stevasaurus

I also wish to send my best too Chris.  Just found out about this stroke thing.  He will be in my prayers.  

Managed to get some primer over the red oxcide, one grey and one white ( thats what i had on the shelf )
heres some photos 

Found a pair of narrow rear wheels and tyres in my store and thought now the weather has warmed up i would clean them up and fit them on the back of my Raider 12 that i use for ploughing hopefully will give me a bit more traction 

This is a product review.  I recently was looking for a trickle charger that had a maintain function and found this.  Note that I am not endorsing this manufacturer.  This is made by Schmacher Eletcronics., it is a 1.6 Amp trickle charger with a maintain function.  We all have small batteries for our garden tractors, motorcycles, trolling motors, depth finders, etc. and they (for the most part) last about 4 years.  A charged battery lasts longer and I have been able to get 5/6 years out of some of my garden tractor batteries...so far.  With this product, it charges the battery until it is charged and then goes into a maintain function that keeps the battery topped up...no over charge. The price was about $18 at Farm & Fleet.  It comes with a plug at one end that will either plug into a set of aligator clips, or plug into a plug that you can attach to the terminals of your battery. It has 3 led lights on the base...1) red for power...2) yellow for charging...3) green when it is fully charged and on maintain.  I've had a couple of cheaper devices that only maintain the charge that is there, and I have had a one of the three that I have stop working...I am hoping that a few more bucks pays off.  I will let you know.
 

 

No it is hardly noticeable,I turn it on with a toggle switch and the motor pulls a little bit. With the fans and thermal running it is about 30 amps. The freon pulls a little harder but without those worthless thermal the amp load will be less so it should equal out pretty close. The fun part will be to pull the compressor from the bottom of the motor as I will still need enough amps to run fans on the evaporator and on the condenser and clutch.

Don't stop but slowed down after 70. The 2 decks were 30 inch so that makes 60 and depending on the hitch offset the tractor has 36 inch but 7 feet is about all you can do without skipping a patch and old farmers hate point rows HA HA.

I have several of these (from Harbor Freight) that I paid $5 each. I have them on my motorcycles over the winter.
They are maintainers, as they need to sense a voltage in order to work. It WILL NOT work on a dead battery, and it WILL NOT over-charge a battery.

I've got to get something like this, they are really quite useful for those who leave battery items for extended periods of time.  I received a BIG Craftsman battery charger which I love, but it would be handy to have something smaller as well.

The armature in that thing alone has got to be bigger than most drills today

The chair looks Nice steve!  I think you may be one of those "Jacks (or steve) of all trades!!!

Nice job Steve!!  You just can't argue with the quality of an older piece of furniture.  Too many get tossed aside nowdays.  Upholstery is already a lost concept in the current throw-away world, and the work is becoming a lost art! Takes a talented and patient person!

Never been much of a "wood worker" myself but i can certainly appreciate it
Nice job !!!

Usually these chairs just have a piece of plywood for the seat wrapped with some kind of fabric over some padding.  Not this one!  When I took the fabric and padding off, I found a different design.  The frame had some good cracks in it, so I needed to rebuild it.  Used just about every wood working tool I have.  The rest of the chair was in great shape and just needed to be cleaned and waxed.
 

 

 

 

 
I had a couple of pieces of yellow pine laying around, and I figured I could rip it down to size and stay away from any knots.
 

 

 
After ripping, I used a bevel guage and a trim saw to cut the 4 pieces.
 

 
Checking the dry fit and they are ready to glue.
 

 

 
After the glue dried, it was time to cut the notch around the outside of the frame.  The outside sits on the frame of the chair, and the inside sits on the corner blocks and gets screwed to the chair. I used the table saw to cut the notches out.
 

 

 
I then checked the fit and marked the holes and drilled them for the screws to hold the seat to the chair.
 

 
I then used a router to round the top edge.
 

 
The original had a piece of 1/8" plywood over the hole in the frame...so I cut one of those.
 

 
Time for the fabric.  I cut 2 pieces of 1/2" foam for the padding, and I am using some black vinyl for the cover.  The fabric gets stapled to the bottom of the cut notch...first the front, second the back, and then the sides while making a nice corner.
 

 

 

 
And here is the finished project.  Thanks for looking.
 

