Yeah, not too bad considering.
I was thinking about brazing as well, I just don’t have much in the way of experience. I’m going to have to break down one of these days and learn to weld and get a unit.
Brazing is kind of like soldering, just hotter. It doesn't flow as thin as solder but you can move it around with the heat. Those little torches would work good for stubborn rusty nut and bolt removal too.
MIG welding makes things pretty easy and it's not crazy expensive with a small 110v welder using flux core wire to get started.
Plenty of instruction videos online for both to get inspired. You're never too old to learn a new skill and you should be able to find more uses for either one beyond this handle fix.
Just throwing it out there. You can get a small mapp oxy torch for about $100 and braze it. They might even get hot enough to gas weld with steel. We used metal coat hangers for the welding rods back in the day.
Can you add a photo of the switch? My drill didn’t have any sort of wiring attached. I’m assuming the trigger on the handle is just for a kill switch and not a throttle, is that correct?
Think the 50:1 premix will work without wrecking anything or should I play it safe and mix my own?
Add some oil to get about 32:1 but don't use outboard oil. It's different than air cooled oil. Something with the ash and ashless and etc. Always best to run heavier on oil than lean. Haven't fouled a plug yet at 32:1 so...
Even at 32:1 you have 1/2 the amount of oil. 50:1 is way to lean on oil for these IMO. It might work but you should know if it doesn't by the bottom of the first tank full.
Best to give it a rip and get it all running BEFORE paint. You may need to remove the cover a couple times and noth'n suck worse than scratching up new paint. $0.02
1st question --Assuming you installed a new diaphragm so could be. So start with about a 3/4 -1 turn on out the needle. Use the primer button to keep it running while adjusting if it's stopping because of fuel starvation.
Leaking case seals can affect the vacuum pulse pressure the diaphragm uses for the pressure to pump fuel.
2nd question. Not a big deal. The ports are ONLY there to allow fuel to fill up into the raised hump opposite the fuel fill. Without it, an air bubble would stop the fuel from entering that portion of the tank. The fuel line simply connects the 2 ports so fuel doesn't spill out
You can fold and crimp the edges closed too in order to bend it but still need the plate welded on.
Circumference of a 10" circle is about 31 1/2 inches and most places sell tube at 36 inches. Good tight crimps on the ends and you can fill it with water which is much easier to empty out.
And just another little tid bit. Connecting car batteries in series does work for arc/stick welding. I have a real welder but curiosity got the best of me so had to try it. Not the most safe thing I guess but danger is my middle name! LoL
I used 3 batteries but thinking 2 would work with a small thin rod
On the exhaust I put the rubber gaskets on like you said with the curve part toward the exhaust manifold then there is a bigger metal ring and I put it on the cylinder with the curve down to match the gasket then do you put the 2 smaller metal ring gaskets on then the o ring?
All of those metal rings go on after the gaskets.
The last thing to go on is the O ring which seals the connection of the case and the head. The rest seals the manifold and the head
On 12/22/2022 at 10:24 PM, tvenetis said:
I get my water pump running but when I shut it off gas is going in to the carburetor. I put new diaphragm in it also. I noticed that the ball is not stopping the fuel so I have to try to figure it out a friend put it together wrong.
Yup, that check valve bearing should stop gas flow. Something is wrong
If you have a welder get a longer tube than needed. Weld one end shut and fill the tube with sand then pack it in there. Now weld the open end closed. Now it will bend without crushing or distorting. Cut the ends off and you can remove the sand. Just throwing stuff out there again to see what sticks.
Any guesses on why my carb won't prime? I've tried the build with and without the large diaphragm's gasket (2 came in the ebay kit). I've tried with a half turn and with a turn and a half of the needle. It just doesn't want to pull vacuum
Try connecting fuel line to the tank port that goes to the carb. With fuel 1/2 filled in the tank it should bubble air when you blow into it. Need to verify it's connected to the correct port and that complete fuel line is open and not clogged
If it bubbles try directly priming fuel into the carb or pour some in the plug hole so it starts. Watch the fuel line to see if it pulls fuel up now because it's running. <ight need to repeat a couple times
Is there a parts list with numbers I can get for the ohlsson tinuy tiger and other compack engines?I found a o & r seal PN 400310 someone had is that a crank shaft seal?
There's a whole section on manuals here in the manual section for IPLs
Install the gaskets and manifold onto the cylinder head. The rubber type gaskets are 2 different sizes. The one with the larger inside diameter hole goes on the cylinder first. Then manifold, then 2nd gasket, then metal rings, then O ring. Tightened it by hand using a rag for grip, use a tool to get it tighter if needed. Turning the manifold with the cylinder at the same time will get it close to tight
That's a great reference for people to watch before working on their TTs. Lots of useful info! Thanks for posting it
Although there were a couple things -- like being more careful with the recoil housing paint. Separate the generator with a piece of wood or something softer than a screwdriver. The two pieces of the generator should be removed together.
