Fix'em all

I think I am right in saying it is an Atco W8 & the Aspera engine is  a LAV35. If you need Aspera parts you may be best searching for Tecumseh.

Have now finished the  Merry Tiller Spartan & looks so nice it will be a shame to get it dirty

Fitted new tank gasket & still the same. Looked again at the choke & although it looked closed there was a tiny gap both sides of the flap. Slight mod to the set up and it closes tight now & started second pull. I should have checked it properly, thanks guys

Happy birthday Angus, thanks for your advice through the year

I took the air filter housing off & put my hand over the carb & fuel came up straight away. I have put it all back together and put the air filter cover on  but it still takes about 10 pulls on full choke to get it to start from cold. Runs lovely when it it starts. The only thing that is different is there was a foam & mesh filter in the air filter cover that was rotten so I removed it. The paper filter is all good so don't know if not having the additional filter is enough to cause this. The new tank gasket should arrive in the week. It does weep a bit so it may be sucking air in & preventing the fuel drawing up.

The choke flap is fully closed so I don't believe it is the issue with this. The tank to carb gasket does seem to weep a spot of fuel so my thinking is that it is also sucking air and preventing the fuel from being drawn up from the upper tank chamber. Am I right in assuming this ?

Nigel, thanks for the parts breakdown. I wondered if I am getting a good enough seal between the tank and the carb, so I ordered a new gasket first thing this morning. Only trouble is I have ordered  part no 272996 & your breakdown shows 692241. They look the same but not sure on dimensions.

Reiver - the choke does fully close, but I did notice that if the screw fixing the air filter base plate to the choke lever plate is too long it stops the choke lever before the choke flap is fully closed.

Am I correct in saying that the diaphragm only draws fuel up from the main tank to the upper section in the  tank. If so then it is doing that, but is it the vacuum of the intake stroke that draws it up into the upper part of the carb.

I have a later style Merry Tiller with a 5hp Briggs I/C engine that is refusing to start & is stretching my normally good diagnostic skills now. It is fuel related as it will start when I tip fuel in via the air filter but once it stops it will not draw fuel into the carb. It is pumping up into the raised chamber in the tank but that is as far as it will come. So far I have cleaned the carb thoroughly including under the mixture screw. When you blow through both the pipes on the bottom of the carb it is all clear with no obstruction. I have fitted a new diaphragm and there is a good seal between the carb & inlet manifold. Any ideas what I can try as I am stumped now

In my experience 90% of the time cleaning the points will get the spark back. Hope the carb is ok as that type can be a bit of a  pain to work on and tend to leak fuel when the engine is not running.

Picked up this little tool yesterday. Obviously old but does anyone know how old it might be.

Sold

Will the Briggs engine live again. It appears to have an offset drive  gearbox fitted to it (not sure of the correct name for it).

Have now got the second of my 2 for a fiver rotovators running after two attempts at purchasing the correct points for the Aspera engine. I am interested in finding how old this rotavator is if anyone can help. The Aspera engine has engine code HL30-M166/31 and serial no 214026. The Landmaster serial no has been hit by a few rocks over the years but I think it is D18698  The engine is red in colour with  a decorative pattern pressed into the pull start cover.

Reduced to £95

Is there a good seal between the carb & engine. Is there a mixture screw on the carb & was this removed & cleaned inside.

Presuming it has a float & needle valve, are they allowing fuel in as they should.

Finally got the little JAP 80 engine running today but removing the flywheel was hell's own job. They don't have a keyway on the shaft so the shaft and flywheel are tapered and once on they want to stay on. I had to drill into the ally flywheel right next to the shaft to release it's clamp on the shaft. Luckily I drilled into the shaft a bit. I used this to re-align the  flywheel, as there is no way of knowing which position is correct without a keyway.

This engine is too heavy for what I wanted it for so have decided to sell it. No smoke & starts & runs as it should. £120  NN13 postcode, 15 minutes from M1 junction 15a or 5 minutes from junction 10 M40

Ok cheers. The info I have is 2 turns out on main & 1.1/4 on idle

Can anyone help please. I have got my recently purchased K181 engine running but I think the carb needs the mixture screws setting. There are 2 mixture screws that I believe are low & high idle & an idle speed screw. I am not sure which of the idle screws is which (one on top & one at a 45 degree angle on the side).

Picked up this unusual machine this morning. Have got the missing bits in a box. Fitted with a 2 stroke JAP 80 engine that is all ther

e but has no spark (usual suspects no doubt). Made by English Powerspades Ltd who appear to have ceased trading in 1968. Looks quite well made & is certainly heavier than the Gardenmaster 85 that came with it.

Made a bit of a mess of this (it skills failed again) more photos

I did see an electronic ignition conversion kit for under £19 on fleabay. Are these known to be poor quality

What make are the 3 finger bar mowers next to the Vivian Lloyd

Picking this up Monday. It has no spark so I presume it will be points or condenser as most likely culprit. Anyone know if  spares are readily available.