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David, Thank you! I was just researching Three one, Yamabond, Permatex Motoseal and AllSeal as possible gasket makers when your note came through. The inside of my my 149 tank is completely black, looks like dried varnish or something. The fuel line inside is also trashed so I don’t know if I have any other choice but to open it up. There’s no way to get a new fuel line in there and hooked up to the pick-up filter. I’ll check out the thread you linked as well. Clint

Anyone have an engine manual that has with a torque spec for the flywheel nut?

David, You’re amazing. Well that’s not what I was expecting, very interesting air cleaner. I’m a little bummed because that doesn’t look like a common part and it will probably take me quite some time to find one, if ever. Another question, it looks like the fuel line/pick up tube inside the tank is not metal and has the original rubber fuel line which has all but degraded. I doubt I’ll ever find a NOS gasket for the tank. Have you had tried or had any success using RTV type silicone gasket from a tube on these types of applications? Tha is, Clint

Started cleaning up a Mustang 149 chainsaw this afternoon and noticed it doesn’t have any sort of air cleaner. The engine is a Type 236. The intake end of the carburetor does not have a little bar inside the throat or a hole drilled through the edge to use the standard screw hook and air cleaner assemblies common to these engines. Anyone have a guess at what kind of air cleaner would have been used on this saw? And if you know, does anyone have an extra they would like to sell? Thsnks, Clint

This might have been posted somewhere already but I thought I would share a recent find, at least to me anyway. Nice article on the O&R engine.

What are you asking for it?

David, Thank you for all the great suggestions. I’ll have to play with the coil and points a small you suggest with the multimeter. I think I’m understanding how you’re recommending testing it. It would definitely be nice to be able to determine if the points are working. I can confirm that I attached the condenser to the engine. I tried two ways: 1) screwing it to the body of the engine in a threaded hole right next to the kill switch (my Groomer engine has the condenser mounted in this location as well) and 2) putting all the covers back on and screwing the condenser back where it belongs/was originally attached up near the head in the same area as the coil. Thank you you for the photo of all the bits as well. I can also confirm that all the pieces and insulators are in good shape and assembled correctly. Turn the engine I can see the points opening and closing so I believe the little push rod is working correctly. I really appreciate you sharing all the great suggestions and help in sleuthing this one out! Thanks, Clint

Well, I tore it all apart again and gave every single piece a thorough cleaning, polishing, degreasing, etc. - not sure it could be any cleaner. I also cleaned every connector, contact post, screws, nuts, etc. put it all back together and readjusted the points gap and the coil gap and unfortunately still no 🔥. I’m starting to wonder if the points are defective. I resurfaced them again as well and really made sure they were clean and flat. I may try adding the new condenser again but I’m not too hopeful since it didnt seem to help the last time I attempted it. I tried a new spark plug too.

Sorry about the poor photoquality; I noticed that as well after I uploaded it. I verified that the lever is not touchingly the case, there is about 1/8” gap. The 2nd wire is also there but hidden by the shadow. More tinkering ahead....

Thanks Webhead, I’ll give everything another thorough cleaning. The engine has a little kill switch lever for turning it off. Clint

Here is a photo of the points. I checked the gap again and I’d say it is between 0.018-0.020. Should I fiddle with it more to try to get more consistent 0.020?

David, My mistake, I accidentally swapped the values between Primary and Secondary. They should be as you suggest. I do have the flywheel key in place so that shouldn’t be good for correct positioning. I also tried a brand new condenser and still no luck. Webhead, I’ll pull it all back apart and take a photo of the points. When I removed them for cleaning I only took out the springy piece with the copper metal which gave me access to both sides of the points without taking out the entire assembly. I was intentionally trying to avoid unnecessary adjustment. I’m still scratching my head on this one... Thanks, Clint

Hello David, I just took some measurements and here’s what I’m getting: Primary: 7.5-8 k ohms Secondary: 6-12 ohms. I has some trouble getting a decent reading on the secondary depending on where I touched the leads. I grabbed a second meter and repeatedly got nothing or at best 0.1-0.2 ohms. Both meters gave me the same result on the Primary. Clint

Hello David, Thank you for providing the specs, this is very helpful. I checked the points again and they look to be gapped at 0.020 and I also verified the 0.010 clearance between the coil and flywheel. I’ll play around with my multimeter next and see what kind of numbers I get on the coil.

Hello, I’m trying to get a 13B engine ready to run and I’m not able to get spark. I cleaned the points really well and sanded the gently with 400 grit sand paper. I’m wondering if the condenser or maybe even the coil is bad. What should the numbers be if I use a volt meter to test? And, is there a recommended procedure to get the proper measurements? As a side note, the coil does appear to have been repaired at some point in the past with some sort of epoxy putty applied to the side where the high tension lead goes into the coil. I have not tried to remove this yet and would like to test the coil somehow before going any further. Thanks, clint

That’s a beauty alright!

Hello David! I hope you had a great Christmas. You’re an absolute genious on these engines. I really appreciate the insight and knowing the rarity of this one I will not use it as a parts engine. I would like to get it running and make it a stand-alone working display engine. For grins and giggles I just ordered a repair kit for the Tillotson. However, I’m hoping to work something out with Webhead on getting another HU38A carb that is in better operating condition. You mention an incorrect starter being fitted, can you provide some additional clarity on this detail? Is the engine I have missing some critical starter parts needed to get it running? Best I can tell the engine seems to have decent compression and spark so I’m hopeful. I did notice that the little pole where the kill switch, condenser and points usually attach does look to be missing something. There is an open blade/tab that looks like a standard female wire connector. I’m guessing this use to be connected to an on/off switch or something but that’s just a guess. Clint

Looking for just about anything Ohlsson & Rice including: complete or partial Engines, use or NOS parts, tools that were built with these engines, manuals, parts list, advertisements, etc. Located near Minneapolis.

Assuming this sold long ago?

Thank you Newbie, I sent you a message as well.

Very cool compressor, I hadn’t seen that one before. Nice find!

I’m assuming this has sold already but thought I’d check.