Usually these chairs just have a piece of plywood for the seat wrapped with some kind of fabric over some padding.  Not this one!  When I took the fabric and padding off, I found a different design.  The frame had some good cracks in it, so I needed to rebuild it.  Used just about every wood working tool I have.  The rest of the chair was in great shape and just needed to be cleaned and waxed.
 

 

 

 

 
I had a couple of pieces of yellow pine laying around, and I figured I could rip it down to size and stay away from any knots.
 

 

 
After ripping, I used a bevel guage and a trim saw to cut the 4 pieces.
 

 
Checking the dry fit and they are ready to glue.
 

 

 
After the glue dried, it was time to cut the notch around the outside of the frame.  The outside sits on the frame of the chair, and the inside sits on the corner blocks and gets screwed to the chair. I used the table saw to cut the notches out.
 

 

 
I then checked the fit and marked the holes and drilled them for the screws to hold the seat to the chair.
 

 
I then used a router to round the top edge.
 

 
The original had a piece of 1/8" plywood over the hole in the frame...so I cut one of those.
 

 
Time for the fabric.  I cut 2 pieces of 1/2" foam for the padding, and I am using some black vinyl for the cover.  The fabric gets stapled to the bottom of the cut notch...first the front, second the back, and then the sides while making a nice corner.
 

 

 

 
And here is the finished project.  Thanks for looking.
 

I really like your wine bar Jason.  Great job of planning and functionality on the inside, and the antique look goes well with wine.

That is one huge piece of concrete your hoist is holding...I'm impressed.

Not to get too off-topic, but this is what's on my camper.
 

 
It's the entire axle, not just a cap.  The grease from the zerk flows through the axle and exit's behind the rear bearing, then pushes forward.  You do this by spinning the wheel, when the grease comes out the front both bearings got lubed.

The EZ-Lube instructions actually tell you to pump it in till it comes out (the front anyway)

I know a lot of us have trailers, and I think one of the most neglected things on a trailer is the bearings.  This is a "how to" with pictures and a video of how I was taught how to do this.  Hope you enjoy this and that it helps you care for the bearings in your trailer.
 
The bearing that volunteered for this project. 
 

 
A little blurry, but using a screwdriver to drive off the dust cap.
 

 
Once loose, you can work the dust cover off with a pair of channel locks
 

 
Using a side cutters to grab the catter pin and remove it.
 

 
Remove the castle nut.
 

 
Pull off the hub with the inner and outer bearings.
 

 

 
Use a punch to tap out the inner bearing and seal.
 

 
Click on the video to see how to pack the bearings.
 

 
 

 
Thanks for taking a look.

I know a lot of us have trailers, and I think one of the most neglected things on a trailer is the bearings.  This is a "how to" with pictures and a video of how I was taught how to do this.  Hope you enjoy this and that it helps you care for the bearings in your trailer.
 
The bearing that volunteered for this project. 
 

 
A little blurry, but using a screwdriver to drive off the dust cap.
 

 
Once loose, you can work the dust cover off with a pair of channel locks
 

 
Using a side cutters to grab the catter pin and remove it.
 

 
Remove the castle nut.
 

 
Pull off the hub with the inner and outer bearings.
 

 

 
Use a punch to tap out the inner bearing and seal.
 

 
Click on the video to see how to pack the bearings.
 

 
 

 
Thanks for taking a look.

Back in 2006 my wife wanted a wine bar for the living room, but the more we looked at places like World Market, Crate and Barrel and Pottery Barn... the more we realized that everything nowadays is just laminated MDF. We wanted something real. So we came up with the idea of using an antique icebox, and started looking at flea markets and antique malls.
 
We looked for well over six months to find one with two large doors rather than the more common three door models. We found one that had been gutted by a previous owner, and I retrofitted the interior, making no changes or damage to the original piece. She drew up the design and I blueprinted it to fit the dimensions we had. 
 
It holds 9 wine glasses in a stemware holder from Lowes, and 30 standard sized wine bottles.  (27 in the right and 3 at the bottom left)  The shelf on the top left is for the bottle opener.  Wish I would have thought to take more pictures of it as it went together.  The rack on the right is built completely out of 3/4" square oak stock.  There are four vertical posts that were routed out 1/4" on two opposite sides to nest the horizontal resting bars into. Horizontal bars were glued and brad nailed. When I was done it mapped out to 27 perfectly identical squares, with the perfect depth for horizontal wine storage.
 
Essentially I built it as a kit and did final assembly inside the ice box itself. We like it. It's held up through a household move and now 7 years later still holding wine bottles.