I meant a pic of all the carb parts but I can probably find one or make a disk and attach it to a diaphragm for you. That little disk would or should be attached right to the diaphragm. It gives a rigid point for the little arm to contact to pulse it and pump gas. Without it, the diaphragm wouldn't have enough movement to pump enough gas.
PM your address. (The little envelope icon at the top right of any page)
Here's a thread I did a while back on a TT restore if you're interested. I also just pined it so it's on the top of the list and easier to find in the future. The TT generators are the most common O&R tool sold
I have a tiny tiger carb that I thought i had disassembled very carefully. I want to replace the diaphragm and need a source. Also, I'm sure this carb has never been apart before, but I cant find any sign of the diaphragm "disc" shown on the parts list. So, I will need this also. I looked very carefully and can't see how I may have lost it. Any chance that this engine was running fine without the disc ?
I don't understand how this carb pumps fuel. The pump carbs that I have worked on usually have a port hole or hose to the crankcase and the diaphragm action is via crank case pressure. Other than the primer valve. What causes the diaphragm pump action while the motor is running ?
Some had a small disk attached to directly to the diaphragm, some did not but had a larger disk part that covered the entire surface. Maybe post a picture of what you have.
Depending where you're located, I have diaphragms.
The pulse still comes from crank pressure/vacuum. But a 2 stroke uses a reed valve to control it then and it's right through the carb that pulses the diaphragm.
The wire needs to be bent in such a way to feed both ends of the wire through the holes from inside of the spool out. The factory pieces resemble 1/2 a paper clip and the wire is kind of soft
I separated the entire generator thanks. On the fuel tank why does it have a fuel line from one side of the tank to the other side as well as a fitting for the carburetor?
The shape of tank. The line from one side to the other allows air to escape out the top. Otherwise the opposite side from the fill neck would just remain an air bubble on the top without it. So that line allows it to fill all the space so the tank holds more fuel
Carefully check where that wire was repaired. It's difficult to open that crusty stuff up without cracking more but just go slow. Solder with a solder gun and not a torch
Check the other wires too as once you open it up and move them the insulation cracks easy.
I have a talking meter so put the meter leads on the wires that go to the plug outlet?
The winding wires of the generator without anything connected to them. You should be able to figure out if something is shorted or if the wire is broken and not making a complete circuit. Then you can verify through the AC plug as the wires connect directly to that. Systematic detective work going through each circuit to hunt down where the issue is.
It appears there are 2 separate set of windings. One for the AC and the other for the DC. Verify you are connecting the correct wires to each.
That old epoxy is always cracked and brittle so moving the wires can expose the copper wire and cause a "short". Maybe use a meter to confirm the windings are not shorted to each other.
Have someone look at this wiring pic for you. It's an open generator with the wiring
I've received them shipped both ways. Full unit in a large box and partially disassembled to fit in a smaller box. Never shipped one of those but i have broken down large tools and shipped in a smaller box.
No slack at all. the "epoxy" or whatever it is holds and isolates the winding wires. You can pick it out carefully and solder the wire back but be sure to cover it again. Something like liquid electrical tape should work.
You guys should communicate through private message. Use the little envelope button in the top right corner and you can message directly with each other without including everyone else.
The forum threads are for sharing information with others but private sales do NOT concern others. Please use PM. I'll delete most of this thread but give you time to figure it privately before doing that.
I am trying to wind the recoil spring using vise grips and a vise but not so easy. I was wondering how other people wind the spring? After I wind it I hold it with vise grips and try to drop it in and the vise grips slips and it unwinds so I have to start all over again.
I just use my fingers. Wind a bunch of wraps then pull on it so it tightens up the coil then pinch it tight again and repeat as many times as it takes.
The factory new spring retainer is a piece of steel shaped like a C which keeps it tight in a package and makes then easy to install. You can make one out of a 1/8" sliver of 2 inch pipe. I think even PVC pipe would work.
Wind the spring by hand, then let it uncoil into the C shaped retainer. That way it can easily be placed into the recoil housing. Then the retainer is removed while holding the spring down in the housing with your thumb. Let it uncoil slowly in the housing until it's tight
Thanks I am blind can't see pictures so I gather when you say spcer you are talking the round pieces that have the hole in the middle then the last one is the piece that has small holes then you put the muffler?
Sorry, I did post a pic of the pieces.
You should have a 3 piece muffler now so the piece in the center is the spacer and they can be stacked as many as you want
Thanks and when you put the ohlsson mufflers you put the spacers that have smaller holes between each muffler? Some of the spacers I have have a hole in the middle also
There's one cap that has the face with the little holes and the rest are the spacers with bent tab holes at the bottom. You can stack as many as you want but you'll need to make a threaded rod piece for whatever length you stack them to retain it. You can typically find longer screws at the hardware store and just bend the end like the one that;s on there now. Pretty sure the thread size is #6
It took the small muffler and I am just running it not for camping. I am going to try and run a battery charger with it.
The 2 small posts are already 12v DC. They were mostly used to run the 12v electric starters for RC stuff but it should also work to charge 12v batteries as well.
Those small mufflers can be stacked but finding them at a reasonable cost may be difficult. Lots go missing because people take them off and don't put them back so everyone is always looking for mufflers and air cleaners.
I had original muffler on it stil very loud so I will look for another.
Yours is a model 350? Like pictured above? That style is quieter than a 300 is.
The 300 just used the common little black mufflers/spark arrester.
Are you using that for camping or something? Like the outboards do, if you run a metal hose from it into a bucket of water all you will hear is water bubbling so maybe you could experiment with that????
I modified the muffler pipe on a tiger tiger and screwed a briggs stratton small muffler but it is still noisey. Is there a quieter muffler I can adapt thanks.
The Tiny Tiger model 350 used a different style muffler. Or search on epay for 2 stroke muffler and maybe adapt one.
Tiny Tiger pump function
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
I meant a pic of all the carb parts but I can probably find one or make a disk and attach it to a diaphragm for you. That little disk would or should be attached right to the diaphragm. It gives a rigid point for the little arm to contact to pulse it and pump gas. Without it, the diaphragm wouldn't have enough movement to pump enough gas.
PM your address. (The little envelope icon at the top right of any page)
Here's a thread I did a while back on a TT restore if you're interested. I also just pined it so it's on the top of the list and easier to find in the future. The TT generators are the most common O&R tool sold
https://myoldmachine.com/topic/1439-tiny-tiger-350-restore/
Do you have this part? Some carbs use this instead of the little disk attached to the diaphragm