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Stormin

C-125 needing some TLC.

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Ok Norm, I'm not the world's expert on wiring, but I got it right twice on WH rewires.,

I reckon if you have the right type of switch?,  you have a constant live supply to the Solenoid through the switch when turned on, this constantly makes your starter turn, so the wire must be on the wrong blade on the back of the switch. At least the Solenoid is working ok.

If you have no safety switches (Seat, PTO, Pedal), then the  Red wire goes from the 'S'  Blade on the back of the ignition Switch directly to the small terminal on the Solenoid.

The Ammeter is showing - (minus) amps because the constantly running starter motor is drawing the current that would normally be recharging the battery.

Check the Ammeter is correctly wired Pos & Neg though.

Looking at your pics, I see an awful lot of red wires which will be very confusing to you if someone has messed about with the colour coding.

Here is an amended diagram to reflect the absence of a primary safety switch (one left in to represent the PTO switch)-

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The 2 wires (shown dotted) from the Alternator (may be grey or purple) can be transposed on the Rectifier as the supply is AC. The output through the Orange wire to the Ign Switch is DC.

Ignition Switch is earthed through it's body and is essential for the ammeter etc to work properly. Keep at it. 

 

 

 

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Suggest that you disconnect the red wire from the solenoid terminal that points toward the rear of the tractor. Make sure that it doesn’t touch earth just in case it’s live - it shouldn’t be. Set the multimeter to volts and ensuring that the ignition switch is off with the key removed,  check for a reading - there should not be. Turn the key to On , there should still be no reading. Turn the key to Start  and there should be battery voltage. Release the key and the voltage should disappear . Go between On and Start several times and make sure that the voltage always disappears when the key is released.  If all the above are ok it is probably ok to assume that all is well. However if voltage does not disappear when the key is released I would suspect the ignition switch or a wiring fault.

Remove the earth cable from the battery and then all cables from the solenoid. Set the meter to Continuity and check between the two heavy terminals there should be no continuity. If there is it is possible that there is a mechanical fault within the solenoid but your substitution should have already eliminated that.

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  I've done as you suggested, Angus and as I already knew the red wire is passing current. But good to check. I then swapped switches with my C-125. That proved the switch is OK.

  I then had an idea. I ran a new wire from switch to solenoid. Guess what? Cured the motor running problem. Wiring fault in the harness I guess. Why didn't I think of that in the first place?

  Still showing no charge on the ammeter so I'll check the charging system again.

  These things are sent to try us. And they don't try us by halves.

 

BTW. Faulty electrics are the in thing round here. Power cut for over four hours last night and a short half hour one this morning. That makes something like seven in two months.

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1 hour ago, nigel said:

Glad it’s sorted Norm

 

 That bit is Nigel, but it was still not charging.

 

  So I decided to have a look at the stator. Took off the engine cover etc. Undoing the screws holding the screen on, strange noises emanated from behind the flywheel. No need to guess what was making them.

 

Removing the fly wheel revealed a sorry stator and magnets in a right state. If you'll pardon the pun.

 

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  Bit of a mess and no wonder it wasn't charging. All is not lost though. A Raider 10 engine I rebuilt a while ago, has donated it's flywheel and stator.

 Tomorrow I'll reassemble things and hopefully all will be well.

 

 

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Sorry state or what?!  Looks like the general electrical melt down may account for the hidden corruption in the loom.

Anyway, back to business. I'm looking for some front wheel bearings for an old Allen National triple rider and I'm fairly sure that they are the same as were used in older Wheelhorses  and maybe Cub Cadets. They are made by a US company called Freeway from Cleveland, Ohio , with a reference of ASF-0-108-6 and are pressed  steel with a flange to locate them  in the hub.  The body of the bearing has a 1.3/8" outer and 3/4" inner. As yet I've not found a UK  supplier. The problem can be got round but if possible I would like to locate the correct items without having to run the gauntlet of UK customs, duty and vat etc. 

Any Thoughts?

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1 hour ago, Wristpin said:

Sorry state or what?!  Looks like the general electrical melt down may account for the hidden corruption in the loom.

Anyway, back to business. I'm looking for some front wheel bearings for an old Allen National triple rider and I'm fairly sure that they are the same as were used in older Wheelhorses  and maybe Cub Cadets. They are made by a US company called Freeway from Cleveland, Ohio , with a reference of ASF-0-108-6 and are pressed  steel with a flange to locate them  in the hub.  The body of the bearing has a 1.3/8" outer and 3/4" inner. As yet I've not found a UK  supplier. The problem can be got round but if possible I would like to locate the correct items without having to run the gauntlet of UK customs, duty and vat etc. 

Any Thoughts?

The flange bearings for Wheelhorse ( 100166 ) are Heim RF12-22-14AP 0.75 I’d 1.375 od and 0.438 width.

Try bearing boys on 01603 720713, i was going to ring them myself as i need some and they are very helpful 

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  Put everything back together this morning. Fired up the engines and tested for current from the replacement stator. Showing a nice 30amps. :)

 

  Checked across the battery terminals and did I see 14amps? No! :(  I think I'll have to get another rectifier or two.

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 Thanks for that, Angus. I've put that in my documents for future reference..

 

The rectifiers I have are the 15amp ones. The tractor is one of the early C-125s. 1981. My own C-125, '82 model, doesn't have that type of rectifier.

 

 I've ordered two like the one Chris put photo's on earlier. I should get them sometime next week. Hopefully a new rectifier will end the saga. :fingerscrossed:

 

One thing that's come out of this is, I now know a bit more about electrics than I did. :)

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  The rectifiers arrived last night much to my surprise. Not supposed to be here 'till Monday at the earliest.

   Fitted one this morning and all is well. Ammeter showing a nice charge. Am I a happy bunny or what. :D It's been a right pain, but I now know a little bit more about electrics.

 

  All that's left now is to flush the trans and refill with fresh oil, change engine oil and a little adjustment to the governor.

 

 

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  Trans flush and refilled. Also engine oil changed.

 

  When I came to adjust the governor, I found the arm was loose on the spindle. That was because the pinch bolt was not tight. When I came to tighten it, the nut fell off. Along with that end of the bolt. :o New bolt fitted and the governor works as it should.

 

  The tractor is already now to go to it's new home. Being collected some time next week.

 

  I'd like to thank those who have given me advice and support. Much appreciated. :tthankyou:

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44 minutes ago, Alan said:

Well done Norm. A big sigh of relief from you.   :thumbs:   Now, whats the next job. :poke:

 

Relief is an understatement, Alan.  Next job is to get the Black Horse ready for a ploughing match in March. :thumbs:

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