CNew

Yes, I believe you’re correct. The flange looks to be part of the casting. When I was first taking this apart I was expecting the flange to be an adaptor plate that was fastened to the induction housing mating surface but was quickly surprised only to find that it is all one piece.

After some painstaking carving and clean-up I think I’m just about ready to try my own hand at repairing the coil. I was able to remove most of the old putty stuff that wasn’t done well at all. I’ll go back in with some Locktite epoxy putty or some such concoction to see if I can get it shaped better and looking more original.

I agree, i prefer to buy complete items as well. This was a bit of a newby mistake on my part since I’m still learning the details of all these tools that used the O&R engines. When I was looking to get this particular saw I didn’t realize it was missing such a unique air cleaner set up. I had seen other photos of the Mustang Model 149 on the web that had the more standard air filter assembly so I didn’t even think twice. I just assumed it was missing the more common air cleaner and I thought I’d be able to find one of those or harvest one from some other parts engine. Learning my lessons

That would be awesome, thank you!

I’m in the process of trying to find a suitable clamp-on filter to fit the flange. I’m wondering if maybe even one of the larger RC car engines might have something. I hadn’t thought about the hose idea which would make it closer to the original setup. I’ll have to noodle on that a little more and see what I can find.

Fortunately the Tillotson rebuild kit came with a new carb to manifold gasket.

Webhead, Thank you for the links. I’ve seen this guys parts listed before and also thought they were a bit on the high side. I will contact him and see if he might combine the pieces. No worries on the parts, I’ll be here and in always in need - I hope I’m able do the “all in one”. I’ve been contemplating in the worst case drilling a hole in the carb lip to install an older style air filter with hook screw on the 149 if I can’t find a reasonable priced assembly or maybe even another parts saw over the course of the next few weeks and months. There is actually a small semi-hole that is cast into the carb body that looks to be where they would normally mount the old style hook screw. Thsnks, Clint

The old gasket isn’t in great shape so I was going to attempt making one and using the old one as a template, unless of course you have

Here are a couple photos during the rebuild of the Tillotson HU38A carburetor. I’m anxious to give this engine a try soon.

Yes, they are indeed finicky! I’ve got a long way to go to being any sort of “Master”! I am learning a great deal from you and David and appreciate you both sharing your knowledge with a new enthusiast like me.

Ok, so finally some success. Perhaps this is known and understood by other but I found the solution to be a little odd. Basically I pulled the recoil starter off my Groomer engine and attached it to this 13B engine. Wah-la -beautiful blue spark! I’m understanding this to be due to rotation speed needed by the flywheel to g t the coil going. Simply spinning the engine by hand wasn’t sufficient to generate enough speed. Does this make sense to others? What led me to this was I was cleaning up the points on my Mustang 149 and ran into the same issue, no spark no matter what I tried. As soon as I put the recoil back on it gave me hot blue spark. Clint

Thanks David! My oversight, I didn’t think to look at that spec sheet you sent. You’re absolutely right- it was right in front of my eyes the whole time Clint

David, Thank you! I was just researching Three one, Yamabond, Permatex Motoseal and AllSeal as possible gasket makers when your note came through. The inside of my my 149 tank is completely black, looks like dried varnish or something. The fuel line inside is also trashed so I don’t know if I have any other choice but to open it up. There’s no way to get a new fuel line in there and hooked up to the pick-up filter. I’ll check out the thread you linked as well. Clint

Anyone have an engine manual that has with a torque spec for the flywheel nut?

David, You’re amazing. Well that’s not what I was expecting, very interesting air cleaner. I’m a little bummed because that doesn’t look like a common part and it will probably take me quite some time to find one, if ever. Another question, it looks like the fuel line/pick up tube inside the tank is not metal and has the original rubber fuel line which has all but degraded. I doubt I’ll ever find a NOS gasket for the tank. Have you had tried or had any success using RTV type silicone gasket from a tube on these types of applications? Tha is, Clint

Started cleaning up a Mustang 149 chainsaw this afternoon and noticed it doesn’t have any sort of air cleaner. The engine is a Type 236. The intake end of the carburetor does not have a little bar inside the throat or a hole drilled through the edge to use the standard screw hook and air cleaner assemblies common to these engines. Anyone have a guess at what kind of air cleaner would have been used on this saw? And if you know, does anyone have an extra they would like to sell? Thsnks, Clint

This might have been posted somewhere already but I thought I would share a recent find, at least to me anyway. Nice article on the O&R engine.

What are you asking for it?

David, Thank you for all the great suggestions. I’ll have to play with the coil and points a small you suggest with the multimeter. I think I’m understanding how you’re recommending testing it. It would definitely be nice to be able to determine if the points are working. I can confirm that I attached the condenser to the engine. I tried two ways: 1) screwing it to the body of the engine in a threaded hole right next to the kill switch (my Groomer engine has the condenser mounted in this location as well) and 2) putting all the covers back on and screwing the condenser back where it belongs/was originally attached up near the head in the same area as the coil. Thank you you for the photo of all the bits as well. I can also confirm that all the pieces and insulators are in good shape and assembled correctly. Turn the engine I can see the points opening and closing so I believe the little push rod is working correctly. I really appreciate you sharing all the great suggestions and help in sleuthing this one out! Thanks, Clint

Well, I tore it all apart again and gave every single piece a thorough cleaning, polishing, degreasing, etc. - not sure it could be any cleaner. I also cleaned every connector, contact post, screws, nuts, etc. put it all back together and readjusted the points gap and the coil gap and unfortunately still no 🔥. I’m starting to wonder if the points are defective. I resurfaced them again as well and really made sure they were clean and flat. I may try adding the new condenser again but I’m not too hopeful since it didnt seem to help the last time I attempted it. I tried a new spark plug too.

Sorry about the poor photoquality; I noticed that as well after I uploaded it. I verified that the lever is not touchingly the case, there is about 1/8” gap. The 2nd wire is also there but hidden by the shadow. More tinkering ahead....

Thanks Webhead, I’ll give everything another thorough cleaning. The engine has a little kill switch lever for turning it off. Clint

Here is a photo of the points. I checked the gap again and I’d say it is between 0.018-0.020. Should I fiddle with it more to try to get more consistent 0.020?

David, My mistake, I accidentally swapped the values between Primary and Secondary. They should be as you suggest. I do have the flywheel key in place so that shouldn’t be good for correct positioning. I also tried a brand new condenser and still no luck. Webhead, I’ll pull it all back apart and take a photo of the points. When I removed them for cleaning I only took out the springy piece with the copper metal which gave me access to both sides of the points without taking out the entire assembly. I was intentionally trying to avoid unnecessary adjustment. I’m still scratching my head on this one... Thanks, Clint

Hello David, I just took some measurements and here’s what I’m getting: Primary: 7.5-8 k ohms Secondary: 6-12 ohms. I has some trouble getting a decent reading on the secondary depending on where I touched the leads. I grabbed a second meter and repeatedly got nothing or at best 0.1-0.2 ohms. Both meters gave me the same result on the Primary. Clint