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CNew

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  1. CNew

    Neons,

         You look to be roughly 1hr from Boston, is that correct?

     

    Clint

  2. CNew

    Hello Neons,

       I hope you had a Merry Christmas!  I’m not sure if this is coming through as a PM or not but that is my hope.  I’m still looking into how I might work something out for shipping/pick-up on your O&R parts. It’s killing me to know you have this great stuff and that I’m not local to you to come pick it up.  I’ll keep in touch as I figure something out. You mentioned a three digit price, can you let me know what would be acceptable?

     

    Thanks,

    Clint

     

  3. I’m assuming this has sold already but thought I’d check.
  4. Thanks Webhead! Hope you had a great Christmas. By the way, this is the unit that generated my interest in the Tillotson HU38A carbs.
  5. CNew

    Ice Auger

    Very cool auger, do you know who made this?
  6. Hello All, I’m about to dig into this O&R The Groomer and wanted to see if anyone knows how the fuel lines should be hooked up. There is an interesting little inlet nipple machined into the side of the engine where the mounting screws are located. Best I can tell this looks like an attachment point for a fuel line or vent hose of some sort. The little Tillotson carburetor has 2 fuel line elbows. I’m assuming one attaches to the fuel line coming from the tank but where would the other one attach to or is it supposed to attach to the little nipple on the side of the engine? Any suggestions are very appreciated. Thanks!
  7. David, I’ve been looking on the UNI site and I think I’m now understanding that they are recommending just applying their special oil, to a mixture, to the foam filter. Sounds like it’s some sort of fairly thick and sticky oil that you massage into the foam- I’m guessing to help catch the dust. Then they suggest cleaning with their cleaner of course. Thanks, Clint ps: I was able to find the Stihl HP oil (orange container) and some high quality fuel in a can that is distributed/sold by Toro (I think it is 92 octane). This should eliminate the potential of harmful additives and ethanol that is common in the standard service station gas around here. Sorry, I mean to say “oil only, not a mixture” in my last post on oiling the filter.
  8. Amazing! This is incredibly helpful. I’m hoping to get my hands on a Mustang 149 and I don’t know the condition of the clutch and may have a line on these two parts. Thanks! Clint
  9. Thank you David- you’re an amazing wealth of knowledge! Do you think these might fit the Orline Mustang 123 or 149 chainsaws? Sorry to hear about the Firefox issues, that’s always frustrating.
  10. Hello, Does anyone have any O&R information/parts lists that can confirm the application for the following part numbers: A-125-15 and A-62-20? I think these are both clutch or gear box related and maybe for one of the O&R chainsaws. thanks!
  11. Wow, absolutely incredible collection of O&R tools and engines!
  12. Hello, I’m still very new to O&R but learning a ton about these engines from all the great posts and enthusiasts on this forum. One thing I’m still a little puzzled by is how to distinguish between the 3/4 and 1 hp models when the decals are damaged or missing. Are there any obvious tell-tale signs or clues that I can look for, or specific model/types? I hope his new thread lands in the right spot. If I’ve goofed again, my apologies and I’ll need a little guidance as it seems I’m in the right Ohlsson section when adding a new thread. Thanks!
  13. Thank you Paul! I will try to add new threads in the right location going forward.
  14. Hello David, Thank you, my apologies for having these threads in the wrong spot. I guess I didn’t realize you could specify location - I’m still learning how to navigate the forum. Is there an easy way to move them to the right spot? I think I’m going to get a small dental mirror to see if the fuel pick-up pipe is visible inside the tank on the carb side as you suggest. If the fuel line is all rotted I’m not sure how I’ll get in there. It looks like the bottom of the tank is glued on somehow so maybe worst case I’ll have to heat it up and try to pry off the bottom. Yes, unfortunately the recoil starter is missing. I may use this as my learning engine to do my first full tear down and rebuild. I’m anxious to see all the internals and learn more about how they’re constructed (can’t help the engineer in me). Thanks, Clint
