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Wallfish

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Posts posted by Wallfish
 
 

  1. 7 hours ago, Mitch said:

    Hello Wallfish, Any luck finding a needle valve assembly.

    Found a housing and a needle ( #21, 25 ) but not the little parts, washer, o ring or spring ( 22, 23, 24 ). You can get those at any good hardware store or find something online

    Did you ever open the carb to make sure the other parts are there? Someone lost the valve so you should check EVERYTHING to make sure you don't need anything else.

     

    You can do everything else on your engine like cleaning the points if it doesn't have spark now, fix the recoil (DO NOT DRILL OUT THE RIVET),  etc etc. Fire it up with a squirt of 32:1 mixed fuel to verify it's a running engine. And you can also check the generator when it fires off too. If it doesn't run or generate power, does taking my last valve make sense? Your welcome to it if you need it!


  2. You need the gasket, the plastic check valve, the complete needle valve.

    Probably a diaphragm

    Have you opened up the cover to see if any other parts are missing in there? Arm, spring, bearing ball?

    I'll take a look around to see if I have a complete valve,

     

    5932a3f639e85_OhlssonRiceCarbPartsDiagram.jpg.310d52199911faf39df0a7a355114447.jpg.2b354f566ad43df04ba7c1686d9ed136.jpg


  3. :WMOM:

    Are you referring to the actual needle valve?

    Some of the older engines had a smaller needle valve on the side of the carb and a screw which holds the diaphragm assembly to the lower carb body. Newer models have the the needle holding the diaphragm assembly to the carb body.

    Maybe a pic would help determine what carb you have and what you're missing.


  4. 1 hour ago, Yevick said:

    I'm still working with cleaning this up and made it to the clutch which everything in the gearbox is a dried up sticky mess. I was working the clutch butterflies back and forth and the two pieces of spring steel flew out. Is this clutch repairable now or have I ruined it? I don't know how they were in there

    The springs can go in and out so they just need to be set back in place as long as they aren't broken. I don't remember ever seeing a distinct clutch assembly drawing but there may be one on here somewhere, I just couldn't find one. There are a couple of different clutch setups so not knowing exactly what you are working with makes any details or advice difficult. How about posting a picture of it?


  5. :WMOM:

    The wire should go to a kill switch button on the handle to shut down the engine by grounding the coil. Location of the switch depends on the model.

    One port is an air vent. It goes from the bottom of the tank to just inside of the fuel cap. The other port is the fuel feed to the carb.

    More than likely it will need a new carb diaphragm to run or run correctly. Check the air filter BEFORE trying to start it. If it has that old crusty material inside, it will need to be thoroughly cleaned out. Otherwise it will be sucked into the engine. Not good.

     

    If you use the search feature you can find other threads on the Drillgine drills.

    Here's a link to the search results for "Drillgine" in topics only. There are threads on the early reds and later yellows

    https://myoldmachine.com/search/?q=drillgine&quick=1&type=forums_topic


  6. 10 minutes ago, brad2921 said:

    Where can I find a cylinder o-ring and rubber manifold gaskets for the bottom of the cylinder?

    :WMOM:

    Re use them if possible. I've reused many without issue if they were not damaged

    If they were damaged, search "High Temp gasket material" to cut your own. The O ring isn't anything special and can be found with a search for that size as well


  7. On 10/11/2024 at 8:36 AM, alexandre69 said:

    Hi im alex from france. I need to find a New condensator and New high tension coil.

    Someone could help me? Thanks a lot in advance 

    It's not very common for one of these coils to fail, except the early models had a smaller tension plug wire that could more easily get damaged.

    I'm assuming your engine does not have spark. Have you cleaned the point contacts under the flywheel? If you parts are not damaged you may not need parts.


  8. RPM at full throttle is 6300 So yeah, they scream a little bit

    Governor is never "guaranteed" but they seem to work very well. I've never had one fail while the engine is running. It's controlled by the spring on the bottom of the carb.  No adjustments are available on those older versions. Newer ones have a lever that can adjust tension on the spring

    Diaphragm should be soft and pliable for best results. Wrinkles indicate it's probably old and stiff.

     


  9. 14 hours ago, gt350shelb@aol.com said:

    While digging around the internet  looking for info  on the Ouragan  and the o&r engine ..... I was lucky enough to find this thread .

    I also own one of these cars  That i bought from a toy collector that did not know  what it was. 

    Mine was missing the engine but over all it is very complete . I have located a o&r drill  that will likely be the power for the racer.

     And i will now check the gear box for a number !  Thanks for the shared info you have all ready  found.

