K-TRON

Thanks. Years of hunting them down
The lapidary saw is for cutting rock, stone. Thin diamond blade with a water reservoir below for cooling
There never was a count on the different tools. Although I've seen and heard of most, new stuff still pops up every once in a while

Didn't have time to really set up the display so they ended up scattered on the trailer. There was still a couple left in the van.
 

I would never consider using a steel flywheel key in a soft aluminum flywheel. It is just asking for trouble. It is common misconception that the flywheel key locks the flywheel to the crankshaft. That is not at all true. It only locates the flywheel for proper timing (in this instance). The taper on the crankshaft is what holds the flywheel in place. In olden days, racers would leave the key completely out of there hotrodded L head engines. As long as the flywheel was sufficiently tight you did not even need one. This allowed operators to change the timing of the engine to whatever their heart desired.
 
Chris

My Comet C-SAW has turned 60 years of age, and I thought that there would be no better present for it than to finally install the new diaphragm gasket I picked up from Wallfish a year and a half ago in Worcester. The old diaphragm was hard and brittle and simply beyond use. I was able to limp it along these last few months by removing it, soaking it in light machine oil, and reinstalling it wet. With the new diaphragm installed the little O&R started up and ran just perfectly. You can hear the little air vane governor working as it powers its way through some wood I had laying about.
 
 
Chris

My Comet C-SAW has turned 60 years of age, and I thought that there would be no better present for it than to finally install the new diaphragm gasket I picked up from Wallfish a year and a half ago in Worcester. The old diaphragm was hard and brittle and simply beyond use. I was able to limp it along these last few months by removing it, soaking it in light machine oil, and reinstalling it wet. With the new diaphragm installed the little O&R started up and ran just perfectly. You can hear the little air vane governor working as it powers its way through some wood I had laying about.
 
 
Chris

The broken con-rod has a twist to it, this happens when someone finds a stuck engine (usually from long term storage or running without oil) and unscrews the cylinder without first attempting to free up the stuck piston, guaranteeing a snapped con-rod.
 
I've only had one engine so far with a snapped con-rod, it was in an almost unused looking Champ generator which I suspect the original owner didn't bother to add any oil to the fuel, I did manage to remove the stuck piston but never could get the rings off it.
As it used the later 14mm cylinder & oiling had failed to move it, the piston got pressed out (do-not try this with older 10mm cylinders).
 
I've also had another stuck engine with a holey piston, that too came out without any more damage (left oil in cylinder over a few days/week).
 
David

This site is dangerous. Every time I login I see all of these 'new' O&R powered machines I have never seen before. I think I 'need' to step up my O&R game. That winch is adorable. How useful it would be is left to your imagination, but it would be pretty badass on a power wheels or something like that.
 
Chris

My Comet C-SAW has turned 60 years of age, and I thought that there would be no better present for it than to finally install the new diaphragm gasket I picked up from Wallfish a year and a half ago in Worcester. The old diaphragm was hard and brittle and simply beyond use. I was able to limp it along these last few months by removing it, soaking it in light machine oil, and reinstalling it wet. With the new diaphragm installed the little O&R started up and ran just perfectly. You can hear the little air vane governor working as it powers its way through some wood I had laying about.
 
 
Chris

My Comet C-SAW has turned 60 years of age, and I thought that there would be no better present for it than to finally install the new diaphragm gasket I picked up from Wallfish a year and a half ago in Worcester. The old diaphragm was hard and brittle and simply beyond use. I was able to limp it along these last few months by removing it, soaking it in light machine oil, and reinstalling it wet. With the new diaphragm installed the little O&R started up and ran just perfectly. You can hear the little air vane governor working as it powers its way through some wood I had laying about.
 
