Removing a stuck main engine pulley shaft

[Steve2018 3]

Hi,  im trying to remove the main engine pulley shaft as its broken but I cant get it off,  its been on for 25 odd years so seems stuck in place.  I have the engine out but just cant get it off :-( any tips?  I could cut it off but wanted to try and save it if possible to take to a fabricator to see if it could be welded back together. 

 

My other idea if i cant get it off was this that i drew while at work do you think this will work? 

 

Or instead of that bolt going through the side,  a better idea maybe is to get a longer main shaft bolt and washer to hold it all together?

 

Forgot to mention the pipe i have to slot in is a nice tight fit

[the showman 4,074]

What engine is it Steve, ?

[Steve2018 3]

Hi,  its a Lawnflite 504 with a briggs and stratton 8hp engine

 

Thanks

[Stormin 4,458]

Can you post a photo? We will see the problem better.

 

[the showman 4,074]

Have you removed the bolt up inside the tube of the pulley, think its 9/16 AF or 5/8 AF

[Steve2018 3]

Yea i removed that bolt,  tried a puller on it but it just seems to bend the pulley thats still attached. 

 

Heres a pic thanks

[Stormin 4,458]

  You could try turning the engine upside down and pouring diesel or hydraulic oil down the tube. You'll need to leave it like that for a week or two to allow the fluid to work it's way through.

 

 Heat is another option but you could damage the shaft seal.

[meadowfield 1,900]

weld a nut into the broken shaft and screw a bolt in and then it will just wind the existing pulley off. I've never seen on seized as they rarely see any moisture - only oil!

 

good luck

[Anglo Traction 1,016]

Would be handy to establish if the Engine output shaft/Pulley unit has a parallel shaft, or tapered, with a Keyway.

Certainly Mark's suggestion will add the advantage of some heat to create a difference between the 2 components, to improve separation.     

[meadowfield 1,900]

of the dozen or so Briggs verticals I have worked on they are all 1" straight shaft with an inch long key (not half moon)

 

The flywheel end on the other hand is always a 1" tapered with short very soft key that is designed to shear when things go wrong (don't ask how I know)

[HeadExam 1,783]

I've used two oak wedges between the case and pulley and driven them off when the pulley failed to do so.

[Wristpin 400]

It is a parallel shaft with a straight key. Get two pieces of "tin" and cut a U shaped slot in both and slide them in between the sump and the pulley from opposite sides to protect the sump. In these circumstances the seal is expendable!

Find a friendly mechanic with oxy-acetylene and get the pulley and its sleeve cherry red, leave it to cool and then give it the diesel soak treatment.  It will then probably lever off with a couple of tyre levers or pry bars. Protect the sump further with some scrap steel under the heels or fulcrums of the bars.

Or use folding / fox wedges as suggested by Headexam. Perhaps someone knows why they are called Fox wedges?

Edited July 12, 2018 by Wristpin