Let me know if you need a diaphragm and or a little plastic check valve. Or there's a guy on ebay that sells them and thing he has some gaskets with it too. There should be 2 gaskets that go between the carb and the engine
Missing the most common stuff that people don't put back on. Air filter and then the air baffles. There should also be a rubber cap cover on the spark plug.
Air filter- keep looking on ebay but they go quickly because many are missing
The plug cap cover can be made using a product called Plasti-Dip
I can search my parts to see if there's an extra air baffle/shroud
you will need a new diaphragm for the carb and to give the carb a good thorough cleaning. See the carb tutorial thread.
The sections should all fit together just like the original 3 sections do. Some manufacturers even stacked sections from the factory for different reasons so they do stack. Or at least should stack and not be a problem. Make sure they are all lined up. They will distort and deviate and slide if that nut is over tightened to hold them
It won't start, the engine spins freely. I added some carb cleaner to the air inlet and had it running for a few secs but it didn't pull any fuel in. So I'm guessing the gasket which is a little warped is likely not sealing where it should...? I'll go through the tutorials and see if I missed something, thanks for posting them.
It looks like you might sell the gaskets, do you still have them?
Which gaskets are you referring to? The orange pieces that get installed between the carb and the engine?
Don't run on carb cleaner or any spray stuff. Use some of the oil mixed fuel. Spray stuff doesn't have any lubrication and that's just like running a 4 stroke engine with no oil in it.
-First thing to check is the carb. Use a piece of clean fuel line connected to the fuel inlet on the carb. You should not be able to blow air into it unless you push the primer button. Same for suction. If it's leaking there's a problem as the little bearing ball is not sealing the hole. That ball check valves the fuel flow so it only flows in one direction. With leaks, it will just allow fuel to go back and forth and therefore not feed to the carb. If it leaks then you need to clean and follow the carb tutorial to get it to seal. Maybe change the bearing. there were 2 sizes 1/16 and 3/32. Old school local hardware stores may still have some in the "Hillman" drawers
-There must be a pliable diaphragm. These small little engines don't produce a lot of pressure and vacuum pulse which is how the diaphragm pulses to actually pump fuel. A stiff diaphragm will not quiver enough from the low pressure/vacuum pulse from the case and therefore not pump fuel or enough fuel if it is stiff.
-There should be a small plastic flap check valve installed in between the top diaphragm housing and the bottom carb body. it goes on top of that gasket. The flap covers that small fuel passage hole and also is a check valve to keep fuel only flowing in one direction
-Check the screen in the hole of the lower carb body for debris. There was service bulletin to remove those screens if they're present but I typically clean and leave them in there.
-Pretty rare to have one of those thick orange gaskets be a problem but funny things happen when people mess with them and don't install them right. There should be 2 between the carb and engine. One side of each should be flat because that's how they mated and the other sides will have the circle indentations form the holes of the carb and engine. They appear the same and originally they were until they were squeezed by installation pressure. Take a close look at them and try to mate them to their original positions. I don't have any new orange gaskets but member @CNew Clint might still have some.
Hey Wallfish did you ever create the engine assembly thread? I just picked up one of the Tiny Tiger 300's, I've taken apart the engine and carb and reassembled and I still can't get it to turn over. I'm wondering what I did wrong.
Does the carb prime with the button? Mine does not. The carb gasket could also be a little loose on my setup.
Different people call things different. To me, not turning over means the engine will not spin.
Yes, the primer button should move fuel into the carb. There's lots of reasons why it wouldn't but a new diaphragm will help. Go through this carb tutorial post too
Do you mean it will not start or it will not turn over
I was wondering John if will the mustang ohlsson chain saw flywheel fit a tiny tiger engine?
Yes. There was a change somewhere along the line for the starter pawls though.
Mufflers are typically 3 pieces. Adding center sections need no adapters but you're right, the bolt/hook needs to be longer as well. Not sure how many of those center sections it would take to make a difference
No I did not, but I will try both of your suggestions.
Yes, clean the post and the copper points spring for that connection. All wire connections too. It's not common for a coil to fail unless damaged but it's possible. Condenser is a possibility.
I also tap the nut on the shaft to remove flywheels
Petro Chug-A-Drill
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
Brazing is kind of like soldering, just hotter. It doesn't flow as thin as solder but you can move it around with the heat. Those little torches would work good for stubborn rusty nut and bolt removal too.
MIG welding makes things pretty easy and it's not crazy expensive with a small 110v welder using flux core wire to get started.
Plenty of instruction videos online for both to get inspired. You're never too old to learn a new skill and you should be able to find more uses for either one beyond this handle fix.