    :WMOM:

    VERY NICE FIND!!!!!!!!!! I would love to get one of those and tried before to import one to the US.

    An engine would be the easy part to find so you're all set there but the correct gearbox MAY be required. The direction of the shaft spin and the rpm is what changes between the gearboxes. The drill gearbox will give you the correct direction of the shaft and probably the correct rpm because it does utilize 3 gears inside of it. The only questionable thing would be the way the gearbox mounts because the gear case itself is specific to the drills. You will need to adapt and make something for mounting it and also adapt a way to add the pulley/sheave. I would make that adapter for mounting some sort of bolt on type of thing vs making something permanent so it could always be switched back to use the original type correct gearbox. With something that rare, originality might be best just to keep the value of it.

    Please share pics as you go along if you can. They are very interesting pieces of history


  10. On 8/19/2024 at 10:03 PM, Mike in NC said:

    Has anyone seen an electric conversion for the Aquabug?

    I do remember someone posted one that could switch back and forth from gas to electric but I cannot seem to find it now.

    It could've been way back on the old forum before we switched to here. Lots of that info was lost


  11. The original Aquabug gas tanks are fairly hard to come by. The cap has a little fold-able vent and when it's left closed the tank is sealed tight, then change in temperature will cause pressure which expands and contracts the air inside, and that cracks the plastic seems. That's exactly what happened to my first one so I learned to leave that vent open. Pretty sure many of them met their demise the same way when being stored.


  12. 2 hours ago, Sharri Dandy said:

    Just got my hands on a little Perry Aquabug. Reasonable condition but the fuel tank and cover are missing. Bit of a long shot but does anyone have any spares?

    Personally I think they look better without the plastic cover and with a regular O&R gas tank, so maybe go with that until you can locate the proper tank and cover.


  13. 5 hours ago, UnicycleParrot said:

    Thanks for the advice!

     

    Is there any specific reason on why you would suggest a repair of the spark plug wire, and not just a complete replacement?

     

    Also, is there a specific gauge of wire that is best for a spark plug wire?

    Yes, those older type coils are not a replaceable wire like the newer type coils are. You can repair it with a new wire but you're still soldering and repairing the insulation anyway. By just repairing/replacing the insulation on the old wire, it remains looking original. Plus, I don't know of any plug wire to repair it with.


  14. 4 hours ago, Knockdown said:

    I just got the carburetor installed and now I think I broke the starter recoil spring and I don’t know how to remove it . I’ve got the housing off but it appears that it’s riveted to the housing . Any ideas?

     

     

    thank you for the coill repair guide and yes the spring is broken.

    Does anyone know where to get another spring?

    Knockdown

    Thank you for the coil repair guide. I got the spool off and the spring was broken so now I need a new spring. Does anyone know where to get one?. 
    I want to thank all of you guys for all your help and support 

    Knockdown
     

    That guide also explains how to repair the spring. By heating to cherry red then allowing it to cool . It can be bent back into shape without breaking it.

    Can you please ask question in a new tread or a different thread instead of the this carb tutorial. We need to keep it cleaner and especially so with questions that do not pertain to the carb.


  15. Yes the carb cap hole should be there.

    The abbreviation NOS = New Old Stock

    I've repaired those cracked insulation wires. Removed the cracked insulation, coated with liquid electrical tape (a few coats), covered with shrink tube.

    It can be covered with different sizes of shrink tube over top of each other but it makes it kind of stiff

    Yes, any engine can "run away"  with high RPM.


  16. 19 minutes ago, UnicycleParrot said:

    It is interesting to hear that it is an earlier model. I am a little curious if it is in better condition than others of the same vintage.

    Yes, it's in very nice condition.

    I have 2 of those

    IMG_0710.jpg.486b4ac179343a1bf06694e9e5fac2d1.jpg

     

    IMG_0711.jpg.ae8c74236ff4e62113607a2216b85566.jpg


  17. :WMOM:

    What you have is one of the early engines. Wood tone handle instead of black, early coil, the blower housing screws are from the back instead of the heads on the front, no primer carb, jet screw on the side instead of the top, etc etc.

    All of those are normal things for an early type engine.

    There should be a hole in the bump on the top of the blower housing which holds a metal tab to ground the spark plug off to stop it.

    I'm not sure what you mean by it having a "single point". The points are under the flywheel and under that little cover that will be exposed after the flywheel is off. There are 2 point contacts that touch one another and probably need to be cleaned because they oxidize over time and that will prevent continuity because they aren't actually touching together.

    You can mix modern 2 stroke oil at 32:1

    If the diaphragm in the carb is stiff it will need to be replaced in order for it to pump fuel.

 
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