David for all your help!
David,
I should have waited just a bit longer, your step by step pictures would have r ally simplified things. I think I more or less did your sequence. I attempted the paper thing and found I didn’t really need it. I’m sure I’ll have to take this or another 13B apart again so this procedure you’ve documented will be perfect!
I’m still tinkering with this 13B starter recoil. The 20A instructions are helpful but also a little confusing but I think I’ll figure it out. I’m thinking a couple of the steps don’t really apply since the rope spool is different and the way it all mounts to the blower cowl is different as well. Hopefully I don’t get the spring wrong and break it...
Finally getting back to this 13B recoil spring. I’ve gotten as far as getting the spring wound and secured inside the housing. Next step will be to replace the pull rope since someone used an incorrect diameter rope and length. Then I’ll attempt the CCW spring winding and install procedure that David so kindly referenced in the 20A service manual.
Wow - that’s impressive! I’d never heard of that trick before. I’ve seen 0000 steel wool but never aluminum foil. I know what I’m going to try on my next handle clean up job
I was on business travel yesterday and today and just missed out on a Petro Products Chug-A-Drill on eBay that ended up going for a total of $193. I hope someone on here was able to grab it.
You guys are awesome- thank you for the suggestions and photos, this is really helpful. I was thinking this might be how it should be put together. I’m going to make another short wire with a terminal end that connects to the points post and then either pigtail the wire ends with a wire nut or maybe I’ll add a small male/female bullet connector to each end for a clean connection.
I’m finally getting to work on an O&R Sears Utility Lightweight chainsaw that I got quite awhile back and it looks like at some point someone hacked the wiring for the Start/Stop switch and I could use some guidance on the proper way to put this back together. This chainsaw looks to be basically the same as a Mustang 149 if that helps in narrowing the options. My primary question is how the connection should be made from the short yellow wire that exits the top section of the handle down to the engine. When I got the saw the switch did not work and a previous owner had spliced/soldered the little yellow wire from the switch directly into the wire from the condenser. Is that correct? Could I just simply extend the little yellow wire by soldering another short piece of wire that has a terminal connector and attach it to the points stud or is there a specific way this particular type of Start/Stop switch needs to be wired and spliced into the condenser? I believe the wiring inside the handle and to the actual switch is correct, it doesn’t appear anyone has tampered with it (at least that’s what I’m hoping for but I added a photo just in case).
Thank you for posting the photos of your pump- I can now see the slight differences. On thing that definitely stands out as different, besides the engine, is my engine has a flange the mounts directly to the side of the pump and it looks like yours has a couple metal brackets that mount at the sides of th engine and bolt to the base.
Another piece mine is missing is the little stabilizer support arm/bracket near the top that attaches the engine to the main pump housing. Look so like something that shouldn’t be too difficult to fabricate.
That certainly looks like something that could be scanned and 3D printed with either FDM or SLS technology in a Nylon material or even a higher performance polymer like PPSU, PEI or PEKK. If you decide to get it scanned sometime let me know and maybe I can give it a go with 3D printing.
Might even be a good candidate for a machined version in aluminum. Heck it could also be machined from a stock shape of polymer.
Ohlsson & Rice: What’s so special about this engine?
in Ohlsson and Rice
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That’s interesting David. The only Sears tool I’ve seen is the chainsaw but those were all white as far as I’ve seen.