Carefully check where that wire was repaired. It's difficult to open that crusty stuff up without cracking more but just go slow. Solder with a solder gun and not a torch
Check the other wires too as once you open it up and move them the insulation cracks easy.
I have a talking meter so put the meter leads on the wires that go to the plug outlet?
The winding wires of the generator without anything connected to them. You should be able to figure out if something is shorted or if the wire is broken and not making a complete circuit. Then you can verify through the AC plug as the wires connect directly to that. Systematic detective work going through each circuit to hunt down where the issue is.
It appears there are 2 separate set of windings. One for the AC and the other for the DC. Verify you are connecting the correct wires to each.
That old epoxy is always cracked and brittle so moving the wires can expose the copper wire and cause a "short". Maybe use a meter to confirm the windings are not shorted to each other.
Have someone look at this wiring pic for you. It's an open generator with the wiring
I've received them shipped both ways. Full unit in a large box and partially disassembled to fit in a smaller box. Never shipped one of those but i have broken down large tools and shipped in a smaller box.
No slack at all. the "epoxy" or whatever it is holds and isolates the winding wires. You can pick it out carefully and solder the wire back but be sure to cover it again. Something like liquid electrical tape should work.
You guys should communicate through private message. Use the little envelope button in the top right corner and you can message directly with each other without including everyone else.
The forum threads are for sharing information with others but private sales do NOT concern others. Please use PM. I'll delete most of this thread but give you time to figure it privately before doing that.
I am trying to wind the recoil spring using vise grips and a vise but not so easy. I was wondering how other people wind the spring? After I wind it I hold it with vise grips and try to drop it in and the vise grips slips and it unwinds so I have to start all over again.
I just use my fingers. Wind a bunch of wraps then pull on it so it tightens up the coil then pinch it tight again and repeat as many times as it takes.
The factory new spring retainer is a piece of steel shaped like a C which keeps it tight in a package and makes then easy to install. You can make one out of a 1/8" sliver of 2 inch pipe. I think even PVC pipe would work.
Wind the spring by hand, then let it uncoil into the C shaped retainer. That way it can easily be placed into the recoil housing. Then the retainer is removed while holding the spring down in the housing with your thumb. Let it uncoil slowly in the housing until it's tight
Thanks I am blind can't see pictures so I gather when you say spcer you are talking the round pieces that have the hole in the middle then the last one is the piece that has small holes then you put the muffler?
Sorry, I did post a pic of the pieces.
You should have a 3 piece muffler now so the piece in the center is the spacer and they can be stacked as many as you want
Thanks and when you put the ohlsson mufflers you put the spacers that have smaller holes between each muffler? Some of the spacers I have have a hole in the middle also
There's one cap that has the face with the little holes and the rest are the spacers with bent tab holes at the bottom. You can stack as many as you want but you'll need to make a threaded rod piece for whatever length you stack them to retain it. You can typically find longer screws at the hardware store and just bend the end like the one that;s on there now. Pretty sure the thread size is #6
It took the small muffler and I am just running it not for camping. I am going to try and run a battery charger with it.
The 2 small posts are already 12v DC. They were mostly used to run the 12v electric starters for RC stuff but it should also work to charge 12v batteries as well.
Those small mufflers can be stacked but finding them at a reasonable cost may be difficult. Lots go missing because people take them off and don't put them back so everyone is always looking for mufflers and air cleaners.
I had original muffler on it stil very loud so I will look for another.
Yours is a model 350? Like pictured above? That style is quieter than a 300 is.
The 300 just used the common little black mufflers/spark arrester.
Are you using that for camping or something? Like the outboards do, if you run a metal hose from it into a bucket of water all you will hear is water bubbling so maybe you could experiment with that????
I modified the muffler pipe on a tiger tiger and screwed a briggs stratton small muffler but it is still noisey. Is there a quieter muffler I can adapt thanks.
The Tiny Tiger model 350 used a different style muffler. Or search on epay for 2 stroke muffler and maybe adapt one.
Hello Wallfish, Any luck finding a needle valve assembly.
Found a housing and a needle ( #21, 25 ) but not the little parts, washer, o ring or spring ( 22, 23, 24 ). You can get those at any good hardware store or find something online
Did you ever open the carb to make sure the other parts are there? Someone lost the valve so you should check EVERYTHING to make sure you don't need anything else.
You can do everything else on your engine like cleaning the points if it doesn't have spark now, fix the recoil (DO NOT DRILL OUT THE RIVET), etc etc. Fire it up with a squirt of 32:1 mixed fuel to verify it's a running engine. And you can also check the generator when it fires off too. If it doesn't run or generate power, does taking my last valve make sense? Your welcome to it if you need it!
Some of the older engines had a smaller needle valve on the side of the carb and a screw which holds the diaphragm assembly to the lower carb body. Newer models have the the needle holding the diaphragm assembly to the carb body.
Maybe a pic would help determine what carb you have and what you're missing.
I'm still working with cleaning this up and made it to the clutch which everything in the gearbox is a dried up sticky mess. I was working the clutch butterflies back and forth and the two pieces of spring steel flew out. Is this clutch repairable now or have I ruined it? I don't know how they were in there
The springs can go in and out so they just need to be set back in place as long as they aren't broken. I don't remember ever seeing a distinct clutch assembly drawing but there may be one on here somewhere, I just couldn't find one. There are a couple of different clutch setups so not knowing exactly what you are working with makes any details or advice difficult. How about posting a picture of it?
I have a Tiny Tiger Model 300 with a Ohlsson & Rice engine. When reassembling the carburetor we broke the needle valve housing. Does anyone know where I might find one? Thank you!
Think I can find a spare.
Where are from?
Do not use a wrench to tighten them and they don't need to be very tight either.
The wire should go to a kill switch button on the handle to shut down the engine by grounding the coil. Location of the switch depends on the model.
One port is an air vent. It goes from the bottom of the tank to just inside of the fuel cap. The other port is the fuel feed to the carb.
More than likely it will need a new carb diaphragm to run or run correctly. Check the air filter BEFORE trying to start it. If it has that old crusty material inside, it will need to be thoroughly cleaned out. Otherwise it will be sucked into the engine. Not good.
If you use the search feature you can find other threads on the Drillgine drills.
Here's a link to the search results for "Drillgine" in topics only. There are threads on the early reds and later yellows
Tiny Tiger Problem
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
Carefully check where that wire was repaired. It's difficult to open that crusty stuff up without cracking more but just go slow. Solder with a solder gun and not a torch
Check the other wires too as once you open it up and move them the insulation cracks easy.