  15. Just picked up this Ohlsson & Rice Dyna-Mite, mainly for parts. I think it was originally an O&R Life-Savr generator but it is missing the actual generator section of the unit. Does anyone know what size cap might fit this tank or have a spare cap you might be willing to sell? Also, the tank looks very clean inside but I was suprised to see that there isn’t any sort of fuel pick-up tube that comes down from the fuel nipple. Should it have such a thing or is the fuel sucked up by some other means? If it is indeed missing the fuel pick-up tube are there any suggestions as a possible fix? Thank you for all your expert advice!
  16. David, I bought some UNI brand green filter foam that is 5/8” thick and I can cut out the circles to replace the old filter that has completely disentigrated. Question, the UNI manufacturer recommends oiling the foam for proper filtration. Have you found this to be a good practice even for the O&R engines or should I avoid that step, just looking for a second opinion. Thanks, Clint
  17. Nice, $8 is a good deal. I’ve done business in the past with Abebooks so I’ll have to check them out again as well. Yes, I think you’re correct about the BIN listings, nice catch. I’d prefer to find originals when possible so I may hold off on these for now. Anoying when people don’t specify when they are selling photo copies. Clint
  18. Thanks David! I’m watching a couple eBay listings for the Small Air Cooled Engines manual. I also found a listing for a manual and parts list for an Orline chainsaw that probably has some good info as well. Let me know if there is anything specific you’d like for me to keep an eye out for here in the US and I’ll do my best to let you know if it shows up. Happy to help however I can. Clint
  19. David, I’m definitely hooked now with these engines, they’re addictive. Do you have any recommendations on specific operator and service manuals or other sources of information for these O&Rs? I saw a reference in another post to the Small Air Cooled Engines manual and I plan to get my hands on one of those as soon as possible. In addition to the engines I enjoy collecting misc advertisements and technical information and thought I would see if you had any suggestions of where I might go looking. By the way, I think I’ve located some 3/32 x 3/16 Tygon fuel line. Thanks! Clint
  20. David, Thank you very much, that’s exactly what I needed! I’ll check around for this size in Tygon but if that’s not available I will hunt down the Oregon tubing. Clint
  21. Just to ensure I get the correct size, what is the recommended fuel line size for these O&R engines? I was planning to get some Tygon line and there are quite a few options.
  22. David, I like the way you think. I’m going to keep it original and see what I can do to fix the stickers and clean up the paint without more of it chipping off. I’ll have to read up on the o-ring/seal fix thread to see if I can somehow improve that issue. Thank you for the additional info on AEP as well. I just missed a Drillgine this past week on eBay and I’ve been kicking myself for not jumping on it. I’m still trying to learn what the value/price scale for some of these tools should be and I still don’t know what constitutes a good deal. Seems the range is quite large. If you haven’t seen it already there is a neat Warn winch O&R on there right now but they’re asking a lot for it (a lot in my book anyway) but it looks new. Clint
  23. Webhead, I may have an opportunity where I might need one of these. Are you interested in maybe selling one? If so, what would you be asking? Thanks! Clint
  24. Wow, that’s too funny. Yep, I met Oakslayer/Keith today to pick it up. I need to look into it further to see what he meant with the “seal leaking” reference. As soon as I can get some fuel/oil mixed I’ll be able to run it longer and get a better sense for what issues it might have, if any. I haven’t tried the auger yet to see if it turns. It has a fair amount of chipped paint and stickers pealing off. I need to decide if I ant to fix it up or leave as-is and just get it running well. I’m curious, are there any common problems that the later O&R engines are known for or the ones after Advanced Engine Products bought them out? This one is a model 13B. Clint
  25. Thought I would share my latest edition. Picked up this Strikemaster Icemaster today. Runs ok but need a thorough cleaning and tune up.
 
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