Wallfish

I guess now I need to try to find one of these with an O&R for my wifes collection.

Courtesy of 10242130
 
Here is a Brochure picture of a Little Petro minibike.It was made in the early to mid 60's by Odom Manufacturing.This is the same company that made the Petro Powered Products Drill that is on this site along with quite a few other Ohllson & Rice powered tools.Jim Odom also Produced the Comet C Saw for Comet.I will be putting pictures of my Little Petro bikes on this site soon,I need to crop them all as the file size's are too big . Only about 12 of these bikes have been located to date,quite a rare bike.
 
This particular Brochure shows the bike with a TAS engine,but early on,they used the Olhsson & Rice.

With O&R

I think she is up to 21 or 22 now. 

I never checked if the dc was working. When I put the 2 probles of the meter in the plug socket and put it on continuity it beeped indication of a short.

That old epoxy is always cracked and brittle so moving the wires can expose the copper wire and cause a "short". Maybe use a meter to confirm the windings are not shorted to each other. 
Have someone look at this wiring pic for you. It's an open generator with the wiring

No slack at all. the "epoxy" or whatever it is holds and isolates the winding wires. You can pick it out carefully and solder the wire back but be sure to cover it again. Something like liquid electrical tape should work. 

I've received them shipped both ways. Full unit in a large box and partially disassembled to fit in a smaller box. Never shipped one of those but i have broken down large tools and shipped in a smaller box.
I

I just use my fingers. Wind a bunch of wraps then pull on it so it tightens up the coil then pinch it tight again and repeat as many times as it takes.
The factory new spring retainer is a piece of steel shaped like a C which keeps it tight in a package  and makes then easy to install.  You can make one out of a 1/8" sliver of 2 inch pipe. I think even PVC pipe would work. 
Wind the spring by hand, then let it uncoil into the C shaped retainer. That way it can easily be placed into the recoil housing. Then the retainer is removed while holding the spring down in the housing with your thumb. Let it uncoil slowly in the housing until it's tight

Sorry, I did post a pic of the pieces.
You should have a 3 piece muffler now so the piece in the center is the spacer and they can be stacked as many as you want

There's one cap that has the face with the little holes and the rest are the spacers with bent tab holes at the bottom. You can stack as many as you want but you'll need to make a threaded rod piece for whatever length you stack them to retain it. You can typically find longer screws at the hardware store and just bend the end like the one that;s on there now. Pretty sure the thread size is #6  

Tiny Tiger Generator Operating Instructions Models 5001-1 & 5001-2-1.pdf

I will have to check it out and see if it says on it what it is.  Thanks for the information. We went to Rough & Tumble two weeks ago and she got a couple more O&R's I will make a new post for them.

That's a nice find. Cool little generators
It's either a Dyna-Mite or a Life sav r
 

Here is the newest addition to her O&R collection. It has a 12VDC port, a 120VDC, and a 120VAC outlet. We bought this from a friend.
 
 

Very cool, great addition to the collection. I was just thinking the other day that things have been a little quiet on here for O&R finds. I’m certainly not having a lot of luck finding any these days. Glad you landed that little generator!

I repaired the recoil, cleaned and gapped the points, repaired the spark plug wire and put a little gas in the carb and it fired right up. I forgot to plug in a drop light but I will tomorrow as I ran out of time. I will need a diaphragm carb kit, its stiff and dried out. B ut all the parts are there. Except of course the main jet.I don't think I need a reed valve.

The springs can go in and out so they just need to be set back in place as long as they aren't broken. I don't remember ever seeing a distinct clutch assembly drawing but there may be one on here somewhere, I just couldn't find one. There are a couple of different clutch setups so not knowing exactly what you are working with makes any details or advice difficult. How about posting a picture of it?

The wire should go to a kill switch button on the handle to shut down the engine by grounding the coil. Location of the switch depends on the model.
One port is an air vent. It goes from the bottom of the tank to just inside of the fuel cap. The other port is the fuel feed to the carb.
More than likely it will need a new carb diaphragm to run or run correctly. Check the air filter BEFORE trying to start it. If it has that old crusty material inside, it will need to be thoroughly cleaned out. Otherwise it will be sucked into the engine. Not good.
 
If you use the search feature you can find other threads on the Drillgine drills.
Here's a link to the search results for "Drillgine" in topics only. There are threads on the early reds and later yellows
https://myoldmachine.com/search/?q=drillgine&quick=1&type=forums_topic

Re use them if possible. I've reused many without issue if they were not damaged
If they were damaged, search "High Temp gasket material" to cut your own. The O ring isn't anything special and can be found with a search for that size as well

Hi Wilf,

Have sent you a PM. 
 
regards
Paul.

Hi I have just acquired a Q&R 1hp engine with a tarpen flex workhead i am very interested in the chain saw attachment.
I'm based in north Somerset Nr Bristol.

RPM at full throttle is 6300 So yeah, they scream a little bit
Governor is never "guaranteed" but they seem to work very well. I've never had one fail while the engine is running. It's controlled by the spring on the bottom of the carb.  No adjustments are available on those older versions. Newer ones have a lever that can adjust tension on the spring
Diaphragm should be soft and pliable for best results. Wrinkles indicate it's probably old and stiff.
 

I'm back!!!
 
I have had a busy summer, and i am finally getting around to posting this.
I have replaced the crusty old spark plug insulation (2 layers of shrink tubing)

Also, I had problems with fuel system, so I properly modified it. (maybe epoxy isn't proper I guess)

Also, because  I have access to a mill, I can make a compex shape for a motor mount.


 
I also have one question. 
Is the air vane governor guaranteed to work?
I say this because I had it running today, and it sounded like it was trying to go pretty fast (maybe hitting 2000rpm) 
Now, I know that these engines can hit around 5000rpm idle, I just didn't have my tach hooked up at the moment, and I didn't want to risk any damage.
Can I just start it up and then walk away expecting the governor to work first time without any tweaking?
 
Also, should my carburetor diaphragm be kind-of wrinkly? I believe it is the original diaphragm and it has not been replaced.
 
Thanks

Those Tarpen tools are definitely cool and they look very well built.  I'd like to find some for my collection but doubt there are very many out there.