WH Electro 16 conversion, slow progress, now even slower.

[Robins 55]

Well some of you know i've managed to get a Magnum 16 engine for my WH Electro 12 to create an Electro 16  Had the engine for a while but been putting off fitting it due to needing to use the tractor.

Although, more and more problems seem to be appearing the closer i get to fitting it

 

Firstly i found the crank on these newer engines are 1/8" smaller so my pulley wouldnt fit. So found an adapter to remedy this

 

Then today i had a few hours spare and set about tidying things up, removing the threaded exhaust system (what a pain the rear end that was!) in favour of a bolt on flange type, setting valve clearances and ignition module gap ect. Made a new sump gasket and cleaned the sump out.

 

Decided the carb will probably need a clean, and found this  :

 

One of the jet screws is seized solid and the rust in the bowl is very bad. Not happy as this was meant to be a good complete engine practically ready to fit

 

Question is, do i put this on hold till i can justify buying a new carb at £135, or try and find a new Walbro bowl and hope i can free up the rest and get a rebuild kit? Who knows but ive given up for today. Im just glad i didnt rush in and dismantle my tractor before checking this engine was good to use first

[Vinnetrow 129]

That is a lot of bad luck there  

A friend of ours had a Kohler k181 with a cracked carb. It now runs with a Mikuni carb from a motorcycle. He brought the carb from an autojumble for a fiver . Runs as sweet as a nut, but perhaps doesn't look the part   

[meadowfield 1,900]

Ouch, that's had a lot of water in it... I missed out on a magnum 16 months ago. Wonder if it's the one I bid on? I did pick up another a month later which is supposed to be a runner. All I've done so far is put a pulley from a Briggs on.

I'd look at soaking it in something that will eat the rust, but not the alloy casting. Maybe vinegar?

[ranger 373]

Hi

 Iv'e got a scrap Magnum 18hp twin, I don't know if the carb would be of any use to you for parts.

Doug.

[Robins 55]

Yes a lot of water! im lucky really it didn't go in the engine, which looks dry and rust free inside the inlet and exhaust chambers. I will stick it in something to soak tomorrow, but think the bowl is definitely shot. It came from a friend who's had it a while, not been on ebay.

 

Doug, thank you, could you have a look and see if your carb is a Walbro please, it will be written on the outside. If it is and has a good bowl i'll buy it from you just for that and hopefully build one good one out the two   

 

It's a shame really as theres no play in the main throttle shaft

[ranger 373]

It's a Walbro #52

[Ian 2,417]

If the carb bowl is the same size as most other Kohler carbs then I have a few spare bowls if you need one.

[Robins 55]

Thanks Ian, but the walbro has a slightly larger bowl and a tiny lip on the top as the rubber seal is different. 

Doug, a pm is on its way to you

[Ian 2,417]

It's more than worth the effort to get the engine sorted, the M16's are great sounding strong engines

[Anglo Traction 1,016]

Glad to see you checked it out first, before trying to push fuel through it to start it up .

Good of Ranger to offer the #52 Carb.

Just be aware that you actually need a Walbro #60 or possibly #64  for a 16 K' Mag, the venturi being slightly larger.

It'll probably work ok, but you will probably find it will 'Hunt' erratically on top RPM.

Will be advisable to peg it at 3100rpm (fixed jet) with a clean/new Air Filter, it will also 'lean out' and run hotter than usual.

Depending if both your original Walbro Carb and Ranger's are the older type with adjustable Main High speed fuel mixture needles or the later Eco Non adjustable Fixed Jet types.

The early adjustable ones are worth repairing if there is no Body metal/ Venturi Corrosion, as there are quality parts fitted originally and wear rate is low.

As for your original Carb, I've seen worse and cleaned up. If you can post the Numbers off the Carb and your Engine serial number, I'll do some checking for you.

As you probably know, the white powder is Alloy corrosion where Galvanic corrosion has occurred, so there will be a lot of metal pitting there after cleaning.

If not in a vital place like a sealing face, bore hole or thread, then it may ok.

Vinegar, as Mark has mentioned, should be ok for a start, but neutralise it completely after treatment and then soak the whole Carb in a mixture of Cellulose/Acetone Thinner and Diesel (or old Redex etc) for as long as you can (remove all the plastic bits and Viton ring seals etc first).

Full, Genuine Service repair Kits are available for about £17-18.00.