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large hole in thick steel help.

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Hi All, 

Not really sure which section to put this under?

 

I need to drill at least two, 34mm holes in some 20mm thick steel. How would you guys do it? My initial thought is hole saw, but 20mm thick steel, would a hole saw really last long enough!  

 

cheers, Daniel

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What brand do you use of hole saw Mark? I really thought the teeth would fall off before getting through 20mm of steel. 

 

Its an attachment for my digger :)

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Yes definitely can be cut using a decent brand of holesaw, try to use a drill with a slow to medium speed and plenty of cutting fluid (WD40 would do). The brand that we used to get for such jobs was Starrett and the largest hole that we cut was 4 inches diameter through 2 inch plate.

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Starret and sandvik are the main ones I use, but the cheap screwfix and erbauer ones work just as well. I even use them in the lathe as by the time you've drilled a hole and bored it, the sawvhas done the job....

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Hi

I have been drilling 30mm holes through 25mm thick plate at work today and we use a heavy duty arbour in a pillar drill . The bits are held in with two grub screws and they have teeth like a hole saw but are fluted, in the centre of this there is a pin which picks up on a centre dot and at the other end in the arbour is a spring loaded ball bearing so when the bit goes through this activates the spring to push the wasted  drilled bit off. They are made by rotobore and are, and we use a lot in magnetic drills for drilling rafters and such on buildings in sitchu

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Of course we never mentioned, rotobroach drill bits in a mag drill are the quickest and cleanest way.

Just more expensive, I really ought to consider one.... They also oil the cutter too :)

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Yes Mag Base Drill and Roto Broach type drills are very good but as you say the MagDrill is the expensive bit. I have not been involved in the hire of tools for a few years now but I do remember that some tool hire companies used to have them available.

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A holesaw worked wonderful, i needed two 51mm holes in 20mm plate in the end as i decided to use a piece of thick tube as a sort of bushing to spread the load. I melted a Bosch drill in the process and the Makita drill is not sounding quite as fresh as it did, but the hole saw has all its teeth and still sharp which i was surprised so i drilled a further two 51mm holes in some 6mm thick angle for a brace the other side aswell. 

 

15689360841_12fb577a92.jpg  15691272235_3e18cac579.jpg

54mm hole in 20mm plate.

 

15071891023_dcf72801c6.jpg   

I'm adapting a forklift frame to fit my MF50b digger so i can move pallets of bricks, bulk bags of sand ect.

 

15667506186_fdd5789eee.jpg

with much welding and lots of thick bits of steel i have achieved what i set out to do. Only been putting this off for nearly 3 years. Holding the frame to the front bucket with a ratchet strap always seemed the easier option :P

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When I use a holesaw I change the pilot drill to a length of 1/4" silver steel,especially for thinner material, it keeps the holesaw running true otherwise the flutes in the drill cause the saw to run out of true. the correct drill for a holesaw has a flute length that ends before the saw starts cutting,but they have usually been replaced at some time or other

doug.

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