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K.C. Wiggins Champ & Regina Champ Generators

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Here is my K.C. Wiggins Champ Series 75 that I restored earlier this year, this is a 230V output version of the Champ generator made in Potters Hill, Felton, near Bristol.

 

Be aware that forcing incorrect two pin plugs into these generators may break the plastic part of the sockets, resulting in the socket falling inside. I have seen several of these generators sold on ebay this year with broken sockets.

 

I'm not sure what plug was supplied with these when new, but all my UK two pin plugs have a pin spacing that is too wide, I ended up modifying one with a Dremel to fit without causing damage.

 

David

 

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Edited by factory

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I restored this Regina Champ generator earlier this year, it also has a 230V output and was made by Regina Electric Products Limited in London.

 

David

 

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The Amp Champ, which has the same alternator (but 110V) has a maximum output of 350W, these should be the same. Overloading them will result in the alternator windings burning out. I usually run them with a lower load, of 150W to 200W.

The K.C. Wiggins version has fuses to protect from this, but doesn't indicate what value of fuses should be fitted. I put a 1.5A fuse in the 230V output.

 

David

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Welcome to MoM

Glad to see you made it over hear too David

Thanks for sharing these.

I bookmarked the forum a few weeks ago after googling 'Kemm trimmer' as I have just bought one. Will post some pictures of it later in the week.

 

Here is a picture of the connector panel on the other Regina Champ I have, the rest of it is the same as the other one except it is a Model 110 & the details are decals instead of the sticker on the other.

 

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And another one I don't own, a new unused Model 114 12V/24V version, which made over £300 on ebay in 2013.

 

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David

Edited by factory

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I'm new to this forum, so I just hope I'm posting in the right place.  I have inherited a Regina Champ, and I'm told it needs a new diaphragm.  Spares are reported to be unavailable, but perhaps you experts can offer some hope for this piece of 1960's kit.  As far as I can tell, electrical parts are in good order.

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Carb diaphragms are available from Webhead on here, or he sells them on ebay here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111536850612

 

Have a look at the carb repair thread for instructions here http://myoldmachine.com/topic/1448-o-r-carb-repair-tutorial/

 

Don't forget to remove at traces of the original air filter foam, which always crumbles to bits. If an engine is run without removing the filter foam, it would get sucked into the engine and a complete engine strip down, clean & rebuild would be needed.

 

Both Webhead & Wallfish on here have spares for these engines should anything be missing or damaged.

 

David

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Very helpful, very quick: I'm impressed.  I shall follow the links.  It looks a scarily fiddly job: I might go back to my engineering mentor first - though since he does oil-rigs his fingers may not be any better than mine.

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I never realised there were so many variations on the same machine. Here are the out puts on my Champ. I don't yet know what the two brass terminals are for as they just say Output?? Or how to wire up my connections.

 

Chas

IMG_0022.JPG

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Apparently there are five different versions that were offered by Regina Electric Products Ltd. of North Acton Road, Harlesden, London, NW10.

I don't know if there any other versions of the KC Wiggins one, I haven't seen another since I bought mine.

The UK versions are based on the US made Varo Amp Champ, which can be found in this thread:

 

The standard models made by Regina are;

H110, 230V AC/DC & 12V DC outputs,

H111, 230V AC/DC & 24V DC outputs,

H112, 115V AC/DC & 12V DC outputs,

H113, 115V AC/DC & 24V DC outputs,

The mains voltage outputs are rated at 350W for AC & 300W for DC, the low voltage DC output is rated at 150W.

 

The model H114 is a combined 12V/24V DC unit for battery charging and is rated at 250W.

 

I have a photocopy of the Regina instructions, it doesn't give any clues to how to wire up the model H114, but given that the middle terminals are the output, it must have had a removable link plug to select either 12V or 24V. Did yours come with any connectors or cables?

 

David

 

 

 

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Hi,

As requested. Pictures of my leads I got with my Model 114. Still have no idea  regarding the significance of the two central brass

terminals. Once I get her re-running, I'll get a meter on all 3 pairs of terminals.

 

Regards

 

Chas

IMG_0007.JPG

IMG_0240.JPG

IMG_0241.JPG

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Very neat unit!  The decal saying to "Use only Uni-Pak Silicone Oil" is very interesting to me.  I never knew that silicone oils were appropriate for 2-cycle engine use.  I wonder what the benefit was of silicone oil in this application?

 

thanks,

ben

 

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If I had to take a guess you link out the required set of contacts 12 or 24v with the white plug and the output is from the brass connections?

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1 hour ago, Rocboni said:

If I had to take a guess you link out the required set of contacts 12 or 24v with the white plug and the output is from the brass connections?

I agree. The ground (-) is always the ground and the white plug links the + of which ever voltage it's plugged into to the brass + output terminal.

Just a guess too but a meter will certainly confirm it.

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On 6/18/2016 at 5:34 PM, RC Modeller said:

Hi,

As requested. Pictures of my leads I got with my Model 114. Still have no idea  regarding the significance of the two central brass

terminals. Once I get her re-running, I'll get a meter on all 3 pairs of terminals.

 

Regards

 

Chas

 

Thanks for posting the pictures of the leads and link plug, from the manual I posted in post 14, the brass terminals are always the battery charging output on all the Regina Champ versions.

Regina Champ Petrol Engine Driven Alternator Page 2.jpg

Measuring the brass output terminals with a voltmeter (with the plug in each position and no load connected) will confirm the plug does select between 12V & 24V, the voltage measured may be a little higher with no load connected.

I don't recommend the method in the manual for checking the polarity of the battery, using a voltmeter is a much better idea.

 

Don't forget to change the air filter foam, as it will crumble to dust even though it's new/unused and get sucked into the engine.

 

I have quite a few different plugs that look similar to the white plug that came with yours, the pin spacing is not always the same on them and forcing an incorrect one in will break the socket, the picture below shows a broken socket removed from a Champ that I restored.

SAM_5722e.jpg

 

David

 

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On 6/27/2016 at 4:12 PM, kd5byb said:

Very neat unit!  The decal saying to "Use only Uni-Pak Silicone Oil" is very interesting to me.  I never knew that silicone oils were appropriate for 2-cycle engine use.  I wonder what the benefit was of silicone oil in this application?

 

thanks,

ben

 

I've no idea how good they are in 2 stroke engines, Uni-Pak Silicone Oil looks to have been discounted years ago as I can't find any info on it. There is a Unipak (may not be the same company) in Denmark making lubricants, but nothing for 2 stroke engines.

 

David

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I have one of these up for sale if anyone's interested:

 

https://myoldmachine.com/topic/6490-kc-wiggins-champ-series-75-model-230-12-generator/

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