Sometimes when cleaning the jets in the carb, there are hardened deposits that carb cleaner alone does not shift. I find a wire from a wooden handle wire brush is perfect for poking out blocked jets without damaging the jet
Steph, there is a complete Aspera HSB40 engine with 2 hours left on fleabag. Looks like it's in your part of the country too. I don't know if the carb is the same but it looks similar
I only had a quick look yesterday & the outer casing of the clutch was red in colour. I seem to remember there is a hole for a grubscrew or roll pin (couldn't see which). Is this how it comes away from engine. Certainly when it was working the spring inside is quite strong as the handlebar lever needs a bit of pulling. Does this help i n terms of identifying which type it is. Cheers, Ian
Appreciate some advice on this if anyone can help. My dad uses on old 19" Harrier 2 & has lost the drive. The drive cable seems to actuate a lever that engages the drive. Need to get this apart but it's not that clear how this is done.
Thanks for the advice guys. I had to get the grinder out again & cut the collar & both sprockets off. One thing I hadn't noticed was that the raised tags on right hand roller had all sheared off (I even posted a photo & still didn't see it). Not sure Hayter would do it this way but I cut a triangular v out of all the wide tags and bent up one of the 2 tags it created on each section. Well packed with grease & works a treat
I have got a bit further now but as mentioned I did end up cutting the sprocket off. I have ordered the freewheels but cannot work out how the old ones are removed from the shaft. Any advice gratefully received. Cheers, Ian
Thanks for your comments, just been for a quick look & no sign of any roll pin. Will try to get a puller on it and a bit of heat. Is there any way to tension the chain or will it need to be replaced. It is far too loose & came off & jammed the drive up.
Hi all, I have unfortunately volunteered to replace the roller freewheels on my brother in law's Hayter Harrier 56 & finding it challenging to say the least. I have managed to remove one half of the roller but am I correct in assuming that the sprocket needs a puller to remove it from the shaft. The circlips have been removed from both sprockets but the large sprocket is not moving. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
I used a A20.5 in the end & it works perfectly. The little Suffolk engine starts first pull every time. Did quite a bit on it last weekend so have added a few photos. Ian
You may be barking up the wrong tree as it is more likely to be the points need cleaning & failing that the condenser. These are located under the flywheel. His best bet is to get a magnetron from the 3.5hp Black Briggs engines that were fitted to many 16 - 18" mowers that have now rotted away. He can then remove the old Magneto & cut the wires that go under the flywheel & fit the magnetron & never worry about points again.
Hope it fits ok. Think I will get the A21 & if it is a bit long I can always put a few washers between the engine and the chassis. Did some spraying today & found Wilko own brand red at under £4 a can comes out a nice shade of orange.
Can anybody help with the correct size belt for a Westwood Gemini with the original Suffolk engine. I just assumed it would be the same as the Flymo DM & bought an A20 but it is just too short & will not go on. I am torn between buying an A20.5 & an A21
Snowman, I did spin it over without the plug a few times on Sunday. It turned over a lot better as you would expect but was probably not as free as it should be. Wristpin, originally the inlet valve was partially open on all 3 strokes when it shouldn't be & this was why it was spitting back through the carb. I only took a bit off the valve stem so I don't think the clearance will be excessive. Not touched the exhaust valve so not sure why it does not partially open on compression. I thought about putting an extra head gasket on to reduce the compression. Do you think this may help. The machine has not run for a long time so if I could just get it to start it may loosen it up just through running.
Checked the compression tonight & only 45psi so must be something internal causing this. Not a big fan of Tecumseh engines so might be time to fit another motor
Hi all, I would appreciate any advice please. I have an Alko 5000 with a Tecumseh Bvl198 5 hp engine. It is so hard to pull over that it only turns 1 cycle & stops before completing compression a second time. Yesterday it would spit back through the carb or nearly wrench your arm off with a vicious recoil. I checked for a partially sheared flywheel key & it was fine. I took the head off and noticed the inlet valve was not sealing probably due to wear on the head so I took the valve out & ground a bit off the pushrod end of the valve. This sorted the inlet valve but now the compression is so high you have to ease it on compression and pull as hard as you can. I have removed the drive belt so there is no resistance there. I know some of these older 5hp engines were designed to open the exhaust valve very slightly on compression but this doesn't.
I think that one is for the auto choke model. The diaphragm is about that size but doesn't have the part that connect to the choke flap. The carb has the small spring and curved washer like the horizontal carbs but the diaphragm is bigger than the 270026 that they use.
Thanks for all your replies. I think I messed up with the first digit of the model number. I have attached a few photos but looking at the diaphragms in the parts list I am not convinced it is the same as any of them. I will ship the carb off & have a look. Cheers, Ian
Hi all, can anyone help with the part number of the diaphragm fitted to an old (maybe late 60s) 3.5hp vertical Briggs engine please. It is a white engine and the carb is Not the automatic choke type. I think the engine code says 65902. It is fitted to an early (green) mountfield m1 Tiller.
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in Other Garden Machines
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Many thanks, I presume this would have been on one of the larger Howards