factory 487 #1 Posted November 22, 2014 (edited) Here is my K.C. Wiggins Champ Series 75 that I restored earlier this year, this is a 230V output version of the Champ generator made in Potters Hill, Felton, near Bristol. Be aware that forcing incorrect two pin plugs into these generators may break the plastic part of the sockets, resulting in the socket falling inside. I have seen several of these generators sold on ebay this year with broken sockets. I'm not sure what plug was supplied with these when new, but all my UK two pin plugs have a pin spacing that is too wide, I ended up modifying one with a Dremel to fit without causing damage. David Edited November 22, 2014 by factory 1 CNew reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #2 Posted November 22, 2014 I restored this Regina Champ generator earlier this year, it also has a 230V output and was made by Regina Electric Products Limited in London. David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 698 #3 Posted November 23, 2014 Welcome to MoM Glad to see you made it over hear too David Thanks for sharing these. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
diggerjames 543 #4 Posted November 23, 2014 Hi David Welcome to MOM what sort power outputs do yo get in I assume around 500 watts ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #5 Posted November 23, 2014 The Amp Champ, which has the same alternator (but 110V) has a maximum output of 350W, these should be the same. Overloading them will result in the alternator windings burning out. I usually run them with a lower load, of 150W to 200W. The K.C. Wiggins version has fuses to protect from this, but doesn't indicate what value of fuses should be fitted. I put a 1.5A fuse in the 230V output. David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmackellow 2,738 #6 Posted November 23, 2014 They are nice, here's mine, waiting for the pull start to be sorted out... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #7 Posted November 23, 2014 (edited) Welcome to MoM Glad to see you made it over hear too David Thanks for sharing these. I bookmarked the forum a few weeks ago after googling 'Kemm trimmer' as I have just bought one. Will post some pictures of it later in the week. Here is a picture of the connector panel on the other Regina Champ I have, the rest of it is the same as the other one except it is a Model 110 & the details are decals instead of the sticker on the other. And another one I don't own, a new unused Model 114 12V/24V version, which made over £300 on ebay in 2013. David Edited November 23, 2014 by factory Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pmackellow 2,738 #8 Posted November 23, 2014 Here's the panel on my Champ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsl 0 #9 Posted January 4, 2015 I'm new to this forum, so I just hope I'm posting in the right place. I have inherited a Regina Champ, and I'm told it needs a new diaphragm. Spares are reported to be unavailable, but perhaps you experts can offer some hope for this piece of 1960's kit. As far as I can tell, electrical parts are in good order. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #10 Posted January 4, 2015 Carb diaphragms are available from Webhead on here, or he sells them on ebay here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111536850612 Have a look at the carb repair thread for instructions here http://myoldmachine.com/topic/1448-o-r-carb-repair-tutorial/ Don't forget to remove at traces of the original air filter foam, which always crumbles to bits. If an engine is run without removing the filter foam, it would get sucked into the engine and a complete engine strip down, clean & rebuild would be needed. Both Webhead & Wallfish on here have spares for these engines should anything be missing or damaged. David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsl 0 #11 Posted January 4, 2015 Very helpful, very quick: I'm impressed. I shall follow the links. It looks a scarily fiddly job: I might go back to my engineering mentor first - though since he does oil-rigs his fingers may not be any better than mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RC Modeller 3 #12 Posted June 10, 2016 I never realised there were so many variations on the same machine. Here are the out puts on my Champ. I don't yet know what the two brass terminals are for as they just say Output?? Or how to wire up my connections. Chas Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #13 Posted June 10, 2016 Apparently there are five different versions that were offered by Regina Electric Products Ltd. of North Acton Road, Harlesden, London, NW10. I don't know if there any other versions of the KC Wiggins one, I haven't seen another since I bought mine. The UK versions are based on the US made Varo Amp Champ, which can be found in this thread: The standard models made by Regina are; H110, 230V AC/DC & 12V DC outputs, H111, 230V AC/DC & 24V DC outputs, H112, 115V AC/DC & 12V DC outputs, H113, 115V AC/DC & 24V DC outputs, The mains voltage outputs are rated at 350W for AC & 300W for DC, the low voltage DC output is rated at 150W. The model H114 is a combined 12V/24V DC unit for battery charging and is rated at 250W. I have a photocopy of the Regina instructions, it doesn't give any clues to how to wire up the model H114, but given that the middle terminals are the output, it must have had a removable link plug to select either 12V or 24V. Did yours come with any connectors or cables? David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #14 Posted June 11, 2016 I've scanned the instructions for the Regina Champ, the quality isn't great as it's a photocopy, had to a bit editing to clean it up. The original page size is approx 5.7 x 9.4 inches. Regina Champ Petrol Engine Driven Alternator.pdf David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RC Modeller 3 #15 Posted June 18, 2016 Hi, As requested. Pictures of my leads I got with my Model 114. Still have no idea regarding the significance of the two central brass terminals. Once I get her re-running, I'll get a meter on all 3 pairs of terminals. Regards Chas Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kd5byb 3 #16 Posted June 27, 2016 Very neat unit! The decal saying to "Use only Uni-Pak Silicone Oil" is very interesting to me. I never knew that silicone oils were appropriate for 2-cycle engine use. I wonder what the benefit was of silicone oil in this application? thanks, ben Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rocboni 257 #17 Posted June 27, 2016 If I had to take a guess you link out the required set of contacts 12 or 24v with the white plug and the output is from the brass connections? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wallfish 698 #18 Posted June 27, 2016 1 hour ago, Rocboni said: If I had to take a guess you link out the required set of contacts 12 or 24v with the white plug and the output is from the brass connections? I agree. The ground (-) is always the ground and the white plug links the + of which ever voltage it's plugged into to the brass + output terminal. Just a guess too but a meter will certainly confirm it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #19 Posted June 27, 2016 On 6/18/2016 at 5:34 PM, RC Modeller said: Hi, As requested. Pictures of my leads I got with my Model 114. Still have no idea regarding the significance of the two central brass terminals. Once I get her re-running, I'll get a meter on all 3 pairs of terminals. Regards Chas Thanks for posting the pictures of the leads and link plug, from the manual I posted in post 14, the brass terminals are always the battery charging output on all the Regina Champ versions. Measuring the brass output terminals with a voltmeter (with the plug in each position and no load connected) will confirm the plug does select between 12V & 24V, the voltage measured may be a little higher with no load connected. I don't recommend the method in the manual for checking the polarity of the battery, using a voltmeter is a much better idea. Don't forget to change the air filter foam, as it will crumble to dust even though it's new/unused and get sucked into the engine. I have quite a few different plugs that look similar to the white plug that came with yours, the pin spacing is not always the same on them and forcing an incorrect one in will break the socket, the picture below shows a broken socket removed from a Champ that I restored. David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
factory 487 #20 Posted June 29, 2016 On 6/27/2016 at 4:12 PM, kd5byb said: Very neat unit! The decal saying to "Use only Uni-Pak Silicone Oil" is very interesting to me. I never knew that silicone oils were appropriate for 2-cycle engine use. I wonder what the benefit was of silicone oil in this application? thanks, ben I've no idea how good they are in 2 stroke engines, Uni-Pak Silicone Oil looks to have been discounted years ago as I can't find any info on it. There is a Unipak (may not be the same company) in Denmark making lubricants, but nothing for 2 stroke engines. David Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MarkC 1 #21 Posted June 21, 2020 I have one of these up for sale if anyone's interested: https://myoldmachine.com/topic/6490-kc-wiggins-champ-series-75-model-230-12-generator/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites