Does anyone have any spares they want to sell? Post them here.
Took a look around and have some spare tools I'd consider letting go of. I also found a bar and chain that would fit that Ford saw if you haven't found one.
Those cylinder cooling fins and the air cleaners are some of the most common missing parts so your best bet is to keep an eye out on ebay as they do pop up every once in a while.
Search "Orline chainsaw" for the other parts too. Chain and throttle cable. The FORD saw is just a branded Orline saw so the parts are the same, just a different color
You will also need a new carb diaphragm too.
If you choose to do it, the crank seals can be somewhat rejuvenated by soaking them in place with a few drops of old school brake DOT3 brake fluid. Synthetic will not work. Carb cleaner spray can work too but not as well plus it washes off the lubrication oils so it'll start dry unless you oil them afterwards and before starting it.
wind the spring and keep pulling on the tail to cinch it tighter and smaller. Repeat, repeat, repeat until it's wound tight and will fit in the holder.
I have the spring wound up in the round piece that comes with new springs and I set it in the recoil housing but how do you remove the holder from the spring thanks.
Hold the spring down with your thumb at the holder opening and pic out the holder with something sharp. Release the thumb pressure slowly so the spring unwinds slowly
I meant a pic of all the carb parts but I can probably find one or make a disk and attach it to a diaphragm for you. That little disk would or should be attached right to the diaphragm. It gives a rigid point for the little arm to contact to pulse it and pump gas. Without it, the diaphragm wouldn't have enough movement to pump enough gas.
PM your address. (The little envelope icon at the top right of any page)
Here's a thread I did a while back on a TT restore if you're interested. I also just pined it so it's on the top of the list and easier to find in the future. The TT generators are the most common O&R tool sold
I have a tiny tiger carb that I thought i had disassembled very carefully. I want to replace the diaphragm and need a source. Also, I'm sure this carb has never been apart before, but I cant find any sign of the diaphragm "disc" shown on the parts list. So, I will need this also. I looked very carefully and can't see how I may have lost it. Any chance that this engine was running fine without the disc ?
I don't understand how this carb pumps fuel. The pump carbs that I have worked on usually have a port hole or hose to the crankcase and the diaphragm action is via crank case pressure. Other than the primer valve. What causes the diaphragm pump action while the motor is running ?
Some had a small disk attached to directly to the diaphragm, some did not but had a larger disk part that covered the entire surface. Maybe post a picture of what you have.
Depending where you're located, I have diaphragms.
The pulse still comes from crank pressure/vacuum. But a 2 stroke uses a reed valve to control it then and it's right through the carb that pulses the diaphragm.
The wire needs to be bent in such a way to feed both ends of the wire through the holes from inside of the spool out. The factory pieces resemble 1/2 a paper clip and the wire is kind of soft
I separated the entire generator thanks. On the fuel tank why does it have a fuel line from one side of the tank to the other side as well as a fitting for the carburetor?
The shape of tank. The line from one side to the other allows air to escape out the top. Otherwise the opposite side from the fill neck would just remain an air bubble on the top without it. So that line allows it to fill all the space so the tank holds more fuel
Carefully check where that wire was repaired. It's difficult to open that crusty stuff up without cracking more but just go slow. Solder with a solder gun and not a torch
Check the other wires too as once you open it up and move them the insulation cracks easy.
I have a talking meter so put the meter leads on the wires that go to the plug outlet?
The winding wires of the generator without anything connected to them. You should be able to figure out if something is shorted or if the wire is broken and not making a complete circuit. Then you can verify through the AC plug as the wires connect directly to that. Systematic detective work going through each circuit to hunt down where the issue is.
It appears there are 2 separate set of windings. One for the AC and the other for the DC. Verify you are connecting the correct wires to each.
That old epoxy is always cracked and brittle so moving the wires can expose the copper wire and cause a "short". Maybe use a meter to confirm the windings are not shorted to each other.
Have someone look at this wiring pic for you. It's an open generator with the wiring
I've received them shipped both ways. Full unit in a large box and partially disassembled to fit in a smaller box. Never shipped one of those but i have broken down large tools and shipped in a smaller box.
O&R parts for sale? Post them here.
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
Took a look around and have some spare tools I'd consider letting go of. I also found a bar and chain that would fit that Ford saw if you haven't found one.
C/Saw Circular saw
Hedge Trimmer
Amp Champ generator (Completely rebuilt engine)
Tiny Tiger 300 generator (Completely rebuilt engine)
Snow Blower (Completely rebuilt engine and gear box)
? Aquabug Outboard
? Chicken Power bicycle engine