 
Chris

My Comet C-SAW has turned 60 years of age, and I thought that there would be no better present for it than to finally install the new diaphragm gasket I picked up from Wallfish a year and a half ago in Worcester. The old diaphragm was hard and brittle and simply beyond use. I was able to limp it along these last few months by removing it, soaking it in light machine oil, and reinstalling it wet. With the new diaphragm installed the little O&R started up and ran just perfectly. You can hear the little air vane governor working as it powers its way through some wood I had laying about.
 
 
Chris

Wow, an O&R on a multiuse demo saw. That is a new one for me. I wonder how well that worked out. I bet tile contractors loved them. It looks like it powers a ~ 7 or 8 inch grinder wheel. I have a much larger demo saw built by Racine for cutting railroad rail. The 10.5hp West Bend 820 engine turns whatever metal you put in front of the 16 inch abrasive wheel into powder. I would actually love to find one of these mini demo-saws. Its just too cute!
 
Chris

That is quite a little hedge trimmer. I wonder if someone hit a chain link fence or something hard and steel with the trimmer head, in turn breaking the connecting rod. It looks like the damage occured while it was running, and not just a sawing operation to separate the parts. Very cool project. I have been trying to find a Little Wonder with an O&R for the longest time.
 
Chris

Here's a short video, ran ok (not so much for this clip) but then starved for fuel after maybe 5 minutes every time. Loosened the fuel cap, drained and cleaned the tank, opened up the carb.. seems very sensitive to fuel level/sloshing. Diaphragm maybe?
 
 
Ran great while clamped to a 2x4 in a vise but as soon as it got near water.. or under a load... oh well. 

I have been busy inventorying all of my engines, and came across my old Drillgine. It has a model 13B 403 engine # 6092030. It is rated 1hp according to the sticker on the factory toolbox. In my search for information, I need to verify some specifications on this engine. Am I correct that the model 13B has a 1-1/4" bore, and 1.096" stroke, with 1.34 cubic inch, 21.9cc displacement, rated 1hp @ 6300rpm. I have found conflicting rpm numbers for the 1hp rating, 6300 or 7000. I have the year 1967 written down for it, is that correct? It starts and runs real good even after its four or so year slumber.
 
Chris

Thank you for posting that information David!  I was bidding on the O&R master service manual that ended on ebay Friday night. I was hoping to get the service manual cheap, but there was more interest than expected. I am glad you are able and willing to post alot of good O&R information, as that information is priceless when work needs to be done. I bent the brass starter dog spring as best that I could, but sadly it will need to be replaced sooner than later. I will probably make a new one out of a brass feeler gauge of the appropriate thickness shim stock. The starter dogs you posted have a larger counterweight on them than mine do, unless mine were modified at some point in time.
 
Chris

I was going to order some Stens 146-027 #4 recoil rope, but decided that the rope I have should be good enough for several more years of use. I left it at the 37-1/4" length. I had a hell of a time getting the recoil pulley back onto the arbor. I cleaned up the burrs with a needle file, and of course the recoil spring jumped out. I was able to get it all back together and tested again before installing the recoil back on the engine. The pulley was grabbing and binding unevenly until I lubricated the shaft, then all was good. I took this opportunity to replace the five 6-32 machine screws which secure the recoil to the engine with some new stainless steel wire lockable 6-32 machine screws. Previously everytime I ran the engine the recoil screws would loosen up, so this should stop that from happening. I have to say this was by far the most painstaking recoil repair I have ever had to perform. I own over 300 air cooled engines, albeit most do not have recoils, but I can rebuild Briggs, Tecumseh, F-M, Kohler or Schnacke recoils in just a few minutes. This O&R was about seven hours of work start to finish. At least when it was all done, the engine started up and ran good. I am pretty happy with it. I will have to order or make a new diaphragm for the carburetor at some point. Spraying it with oil to make it plyable is only a temporary fix. As per the output shaft on the C-SAW, it uses a 1-1/16" o.d. steel pulley similar to the picture you posted in post #7. Thanks again for all of your help. Next time around, things should go much quicker.
 
Chris